Wanting To Use Minwax Rattlecan Polyurethane

[erikbojerik]

Yes, the Minwax fast-dry polyurethane does impart a slight ambering. The water-based fast-dry "polycrylic" is even worse, and cloudy as well.

Doc has good advice about using the sanding sealer to fill the pores and build up a bit before using the poly, and Southpa has it exactly right about the number of coats and the cure time. In additino to the fingernail test, there's also the sniff test...if you can still smell it, its not done curing and don't try to finish-sand & buff until it stops stinking (can be a week or two depending on coat thickness and humidity).

When fine-sanding between sessions, it is very (...very...) important to make sure you scuff off every single bit of shine. If you leave ANY little shiny spots, the next coat of poly will not adhere and you'll get peeling at those places later. And they'll show up as "dents" when you buff.

Make sure the last coat is nice and thick. Then be very very careful with any finish-sanding at the end stages, if you sand through that last coat into the next one, you'll get rings that show up when you buff. The only cure is to scuff sand again and re-shoot the last coat.

One last thing about rattle cans; I got the best results when using only 75% of the can, the last 25% tends to have a lot more solvent in it and you can get very poor coverage (very thin) if you use the last bit in the can. I've also heard (but not tried) that you get better results by heating the cans in a pot of hot water before shooting.

[themortarman]

Hope the original posters don't mind me asking question in this thread?

Well I'm about done I ended up with 2 or three lines in the back of the neck the rest is almost like glass just waiting on the final buff.

The problems is these lines I have a applied enough material I hope that I can buff them out.

Is there a better way to try and get rid of these lines.

Should I wait a few days and see if I can sand them out then apply a couple more coats. I better wait at least a week?

I am amazed at how smooth the rest of the neck is. I could buff it by hand and I would be extremely happy all but the lines.

Edited September 20, 2005 by themortarman

[erikbojerik]

If the rest of the neck looks like glass, then I'm assuming that you haven't done any finish sanding since the last coat, right?

Without a pic it's hard to tell what the lines are from; if they are just places where the final coat sagged, making a bit of a "curtain" then you might be able to level them out and then buff. But only if the final coat is thick enough to knock 'em down without sanding thru into the next coat.

[themortarman]

I must have scratched the finish in one area when I scuffed up the surface. I didn't notice them until I misted the area with the clear. The more material I added the worst they got.

I'm going to give it a week and level the back of the headstock and scuff the rest being extremely careful and then hopefully call it good. Well after I add another coat or two. The front of the headstock is looking great and the neck also just the back of the headstock has some lines some will hide behind the tuners.

Thanks for all your input!!!

Edited September 20, 2005 by themortarman

[themortarman]

Well I changed my plan. I got extreme gas from looking around other sites at guitar necks Warmoth particularly and order a flamed finished neck. Still very pleased with the finish on the neck I am working on hopefully the lines will buff out in a week. fingers crossed.

Now new question. I wanted to add a waterslide decal. What would be the best way to do this. Would I have to add a finish to the whole neck?