possum1284 Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 im really dont want to use the denaturerated alchol to dissolve the shellac i read pure alchol can be used instead alchol used. the closest i can find is 190 proof is this the right stuff? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 You'd be wasting your money I reckon, alot of restoration companies sell "shellac reducer" which is a custom mix and much cheaper. Or just use straight meths(try to get it without dyes or other impurities even if you are doing colour coats with it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum1284 Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 im not concerned about the price. denaturated has harmful chemicals in while the pure does not. would that alchol work though? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 (edited) Can't see why it wont. Alcohol is alcohol really, I just dont think food grade is necessary. Edit: is this for a natural/stained finish, or are you doing colour coats, because I saw in your other thread that you wanted a grain filler, I haven't tried it myself, but a few people have said you can put talc in to your mix, it should give a silky smooth finish, I'm just not sure on how it looks under a clear coat though. Could be good to test on some scrap though, I'd do it myself but I've got no open grained scrap handy. Edited October 25, 2005 by Mr Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum1284 Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 talc is worse for ya then epoxy. im using pumice as my grain filler. im gonna do a color stain unerneath the shellac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 (edited) Alcohol is alcohol, but the stuff used to denature it is grade-A nasty. And Meths? Even worse. Those are seriously bad solvents, so unless you protect your skin (it goes right through) and lungs (respirator) when using, grain alcohol is infinitely safer. For french polishing itself, fumes aren't really a big issue, though. When prepping flakes they can be. The thing with solvents is this: don't think 'oh, I'm just a home user, I don't get exposed that much, I don't need protection'. Nerve degeneration, potential blindness, various other degenerative and irreversible conditions? Not fun. You know those health and safety laws? For people that use these nasties day in day out with proper protection? Basically means that one home user being a touch sloppy about protecting himself from these carcinogenic nightmares of chemicals has an exposure level many, many times that of someone who works with the stuff daily, but with proper protection, from a single, one-time use. And frankly, protective gear is far too cheap to be without. Edited October 26, 2005 by mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum1284 Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Alcohol is alcohol, but the stuff used to denature it is grade-A nasty. And Meths? Even worse. Those are seriously bad solvents, so unless you protect your skin (it goes right through) and lungs (respirator) when using, grain alcohol is infinitely safer. For french polishing itself, fumes aren't really a big issue, though. When prepping flakes they can be. The thing with solvents is this: don't think 'oh, I'm just a home user, I don't get exposed that much, I don't need protection'. Nerve degeneration, potential blindness, various other degenerative and irreversible conditions? Not fun. You know those health and safety laws? For people that use these nasties day in day out with proper protection? Basically means that one home user being a touch sloppy about protecting himself from these carcinogenic nightmares of chemicals has an exposure level many, many times that of someone who works with the stuff daily, but with proper protection, from a single, one-time use. And frankly, protective gear is far too cheap to be without. ← thats kind what i was thinking. so the natural food grade grain alchol is the best bet then. on another note is it ok to put shellac over ktm9? same question applies to minwax wipe sealer/ finish ,it is mostly sanded off though. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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