Rickenbacker Measurments

[jamesj]

Anyone have any plans or any info on building a Rickenbacker 360 or 345 or similar? Maybe point me in the right direction. No music store down here has one.

I was going to build a Tele but everyone and their brother has one

Thanks

JJ

[jamesj]

Hey the 230 Glen Frey model Looks cool too! I'll build it if I can find info on it!

[TGwaH]

I'm actually working on a guitar heavily influenced by Ric. The Rickenbacker webpage is a huge resource. They have model measurements there. Here is the link to the Ric 360.

Edited August 26, 2005 by TGwaH

[jamesj]

I'm actually working on a guitar heavily influenced by Ric.  The Rickenbacker webpage is a huge resource.  They have model measurements there.  Here is the link to the  Ric 360.

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Thanks that helps alot.

Hmmm thats a pretty wide one...I did not realize they were that wide. By my figures 15 wide so that would be 18 3/4 tall for the body. Does that sound right?

I took a "straight on" pic I found on the net and streched it to 15 wide and 39 3/4 tall then "figured" the measurements. one thing though.... does overall length include the strap button on the bottom?

[TGwaH]

It might be 18 3/4 inches from the longest point on the guitar body. However, it looks like it would be 15 inches from where the fret board meets the body. But, that doesn't take into account the length of the headstock. I had figured this out, using the 360/12 I'll see if I still have my original calculations laying about. They won't be the same numbers, but pretty close.

If you wanted to make an exact Ric clone you'll probably have some trouble. Rickenbacker is getting pretty sticky when it comes to selling certain parts. Pups can be found with relative ease (if you're in Canada Long and McQuade in the US music123.com) and most Ric parts can be found on Rickenbacker's own website. However, to prevent forgery they will no longer sell a Ric name plate or the 'R' tailpiece unless you've got an old one or piece of an old one you can send in to prove that you own a Ric.

Hope this helps, eh?

Cheers

Jonathan

Edited August 26, 2005 by TGwaH

[Mickguard]

I'm getting started on my own Ric clone --I'm basing mine on a 350...right now I'm drawing out the plans (I have the body from the 350 copy I bought to trace)

I have a few questions --the main one right now is: am I correct in assuming the 350 does not have any neck angle, since it's flying so high above the body?

I'm planning on using either an old Badass with string savers or a new Wilkinson that I'd bought for another project (but that one has to wait until I find the neck I want).

I also plan on sinking the toasters into the face of the body a bit, so the neck doesn't have to be THAT high above the body. Just a wee little bit, enough to sink the base plates.

Pics soon, once I get started.

[TGwaH]

I also plan on sinking the toasters into the face of the body a bit, so the neck doesn't have to be THAT high above the body. Just a wee little bit, enough to sink the base plates.

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If you did that, you'd need to put a ring around the pickup. Otherwise it have a godawful look to it. It'd also have to be a bi-level route to account for those massive pole pieces. Have you seen them? Compared to other pole pieces they're huge!

Idch, please tell me you're going to paint it black. I don't think John would allow it any other way.

Edited September 19, 2005 by TGwaH

[Mickguard]

I also plan on sinking the toasters into the face of the body a bit, so the neck doesn't have to be THAT high above the body. Just a wee little bit, enough to sink the base plates.

←

If you did that, you'd need to put a ring around the pickup. Otherwise it have a godawful look to it. It'd also have to be a bi-level route to account for those massive pole pieces. Have you seen them? Compared to other pole pieces they're huge!

Idch, please tell me you're going to paint it black. I don't think John would allow it any other way.

←

I nixed the idea of sinking the pups...decided that it would ruin the look of the guitar.

As for color...the body's going to be a one piece --don't know exactly what the species is, but it's perty. So I'm going to want to do a transparent color --probably black...but maybe red...I've got some scrap to test the finishes on.

Rickenbacker's parts are actually pretty reasonably priced compared to other sources...although three toasters will set you back $300!

I've got my own logo though --anyone know where I can get it printed onto plastic?

[TGwaH]

I nixed the idea of sinking the pups...decided that it would ruin the look of the guitar.

As for color...the body's going to be a one piece --don't know exactly what the species is, but it's perty. So I'm going to want to do a transparent color --probably black...but maybe red...I've got some scrap to test the finishes on.

Rickenbacker's parts are actually pretty reasonably priced compared to other sources...although three toasters will set you back $300!

I've got my own logo though --anyone know where I can get it printed onto plastic?

←

I don't know if you want to take this route, but Long and McQuade in Canada carries the Ric toasters for $80CDN. Don't know if it'll be worth your while with shipping, but the exchange rate is on your side.

A transparent black would be a cool little finish. So would red. I'm actually going to be attemping a stained burst finish from white to red. Knowing my luck I'll end up with a pink guitar.

It looks like this thread is starting to become the unofficial Ricenbacker question thread. I do have a question about bridges. I ended up settling on the 12 string Ric bridge because I couldn't find any reasonably priced 12 string TOM's and I didn't wanna go with the stew mac hardtail. The bridge seen here has 4 screws, and two holes on either side of the saddles. Now, to me it looks like the two holes are to mount the bridge to the body, while the four screws are to adjust for height etc. However, what gets me to scratching the old noodle is this -- if those 4 screws adjust against the wood, wouldn't the screws dig into the body at some point? Is there supposed to be a plate of somesort under the bridge? Or am I just looking at this all wrong?

[Mickguard]

Well, on my clone, the bridge rests on a steel plate, yeah. The steel plate gets screwed into the body, but the bridge just rested on the plate.

It would make sense though to screw the bridge to the plate once you've set your action.

Maybe they include the plate and they're just not showing it?

[TGwaH]

Maybe they include the plate and they're just not showing it?

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I don't think so, because when my bridge came it was just a bridge no plate included. I suppose any old piece of metal would suffice. I'll have to see what I've got kicking around.

[thegarehanman]

Idch, I believe UniversalJems sells several 12 string TOM bridges for a reasonable price.

[TGwaH]

I was seriously considering ordering from Brian's site. But then I had to consider in the exchange rates etc. A 12 string TOM for $71.25USD versus Ric 12 string for $80CDN. Then I'd have duty and international shipping on top of that, plus I'd have to pay GST for whatever reason. That last one always baffles me.

[Mickguard]

Idch, I believe UniversalJems sells several 12 string TOM bridges for a reasonable price.

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I don't need that...though one day I might be tempted to go for a 12-string...that's one type of guitar I don't have.

I'm using a Badass on mine...because it's here, mostly. But also because it's already kitted out with String Savers.

I realize Rickenbacker has been using that bridge of theirs for quite some time, but I don't like it!