mikhailgtrski Posted November 9, 2005 Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 Hi all, After hours and hours of cutting and routing and fitting (and a 4-month hiatus) I'm finally ready to glue and level my vine inlay. I practiced and took my time routing and was able to minimize the gaps for the most part. Just in case, though, I did a gap filling experiment (on scrap) with rosewood dust and CA... it really doesn't look any better than using the CA alone. The dust turns much darker than the surrounding rosewood (most of you probably already knew this, but this stuff is all new to me ). This just confirms what Craig Lavin and Larry Robinson say - if it's rosewood keep your routing tight 'cause there's no good way to fill big gaps and have it look nice. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDust_Junkie Posted November 10, 2005 Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 On my first build, I had a small gap in about a 1"portion of the joint between the Rosewood fretboard and the Maple neck. I mixed some of the Rosewood dust and just regular Titebond glue to make a "filler paste", and I was very pleased with the results of that. After applying the glue, letting it cure for several days, and sanding, you can't tell that small little gap was ever there. You might want to try some experimenting on scrap wood and see if that would work for you. The only inlaying I have done so far is simple 1/4" Abalone dots and I used a Forstner bit to drill those holes and there was no gap at all, so I am not one to give reliable advice of inlay methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted November 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 So the Titebond didn't darken the rosewood dust? I think I kept my gaps small enough to look fine with just the CA... but your idea is worth a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDust_Junkie Posted November 10, 2005 Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 Actually, when I mixed the Titebond with the Rosewood dust, the paste was lighter than the Rosewood, but it dried to the same color as the Rosewood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorn Posted November 10, 2005 Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 Try "cutting" the rosewood dust with fine maple dust. This will result in a lighter filler once mixed with glue. I mix a 70% rosewood to 30% maple ratio, that's ideal for average colored rosewood and even koa. Good luck. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 This reminds me of something Jeremy (LGM) mentioned a while ago. He said he had a way to hide gaps regardless of the type of wood. At the time, he didn't want to say what method/materials he used. Did he ever share that info or is it still a secret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 Try "cutting" the rosewood dust with fine maple dust. This will result in a lighter filler once mixed with glue. I mix a 70% rosewood to 30% maple ratio, that's ideal for average colored rosewood and even koa. Good luck. Ron ← I've thought about that before, but kinda thought, nooo.. that won't work.. so I never tried to mix different colored wood to get a closer match. Thanks for the tip bro, I'll definitely give it a try next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 I want to use this technique to do some inlay work entirely with purpleheart filler paste on a rosewood fretboard. will this work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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