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I currently own a schecter A - 7 seven string guitar and the neck on it has a bow which I just cant seem to level out - hence the action is aweful.

Iam currently in a position to buy a ibanez Ibanez RG 7620 Wizard 7 String neck but I know the neck screw patter doesnt match that of my schecter.

My schecter has inline screws that resemble a square when looked at from above, and I know the ibanez has an offset screw for the all access neck joint.

Providing I also get a back plate for this neck would it feasible to drill a new neck hole

in my schecters body to accomidate this neck, or would this cause structual issue concerning the neck joint?

Also I know the neck is alot thinner then my schecters neck so iam unsure if the neck

would fit correctly to the guitar. Can anyone shed any light on these problems so I can get back to playing my guitar!!

Regards Mike

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Welcome to the forum Michael. According to specs the Schecter 7 strings use a 26.5" scale, while the RG7620 uses a 25.5" scale, so you end up being off by an inch on scale. Even the RG XL necks would be off, as they are a 27" scale neck. Your best bet is to find another Schecter neck or make your own. I've seen Schecters go insanely cheap online.

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

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Welcome to the forum Michael.  According to specs the Schecter 7 strings use a 26.5" scale, while the RG7620 uses a 25.5" scale, so you end up being off by an inch on scale.  Even the RG XL necks would be off, as they are a 27" scale neck.  Your best bet is to find another Schecter neck or make your own.  I've seen Schecters go insanely cheap online.

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Iam assuming changing to a shorter or longer neck would affect my intonation and perhaps my tuning? Would it really sound a whole lot differant as I was looking to get a ibanez neck because of the dual truss rod and the the wizard thinness of the neck?

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First of all, an ibanez neck doesn't have a dual truss rod. Secondly, you won't be able to tune the guitar period if they are different scale lengths. Intonation will be out by that inch difference. So, the frets will all be in the wrong location.

If your schecter neck has a bad back bow, it might be able to be pressed out and then a fret level done. It's a long process, but usually works well. If it has a front bow, the truss rod should be able to pull it out, but you still may require a fretlevel if it's buzzing. If you're not comfortable with doing that yourself take it to a good tech. It might cost more than putting an ibanez neck on, but at least you'll have a neck that works. Schecters are big beefy necks, if you want a thinner neck, recarve the schecter neck to be thinner. If you do that, it may even allow the front bow to come out with truss rod and string tension once the neck is a little thinner.

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Iam assuming changing to a shorter or longer neck  would affect my intonation and perhaps my tuning?

Yes, it would affect intonation. It could be done, but it would be a lot of work and the results might be less than stellar. As you noted, the neck depth is probably going to be different, as is the scale of the body to the neck. So, the neck pocket would need to be filled and rerouted, and I'm not sure if that's such a good idea.

Would it really sound a whole lot differant as I was looking to get a ibanez neck because of the dual truss rod and the the wizard thinness of the neck?

My advice is get the Schecter fixed and buy an Ibanez 7 string if that's what you want. If it's bowing and adjusting the truss rod won't fix it, it's likely that the truss rod is broken or installed improperly from the factory. Also, LGM knows his stuff, and I'd follow what he suggests.

And not knowing your skill level with guitar setups, is it possible that there's user error?

Have you had a pro repairman or luthier look at it?

Was the neck ever straight?

Do you happen to have warranty coverage on the guitar?

Got pics?

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

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The truss rod doesn't necessarily have to be broken or not working, if it's a fatal backbow, the truss rod could simply be loose already and the neck is just plain bowed. That's a downside to not having a dual action truss rod (different than dual truss rods, but Ibanez doesn't have either) So it may need to be pressed out with pressure and heat, I've had to do this to a few necks for people, works well in the end, but does take a couple weeks to do properly.

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LGM knows his stuff, and I'd follow what he suggests.

And not knowing your skill level with guitar setups, is it possible that there's user error? 

Have you had a pro repairman or luthier look at it? 

Was the neck ever straight? 

Do you happen to have warranty coverage on the guitar?

Got pics?

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I fully respect LGM and you are right my skill level etc is highly questionable - but on the other hand Iam fed up paying guitar shops extortionate amounts of money

to do half assed jobs like the shop who install my EMGs into my schecter in the worst fashion ever , so I would really like to get some expertise doing work on my guitar myself. but enough moaning.....

