Different Way Of Doing A Neck Angle.

[Gemm012]

I was thinking about a possible alternate way of doing the neck angle for a guitar with a bolt on neck and tune o matic bridge set-up. Would it work if I routed the neck pocket flat, and put the angle on the end of the neck instead? I hope you know what I mean. While I have a thread open, I may as well ask if anyone knows of any quality 7 string tune o matic bridge systems. Thanks.

Galen.

[Black Mariah]

It's been done. I'm not sure what the reasoning behind not doing that all the time is. I GUESS it's purely aesthetic.

Edited November 5, 2005 by Black Mariah

[GuitarGuy]

Problem is that the butt end of the neck will need to be contoured as well as not to leave a gap when it tilts outward. This is difficult to get right. Not to say it cant be done. It is just easier to use a template and route the pocket at the right angle

[rokeros]

Problem is that the butt end of the neck will need to be contoured as well as not to leave a gap when it tilts outward. This is difficult to get right. Not to say it cant be done. It is just easier to use a template and route the pocket at the right angle

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Another thing to add on is that if your bolt on is already made and ready to install, then adding an angle to the heel and the butt will alter the angle in which the screw holes lay in the neck and therefore screws can't go in straight. I am doing the same thing also on my current project. bolt on wth TOM. I would advise just milling a recess for the TOM. its not difficult and it saves alot of time.

Ash HK

Edited November 5, 2005 by rokeros

[stvenator]

If you recess the bridge, angling the neck is unessesary???

[bassman]

"If you recess the bridge, angling the neck is unessesary???"

Sometimes, this is true. The main goal is to be able to achieve your intended string action. A full scale drawing (side of the guitar perspective) will inform you of correct orientation of the different planes of the bridge and the neck.

You basically want the string laying either directly on top of the frets or just above them when the bridge and or saddles have been fully lowered. If this is accomplished by either angling the neck pocket, recessing the bridge or both, then you should be able to raise the strings to your desired string action.

[Gemm012]

I thnk it may just be better to put the correct angle in the neck pocket instead of on the neck. If I recessed the bridge I wouldn't be able to use a stop tailpiece is the thing about that. I don't think I could at least to get the right tension. Does anyone know about quality 7 string tune o matics?

Galen

[Guitarfrenzy]

I thnk it may just be better to put the correct angle in the neck pocket instead of on the neck. If I recessed the bridge I wouldn't be able to use a stop tailpiece is the thing about that. I don't think I could at least to get the right tension. Does anyone know about quality 7 string tune o matics?

Galen

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There is no better way, it's using a method that works for you. I have cut the neck pocket at an angle on some builds, and I've cut the neck heel with the angle on other builds, both ways work great if you plan everything out. Both ways have their advantages. Check out this link to determine your angle, and neck taper.

How To Determine A Neck Angle - Perry

I'm sorry to say I can't comment on the quality of the 7 string TOM's, I've never used one before. I'm sure someone else can help on this.

[Duff Beer Man]

Do you guys cut ur angles with routers? or by like sanding/files?

[Guitarfrenzy]

Do you guys cut ur angles with routers? or by like sanding/files?

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If I cut the angle in the neck pocket it's done with a router. If I'm angling the heel I cut it with a bandsaw and use a belt sander to smooth it out. Whatever works for you though. The end of the heel I will sometimes angle the table on my small belt sander and sand until it's right. Always draw the angles out plainly on both sides of the heel area so you can make sure your not getting off and check it while you work.

[Duff Beer Man]

I dont want to open a new post for this but ive always wondered if ive understood this correctly. The bridge height means how far the bridge sits off the guitar when the threaded posts are down as far as they can go right? So that means like a recessed floyd would have no bridge height because it sits flush with the guitar?

[Duff Beer Man]

anyone?

[brian d]

I dont want to open a new post for this but ive always wondered if ive understood this correctly. The bridge height means how far the bridge sits off the guitar when the threaded posts are down as far as they can go right?

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I believe that the bridge height is the distance from the top of the guitar to the top of the saddle when the threaded posts are screwed down to a height that gives the appropriate action. When working out a design, that would mean screwed down to a position that you can later adjust the action either up or down....so you wouldn't want them screwed down all the way. (I'm thinking of a TOM here....I'm not familiar with the set-up of Floyds).

Brian.

Edited November 8, 2005 by brian d

[Guest AlexVDL]

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[Guitarfrenzy]

Great illustration Alex. There are multiple ways of getting the correct angle for the neck, and all things must be considered into the equation (for instance: bridge height, how high the neck sits above the body joint end, etc.) Everything must be thought about beforehand, which is why you should never build a guitar until you have all your hardware to get the correct measurements on everything.

[Duff Beer Man]

Awsome illistration, helped me a lot, although i am still kinda confussed on how to determine the bridge hegith, also while we are on the subject of bridges what are they angled?