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Metal Pickguards And P90s


Mickguard

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Yes, but that wouldn't be real rust, would it? Unless I really rubbed iron in to the stainless steel...hmm, it's definitely worth experimenting.

The secret to the rust I have here is that I'd started on this pickguard idea a few months back, set the metal aside to rust...then got involved with another idea (leather pickguard) then stumbed on the wood pickguard (mistake, it was really uncomfortable to play with...besides, I could have made one myself).

In the meantime, the rust took off quite nicely. Then I sprinkled some sea salt on there and my son and I took turns urinating on it....that got the rust going right quick!

Anyway, I like the guard so much, I just decided to ditch the P90....luckily I have an old broken pickup from the 60s here, the pole pieces on that match the holes exactly...so I can keep the cool look of those.

I have to figure out what to do with the mini-switch I installed.

In the meantime, I'm getting started on a P90 guitar...

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I'm sorry, I misunderstood - you're doing the stealth thing with the P90! Yeah, that'll never work - you've got a magnetic shield between the pickup and the strings! If you cut a hole for the P90, your problems will probably disappear magically, but the field runs the length of the coil/magnet, so cutting holes for the polepieces is useless.

I'm assuming you're going for a Trussart look on that pickguard - FWIW, bronze patinates very nicely when exposed to the elements.

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I'm sorry, I misunderstood - you're doing the stealth thing with the P90! Yeah, that'll never work - you've got a magnetic shield between the pickup and the strings! If you cut a hole for the P90, your problems will probably disappear magically, but the field runs the length of the coil/magnet, so cutting holes for the polepieces is useless.

I'm assuming you're going for a Trussart look on that pickguard - FWIW, bronze patinates very nicely when exposed to the elements.

The nice thing about Tele pickguards is you can make a million of them, they're easy to change...I have an old stainless steel sink lying around here, I'm going to cut that up next...and I'm going to look around for some copper and bronze sheets, see what I can come up with...

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Well, I wouldn't use a cutting torch, just a simple propane torch to "discolor" it. The oxidated look is really cool on copper too. You have patches that aren't oxidated, parts that are white, parts that are green, parts that are blue. If you do oxidize it, lay paper towels moistened with vinegar on it. That allows air to get to it, but still puts the basic vinegar in constant contact with it. I say combine both the heating and oxidizing; it could turn out really unique.

peace,

russ

Edit: Also, once you get it looking the way you want it to, I'd spray the whole thing with flat laquer or something simular to make sure it stays the way you want it to look.

Edited by thegarehanman
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If its rust you are after you may want to look into some model railroad products. Something like this: Rustall With something like that you could even use a plastic pickguard. I've used it on trains, and it looks great, but I'm not sure how it would look on a large area.

george

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I realize this P-90 cancellation story is over, but no one mentioned that if the middle P-90 was reverse polarity from either of the other two pickups, then the pickguard could have been magnetized "north" while the P-90 was magnetized "south". With the pole pieces coming through like that, you had a south magnet poles with north magnetism all around them. You may have been simply cancelling out your magnetic field. Even if the neck and bridge were RP from eachother, they are far enough away, and protruding enough to be far less affected. And the large holes took the magnetic guard over 1/4" away from the magnet source on all sides. While the P-90 was in almost direct contact with the guard.

Or it's posible that the whole guard was sucking the magnetic power from the P-90, weakening it and spreading it out so far that it would give you almost nothing due to phase cancellations and the overall reduction in pull.

Edited by frank falbo
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