Basically my schecter suffers from having an uneven action, where the strings are quite some distance from the fret board at the the 20th fret and far too close at the 1st fret. Ive looked at the neck time and time again and it appears to have a

slight bow in it which causes this. Altho Iam starting to wonder if this bow is just some trick on the eye and the neck is really straight as I have adjusted the truss rod and been unable to resolve this. Originally I thought the action problem was due to the neck joint being slightly uneven and tried to shim it accordingly....

BUT this went from band to worse, it didnt solve the issue and now I have some ever so slight movement of the neck in the joint and it wont tighten anymore.

So I was thinking gettng a new neck and hoping for the best!

Altho my guitar building/modifiying experiance is very limited, I do have a good back ground in mechanical engieering and have built mountain bikes frames in the past so Iam confident in learning some new skills to solve this. If I post some pictures does anybody think they can help me with this one?

Building a guitar is on my list for the near future but I have to fix this first.

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Basically my schecter suffers from having an uneven action, where the strings are quite some distance from the fret board at the the 20th fret and far too close at the 1st fret. Ive looked at the neck time and time again and it appears to have a

slight bow in it which causes this. Altho Iam starting to wonder if this bow is just some trick on the eye and the neck is really straight as I have adjusted the truss rod and been unable to resolve this. Originally I thought the action problem was due to the neck joint being slightly uneven and tried to shim it accordingly....

BUT this went from band to worse, it didnt solve the issue and now I have some ever so slight movement of the neck in the joint and it wont tighten anymore.

So I was thinking gettng a new neck and hoping for the best!

Before wasting money on a new neck you should check the old neck properly first!!!! Take a straightedge to check if it is possible to adjust the neck to be flat and to check what influences turning the trussrod has on the neck. Then you know if the rod is still working. If thats the case and you can get the neck to be flat, you have to set the bridge height correctly. If that still does not help you either have a nut with slots that run too deep or you need a fret levelling. In any case it would be a good idea to read the tutorials on the main page that deal with properly setting up the action and intonation of a guitar.

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Before wasting money on a new neck you should check the old neck properly first!!!! Take a straightedge to check if it is possible to adjust the neck to be flat and to check what influences turning the trussrod has on the neck. Then you know if the rod is still working. If thats the case and you can get the neck to be flat, you have to set the bridge height correctly. If that still does not help you either have a nut with slots that run too deep or you need a fret levelling. In any case it would be a good idea to read the tutorials on the main page that deal with properly setting up the action and intonation of a guitar.

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I fully respect LGM and you are right my skill level etc is highly questionable - but on the other hand Iam fed up paying guitar shops extortionate amounts of money

to do half assed jobs like the shop who install my EMGs into my schecter in the worst fashion ever , so I would really like to get some expertise doing work on my guitar myself. but enough moaning.....

Thank you for the respect, that is always appreciated.

To start with, it's exorbitant :D hehe, had to throw that in :D

Anyway, if a shop did a poor job installing something, or doing work, take it back, demand it be done correctly or you want your money back. There are a million bad shops and techs out there who will NEVER learn unless they are forced to redo it until correct.

Basically my schecter suffers from having an uneven action, where the strings are quite some distance from the fret board at the the 20th fret and far too close at the 1st fret.

Ok, first issue here, as I'm sure you know, your action has to be higher in the upper register than the lower. At the 20th fret you should have a string height of 1.5mm to 2mm (.059" - .079") from the crown of the fret to the bottom of the string. At the first fret you should have about .017mm (.007")from the crown of the fret to the bottom of the string. If your action is to high, you need to lower the bridge, however, in doing this, if your action is already to low at the 1st fret (and you are getting buzzing) you will need to raise the nut with a shim. If this is a lock nut, it is very easy, simply loosen the nut from the neck, and cut a shim from an aluminum pop can to fit under it, you can use business cards as well to cut the shim from. Keep in mind that the nut height will ONLY affect the action on the 1st fret (open string) since after you have a note fretted, any buzzing will need to be dealt with by the bridge action since the nut has effectively become whatever fret you have the string pressed against. Once you have the action at the nut set, try setting your bridge to give you the action you want in the higher register. BUT!!!!!! first, you need to make sure the neck bow is correct, so..............

Ive looked at the neck time and time again and it appears to have a

slight bow in it which causes this. Altho Iam starting to wonder if this bow is just some trick on the eye and the neck is really straight as I have adjusted the truss rod and been unable to resolve this.

