b5111987 Posted August 24, 2005 Report Share Posted August 24, 2005 im building a new guitars witch is goin to be and semi hollow body in a ibanez shape but with an acoustic bridge now iv been told i will have problems getting it to inotate properly so i came up with this idea www.freewebs.com/guitarbridge will this work i know this is in another thread but i want answers on this alone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted August 24, 2005 Report Share Posted August 24, 2005 actually that's a very clever idea but an awful lot of trouble and has the potential for slipping and sliding around after you've played it for a while. if you're going to use an acoustic bridge why not get one with a compensated saddle and then get a couple of deep throat clamps where you can clamp it down, tune it up, check the intonation and move it around just like the one you're planning until you get it right and then glue it down? much less work and fewer opportunities for problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b5111987 Posted August 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2005 actually that's a very clever idea but an awful lot of trouble and has the potential for slipping and sliding around after you've played it for a while. if you're going to use an acoustic bridge why not get one with a compensated saddle and then get a couple of deep throat clamps where you can clamp it down, tune it up, check the intonation and move it around just like the one you're planning until you get it right and then glue it down? much less work and fewer opportunities for problems. ← yeh to stop movement is what the locking nuts are for im trying to think of a better why to clamp it cause if i dril a hole then need to move it slightly i carnt drill a hle right next to is also if i do and glue it down and then i change string gauge or something ill need to inotate again - or so it said in another thread about a similar guitar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 well, my suggestion about clamping it was just while you're finding the proper intonation..as far as whether or not changing strings will change the intonation i don't know. logic tells me that you can change strings on an acoustic without intonation problems so why would it be any different with and acoustic/electric. but like i said, i don't know for sure. i'm curious..what's your main reason for using an acoustic bridge instead of one of the many types of electric? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b5111987 Posted August 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 well, my suggestion about clamping it was just while you're finding the proper intonation..as far as whether or not changing strings will change the intonation i don't know. logic tells me that you can change strings on an acoustic without intonation problems so why would it be any different with and acoustic/electric. but like i said, i don't know for sure. i'm curious..what's your main reason for using an acoustic bridge instead of one of the many types of electric? ← cause im wanting acostic sounds without using a ghost saddle so it gonna be a semi acoustic with some kind of cuts but i hate f cuts so i dont jknow what to have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 i'm building a semi-hollow right now and i put in a french curved hole instead of an f-hole. google "french curve" and you'll see some nice shapes that might interest you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b5111987 Posted August 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 i'm building a semi-hollow right now and i put in a french curved hole instead of an f-hole. google "french curve" and you'll see some nice shapes that might interest you. ← yeh they look ok i was kinda maybe wanting a kind od tribal tattoo type thing or iv seen just circles instead of f cuts aswell witch will probably be ok aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 I don't think your going to get the "acoustic sounds" that you're looking for with merely a plastic or bone bridge and a semi-hollow body. Are you planning on using a piezo transducer under your bridge? That could potentially be a determining factor in wether or not this thing sounds "acoustic." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b5111987 Posted August 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 I don't think your going to get the "acoustic sounds" that you're looking for with merely a plastic or bone bridge and a semi-hollow body. Are you planning on using a piezo transducer under your bridge? That could potentially be a determining factor in wether or not this thing sounds "acoustic." ← yeh thats the idea i was just wanting to know wether the bridge idea would work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Quick version: plenty (and I mean lots) of acoustic guitars out there with non-adjustable bridges and saddles that intonate just fine. I'd leave off routing the saddle slot until you've got the guitar done, and can find the optimum position with a 'srap' piece of bone, plastic or metal (ie, temporary bridge per string, mark the place where it intonates properly, repeat for each string, then see where the saddle should go optimally. With a 1/8" wide saddle you've good a bit of leeway in adjusting intonation per string. The thinner your strings, the pickier intonation will likely be, so I'd say but at least 10s or 11s on there if you want an acoustic style saddled bridge.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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