mledbetter Posted August 29, 2005 Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 I am absolutely 100% unhappy with my first binding job. My first route wasn't quite even and i fixed it up with a second pass (on another day using a different setup), but the second pass was a hair shallower than the first so I have a ledge. Seemed miniscule, however it has created a gap all the way around. bottom line, it lokes like crap and i can't remove it as it will pull big chunks of wood out with it. Could I just route it back out again? I know binding can catch on fire but I wondered if anyone has evver routed binding before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted August 29, 2005 Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 I've never done it, but I'd say give it a shot. I've lit celluloid before (assuming that's what you have, because stewmac doesn't even sell it anymore), and it didn't explode or anything. Just have something on hand to put a small fire out just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mledbetter Posted August 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 well i bought it from stewmac, so it's probably not celluloid. I have a couple rolls of celluloid stuff but it was too narrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted August 29, 2005 Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 I can't answer your question about routing off binding. I had a similar problem and took this approach. I recently removed binding that I had glued using CA glue. I used the CA remover and applied it to the edges and gently pressured it off bit by bit. It took a while and I did pull off a couple of very small pieces of the body - splinters really. Then I routed out the channel to make it slightly larger and to clean it up. I reinstalled the binding although this time making it slightly thicker to match the channel. I was laminating the binding so I could control the thickness to some extent. For the tear out, I filled it using a wood putty bought from StewMac. The finish is going to be an opaque finish so this was ok for me. May not work in your application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted August 29, 2005 Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 Yes, you can route it off. It's more messy than routing wood, since it fires static charge plastic chips everywhere, which the cling to whatever they land on so good dust extraction is advisable. You may also bust out big chunks of binding in sections a few inches long, but I've never had it pull out wood or cause chipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted August 29, 2005 Report Share Posted August 29, 2005 There's a couple of things on frets.com where he scores the finish with a razor blade and then prys the binding away with a palette knife so it can be reglued. Heres one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltonL Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 Even if you decide on routing, I would score it with a thin blade all the way around before you start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 I can't remeber if they still do, but lmi sold a cutter that fit a dremel for undercutting the binding to remove another point of adhesion. But with care, a carbide disk would POSSIBLY have the same results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Yes, you can route it off. It's more messy than routing wood, since it fires static charge plastic chips everywhere, which the cling to whatever they land on so good dust extraction is advisable. You may also bust out big chunks of binding in sections a few inches long, but I've never had it pull out wood or cause chipping. ← Cool. Thanks Setch. Good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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