Calum_Barrow Posted January 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2006 (edited) I posted some stuff on UG but forgot to post it here. This was sometime like a week or two ago when I did it. I made a body template and a template for the Tele headstock, and routed the channel for the truss rod. Forgot to take pics of the templates and cant be arsed now. Neck blank with channel marked out prior to routing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4039.jpg Channel cut 10mm deep 12mm wide. Ends not square yet. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4043.jpg It fits! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4044.jpg Ends of channel paired with a chisel. A bit dirty, but the cut is clean and square. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4046.jpg Truss rod housing in the channel. I took the bolt out as I still need to cut the end of the blank off and drill a hole from the end of the heel into the truss rod cavity for the allen nut on the end to go into. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4048.jpg It fits great, and its a bit dirty at either end of the channel but that doesn't matter. Need to rout out the channel for the the skunk stripe soon. There'll be 6mm of wood between the truss rod channel and the sknunk stripe channel. Bear in mind that the skunk stripe will only be 1/4" (6.35mm) wide and won't extend to the full length of the neck anyway. It should be strong enough shouldn't it? it's gonna be quite a thick neck. Edited January 13, 2006 by Calum_Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 Well, on Wednesday I routed out the channel for the skunk stripe, which I'll probably fill tomorrow after I've cut the ebony to go in it. Yesterday I got the headstock cut out roughly on the bandsaw, but I won't finish it off before I cut out the rest of the neck. I ran the bandsaw off so I can cut the sides of the neck with a circular saw to keep them straight. While I'm at it I'll cut the thickness of the headstock with the circular saw too, again to keep it straight. So tomorrow I should have a neck with skunk stripe inserted, and with everthing ready to attach the fretboard and start fretting and inserting the inlays. Body blank after rough cut on bandsaw: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4106.jpg Body blank all cleaned up (still SOME imperfections, but they'll be taken out when I've got the top glued on) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4111.jpg Headstock roughly cut out: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4114.jpg Things to do tomorrow: Cut the sides of the neck (Circular saw) Drill tuner holes (Pillar Drill) Cut the thickness of the headstock (Circular saw) Cut the ebony block to make the two skunk stripes (though I'll only be using one tomorrow) (Circular saw) Drill neck heel for the truss rod nut (Pillar Drill) Glue skunk stripe in The neck pockets are oversized because I need to make them to fit the necks. They shouldn't be toof ar out at all really, but I'm just making sure. Here's the walnut top (Ain't got it yet, but he sent me a pic of it all sawn). Total size is 24"x38"x3/16" http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/calum001.jpg Think that's it for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 14, 2006 Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 Be careful when you go to sand the ebony/maple and the padauk/maple, you need to take precautions so that the black/red dust doesn't get into the grain of the maple, it will make the maple look really dirty and crappy. It doesn't happen at the larger grits, but once you get around 220 grit or so, it will happen real quick. What I do is to sand to 220 then tape off the dark woods with masking tape. Then I'll spray the maple with rattle-can shellac and let it cure a few days. This will fill whatever open grain existsin the maple. Then you can sand away with the finer grits. This works only if you are not going to stain the maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 Be careful when you go to sand the ebony/maple and the padauk/maple, you need to take precautions so that the black/red dust doesn't get into the grain of the maple, it will make the maple look really dirty and crappy. It doesn't happen at the larger grits, but once you get around 220 grit or so, it will happen real quick. What I do is to sand to 220 then tape off the dark woods with masking tape. Then I'll spray the maple with rattle-can shellac and let it cure a few days. This will fill whatever open grain existsin the maple. Then you can sand away with the finer grits. This works only if you are not going to stain the maple. Hey thanks, I'll *try* and remember to do that. I forget things too easily I don't think it's got into the maple so far, but then again, so far I've only used 80 grit on the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 14, 2006 Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 Be careful when you go to sand the ebony/maple and the padauk/maple, you need to take precautions so that the black/red dust doesn't get into the grain of the maple, it will make the maple look really dirty and crappy. It doesn't happen at the larger grits, but once you get around 220 grit or so, it will happen real quick. What I do is to sand to 220 then tape off the dark woods with masking tape. Then I'll spray the maple with rattle-can shellac and let it cure a few days. This will fill whatever open grain existsin the maple. Then you can sand away with the finer grits. This works only if you are not going to stain the maple. Hey thanks, I'll *try* and remember to do that. I forget things too easily I don't think it's got into the maple so far, but then again, so far I've only used 80 grit on the body. This is precisely why people need to learn to love their scrapers. Bit of thin tool steel, 10 bucks will get you a whole assortment in different sizes, all you need to 'sharpen' it is a mill file and a the shank of an old carbide router bit, and you've got one of the most versatile shaping and finish-sanding tools known to man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 This is precisely why people need to learn to love their scrapers. Bit of thin tool steel, 10 bucks will get you a whole assortment in different sizes, all you need to 'sharpen' it is a mill file and a the shank of an old carbide router bit, and you've got one of the most versatile shaping and finish-sanding tools known to man. I sharpen the sides some chisels I have and use those to scrape. Like a planer really, but you can go up and down curves with it. I don't have a drum sander, so I