Mickguard Posted September 16, 2005 Report Share Posted September 16, 2005 I'm getting started on a guitar 'inspired by' the Rickenbacker 350. For this project, I want to use a really nice old mahogany neck that I 'rescued' from a Melody Maker copy...but the neck is a bolt on, and the only way this guitar will work will be if I convert the bolt on to a set neck. I'm hoping you all can comment on the ideas --and offer suggestions for getting a nice solid joint. Here's the most basic idea (bear with me, tonight was the first time I ever worked with Autocad--note, the drawings are not to scale, I'm not ready for that yet): Since I'll be making the body, I plan to extend a "shelf" for the neck--the fat Rick-type heel will be part of the body extension, not the neck. I plan to narrow the heel of the neck into a tenon (you can see that on the smaller inserted drawing) --probably following the existing taper on the neck. Right now I'm thinking I can take 5 mm off of each side (the neck is 54 mm at the body end of the heel, 50 mm at the neck-end of the heel, so that should leave plenty surrounding the trussrod, if that goes all the way to the heel). The narrow heel will fit into the extension of the body--which itself with be tapered to match the original heel (I might make it slightly wider). The height of the tenon and the walls of the shelf are indicated by the dashed line. As you can see, the design is complicated by those toaster pickups --the neck is set very high off the body in order to clear them. But this means that the neck isn't set very deep into the body at all. As a concession, I can set the heel itself further into the body a bit--5 to 10 mm at most. I'll also be sloping the sides of the shelf into the body, mainly because it softens the angle for the router. But that will provide a lot more meat to the sides of the joint (I'll prepare a drawing of a top-view soon) I thought about gluing on an extension to the heel--I could make it deeper and also added a tenon--but it doesn't make much sense to do that, since glue's glue...either I glue the neck directly to the body, or glue it to an extension which then glues to the body, it's pretty much the same, right? The other idea would be to sink the toasters into the surface of the body, at least to the depth of the base plates (about 4 or 5 mm with the little rubber feet). That would allow me to lower the neck deeper into the body (and also lower the bridge, but that's a different issue). I'd prefer not to do this though, I like the look of those surface-mounted toasters. So the main question is: will there be enough support to the joint if I go with the idea in the drawing? Any other ideas about improving the solidity? Oh, a final word...I actually think I'm being a little overcautious about this...I keep looking at my Melody Maker's neck joint --it has no tenon, very little wood beneath the joint (although it is sunk deeper into the body than my design). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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