zionstrat Posted November 16, 2005 Report Posted November 16, 2005 Folks- Doing my first real finish job and am testing top coats of reranch lacquer vs. Varithane and at this point haven't made up my mind which way I'm going. But I've to a warmoth maple neck coming in anytime and know that I need to seal it to keep the warantee in place, but I'm not sure what to use as I won't be able to get to the neck for a month or more. Usually I would spray it with sanding sealer- But if I go with varithane later the lacquer sealer underneath would be a problem- Anyone had to deal with this before? Quote
mikhailgtrski Posted November 16, 2005 Report Posted November 16, 2005 If it's just going to sit for awhile you don't need to do anything (Warmoth has already dipped the neck in some type of penetrating sealer). If you're going to be playing it right away you'll need to apply a hard finish i.e. lacquer or polyurethane. As you're aware, playing it raw will void the warranty. Mike Quote
Gemleggat Posted November 16, 2005 Report Posted November 16, 2005 I have several maple necks that have no finish, either because i have worn it off or i didn't apply it and nothing has ever warped. For a quick finish i would use tung oil. It needs little to apply and is fairly hard wearing, it can also feel beautiful! Quote
zionstrat Posted November 16, 2005 Author Report Posted November 16, 2005 If it's just going to sit for awhile you don't need to do anything (Warmoth has already dipped the neck in some type of penetrating sealer). If you're going to be playing it right away you'll need to apply a hard finish i.e. lacquer or polyurethane. As you're aware, playing it raw will void the warranty. Mike ← I didn't realize they had sealed it before they sent it- So I will need to do a good sanding before I do my finish when the time comes, eh? Thanks! M Quote
mdw3332 Posted November 17, 2005 Report Posted November 17, 2005 I have several maple necks that have no finish, either because i have worn it off or i didn't apply it and nothing has ever warped. For a quick finish i would use tung oil. It needs little to apply and is fairly hard wearing, it can also feel beautiful! ← Be aware that just using an oil will invalidate Warmoth's warranty. Quote
bugman96 Posted November 23, 2005 Report Posted November 23, 2005 Be aware that just using an oil will invalidate Warmoth's warranty. ← Does that include danish oil? Quote
mikhailgtrski Posted November 23, 2005 Report Posted November 23, 2005 Yes, danish oil won't cut it. Warmoth requires a hard finish to validate their warranty. Quote
Mattia Posted November 23, 2005 Report Posted November 23, 2005 I still think it's a complete and utter bull reason to invalidate a warranty, personally. My feeling: if it's gonna warp, it'll warp, and no finish in the 'verse will do anything substantial to stop and/or contribute to its warping. Quote
marksound Posted November 23, 2005 Report Posted November 23, 2005 I tend to think there's probably a boatload of horror stories behind that business policy. Good or bad, I'm sure there's a reason for it. But ultimately, that's the deal. If you don't like it, fine. Take your chances or take your business elsewhere. Quote
Mattia Posted November 23, 2005 Report Posted November 23, 2005 I tend to think there's probably a boatload of horror stories behind that business policy. Good or bad, I'm sure there's a reason for it. But ultimately, that's the deal. If you don't like it, fine. Take your chances or take your business elsewhere. ← I'm sure there's a reason behind it, but with (for instance) MusicMan/Ernie Ball selling thousands of maple oil-finished necks out there, and without any horror stories of necks warping or failing (not more so than with any other company, that is), I can't help but wonder if they're simply laying the blame on oil finishes without good, solid reason to. I seriously doubt they've done comparative testing/research. Quote
5150rocker Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 When they talk about finishing a neck is it just the head and back or do you have to put finish on the fret area also? Quote
mikhailgtrski Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 You'd only finish the fretboard if it's maple. Rosewood and ebony don't need a finish. Quote
5150rocker Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 Yes it is maple.Thanks,as far as finishing goes I suppose I would use a sealer and a finish,correct? Quote
mikhailgtrski Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 You don't have to use a sealer unless you want to. Lots of guys here just spray lacquer without sanding sealer. That neck should be pretty much ready to spray. It's already fretted, right? I'd just lightly sand the back with 320 grit, vacuum it and wipe it down with naptha, then start with the clear coats. You'd probably get better results with lacquer. Rattlecan polyurethane would work, but it can show witness lines (i.e. you can see where you've sanded through a coat) after you sand it level. Hope it goes well for you Mike Quote
5150rocker Posted December 2, 2005 Report Posted December 2, 2005 Dumb question #1...Do you have to mask the frets? Quote
mikhailgtrski Posted December 2, 2005 Report Posted December 2, 2005 Dumb question #1...Do you have to mask the frets? ← From Warmoth's site: "As a final note on the subject, maple necks require a finish to preclude neck warpage. The finish is sprayed directly over the frets. It is a tedious task to remove the finish and in many production guitars, it is simply left on them to wear off in use… A fret leveling operation will take this off or the finish may be scraped off each individual fret. Warmoth does not offer either fret leveling or paint removal services." Not worth the trouble of masking. Quote
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