You want some front bow in the neck. To check your front bow, press down the G string at the 1st fret, and the 12th fret, around the 5th or 6th fret, you want to see a slight gap between the string and the fret, about .004" or approximately the thickness of a sheet of construction paper. This gives your strings some extra neck relief when you are fretting notes. Dead flat will almost ALWAYS buzz, and back bow will fret out and buzz everywhere. Once you have the neck set to the correct front bow, check that gap on all the strings by fretting each one the same way, at the 1st and 12th. If you have less gap on the treble side than the bass side or vice versa, your neck probably has a slight twist, but even still, as long as there is a bit of a gap (relief) you're ok.

Originally I thought the action problem was due to the neck joint being slightly uneven and tried to shim it accordingly....

BUT this went from band to worse, it didnt solve the issue and now I have some ever so slight movement of the neck in the joint and it wont tighten anymore.

So I was thinking gettng a new neck and hoping for the best!

Neck joint being uneven can certainly cause issues, but shouldn't cause any issues with the bow of the neck or the action. Where it will cause bigger issues is in movement of the neck. Shims in the neck typically are only to increase or decrease the rake of the neck (amount it angles forwards or backwards) for example, if you have brutally high action, and the bridge is as low as it can go, you want to shim the neck to tilt backwards more, this will bring the strings closer to the fretboard and allow you to raise the bridge for more adjustment. If the action is to low and the bridge is uncomfortably high, shim the neck foward to allow the bridge to be lowered into the body more. If your neck is moving side to side, you may want to put some shims in the actual neck pocket itself to make it fit tighter, if the pocket itself is uneven, the neck isn't seating well and there will be high points that it sits on, these will cause it to move badly. If it is shifting to much, you can cut a shim the full size of the neck pocket out of 150 grit sandpaper, glue it or use double sided tape, into the neck pocket, then put the neck on and tighten it, the grit side of the sand paper will bite into the heel of the neck and help to hold it in place. I would only do this as a last resort though, first I would try to determine what is uneven in the pocket and see if some slight sanding or filing will flatten it out. If the neck pocket is uneven, a new neck won't change anything.

Altho my guitar building/modifiying experiance is very limited, I do have a good back ground in mechanical engieering and have built mountain bikes frames in the past so Iam confident in learning some new skills to solve this.  If I post some pictures does anybody think they can help me with this one?

Building a guitar is on my list for the near future but I have to fix this first.

If the things I've suggested above don't help, then it's likely that your frets are uneven, this will require a levelling and dressing. That is more difficult and something definitely worth taking to a qualified tech to do if you've never done it before and are passionate about the guitar in question. I don't like steel yardsticks, I've seen to many of them that are bowed themselves along the thin edge, I like the hardened stainless straightedges, with ground edges. But, in a pinch, you can check the frets for level with a yard stick (I may be thinking of a different type than godblesstexas is talking about, when I think of a yard stick, I think of those aluminum ones you see in classrooms. I know you can buy a 24" stainless steel ruler though, and those have pretty good edges on them.

Anyway, try these things and let us know how it goes.

Jeremy

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If the things I've suggested above don't help, then it's likely that your frets are uneven, this will require a levelling and dressing. That is more difficult and something definitely worth taking to a qualified tech to do if you've never done it before and are passionate about the guitar in question. I don't like steel yardsticks, I've seen to many of them that are bowed themselves along the thin edge, I like the hardened stainless straightedges, with ground edges. But, in a pinch, you can check the frets for level with a yard stick (I may be thinking of a different type than godblesstexas is talking about, when I think of a yard stick, I think of those aluminum ones you see in classrooms. I know you can buy a 24" stainless steel ruler though, and those have pretty good edges on them.

Anyway, try these things and let us know how it goes.

Jeremy

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Is there a reason for my guitar having wider and taller frets then a normal 6 string? I know there are tutorials on fretting and fret leveling etc - but how hard is this to do for some 1 like me? Thanks again Michael

Different companies use different fretwire....it's just a matter of taste....I bet your frets are perfecly okay, but need a proper levelling....properly levelling frets is nealry considered an art form, but is not impossible if you are willing to put in the work and patience, however it's really no easy task. I recommend letting a pro do it....but did you try improving the action by adjusting the bridge yet?

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Different companies use different fretwire....it's just a matter of taste....I bet your frets are perfecly okay, but need a proper levelling....properly levelling frets is nealry considered an art form, but is not impossible if you are willing to put in the work and patience, however it's really no easy task. I recommend letting a pro do it....but did you try improving the action by adjusting the bridge yet?

I have adjusted the bridge and I have levelled so the strings run parallel to the fret board, its just those damn frets - i have read a tutorial on levelling and it looks like a long job - but I think it may just be worth it.

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