had to sand the sides of my guitar body with my orbital sander (the older style ones with the rectangular pad). Unsurprisingly the sides were slightly cuved so I actually did a lot of work with the sides of a few chisels. Did the job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 This is precisely why people need to learn to love their scrapers. Bit of thin tool steel, 10 bucks will get you a whole assortment in different sizes, all you need to 'sharpen' it is a mill file and a the shank of an old carbide router bit, and you've got one of the most versatile shaping and finish-sanding tools known to man. I sharpen the sides some chisels I have and use those to scrape. Like a planer really, but you can go up and down curves with it. I don't have a drum sander, so I had to sand the sides of my guitar body with my orbital sander (the older style ones with the rectangular pad). Unsurprisingly the sides were slightly cuved so I actually did a lot of work with the sides of a few chisels. Did the job! I heartily reccomend getting a few actual cabinet scrapers of various thickknesses. The flex you have with those leaves you with a bit more flexibility in terms of how and where you can use them, hold them, etc. Plus the curved shapes == handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 This is precisely why people need to learn to love their scrapers. I agree in theory....several times I have been this-><-close to buying a set of scrapers and a proper burnishing tool. But I feel like...in the time it takes me to learn how to sharpen them, turn a hook and get the hang of it, well I'm done sanding & moving on to the next stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 This is precisely why people need to learn to love their scrapers. I agree in theory....several times I have been this-><-close to buying a set of scrapers and a proper burnishing tool. But I feel like...in the time it takes me to learn how to sharpen them, turn a hook and get the hang of it, well I'm done sanding & moving on to the next stage. See, I think you're vastly overestimating the difficulty here. Sharpening a plane iron or a chisel takes some time, so practice, and doesn't necessarily go well the first time. You also don't need a burnisher, really; make one yourself! Take piece of wood, cut kerf into it, so it looks like StewMac's, drill the appropriate hole, and the shaft of and old carbide router bit you probably have lying around anyway. Or use it unburnished, simply squared, with a rougher hook, which will let you use the tool agressively, to actually shape the piece; I do a lot of detailwork (shaping headstock transitions, volutes, even top carving) with a 'coarsely' turned scraper. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Scrapers..._Burnisher.html http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Scrapers..._Burnisher.html it's basic, but for a 'coarser' finish, you don't even need to turn the hook. Just mill the edge flat and don't lap the edges. It literally takes me about 1 minute to square and burnish a scraper blade. Spend about half an hour 'learning' the tool, experimenting with different burnishing techniques (there are tons more articles on the net, some with video, some without) and testing on scrap, and you should be there already. I don't only use scrapers, I do use quite a bit of sandpaper (not all grain likes to be scraped), but scrapers are among my favourite tools ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 I tend not to buy specialist equipment when I can make do with what I've got. I can use the side of a chisel, or if I wanted a more scraper-like tool I'd use some Stanley Knife blades. I don't see the point in spending all this money on specialist equipment when I'm not building and selling or building for a job or anything. When I get to that stage (*IF* I get to that stage), I'll buy stuff made for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 See, I think you're vastly overestimating the difficulty here. Yeah that's me....guilty as charged! That is my penchant, I see difficulty and complications everywhere, until I finally just go and try it. Then it almost never turns out to be as difficult as I imagined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 (edited) I tend not to buy specialist equipment when I can make do with what I've got. I can use the side of a chisel, or if I wanted a more scraper-like tool I'd use some Stanley Knife blades. I don't see the point in spending all this money on specialist equipment when I'm not building and selling or building for a job or anything. When I get to that stage (*IF* I get to that stage), I'll buy stuff made for the job. 'Specialist equipment'? Scrapers are just about as basic as you can get, and should be part of every woodworking shop, along with a plane, a chisel or two, a handsaw and a rasp! I suspect you're very much overestimating the cost of scrapers, and underestimating their utility. They'll pay for themselves in terms of cost of sandpaper (which, surely, you do buy) within one instrument. Stanley knife blades are more expensive for this purpose, and less good at what they do. F'r isntance, a set of three different shapes, Veritas, from Axminster: http://www.axminster.co.uk/name/scraper/sf...apers-22454.htm And you can probably pick up a card scraper from your local superstore for under 2 quid. That kind of price for a tool that's this useful, IMO, is a steal. Cheap, disposalbe, insta!sharp scraper: freshly broken glass. Next time you see someone replacing a window, ask them for the old one. You won't regret it. Or, y'know, buy a box of microscope slides for fine detail work. Edited January 15, 2006 by mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 Listen to the guys and buy some scrapers, they're great. The thinner ones from the axminster links posted will be perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 (edited) 'Specialist equipment'? Scrapers are just about as basic as you can get, and should be part of every woodworking shop, along with a plane, a chisel or two, a handsaw and a rasp! When I said that I was really referring to fret benders and presses and such, but I dont see why I need any TBH, when I can do without them. Soon that one cheap tool will become many, and the costs will add up. I'll have a look when I go to get a new spokeshave (don't know where my other went). I don't see why I *have* to get some though. Anyway, got into the workshop to do some work today, albeit only two hours, but I did everything on that list apart from drilling the 9mm hole for the truss rod nut. The ebony was a pain in the ass to round off at the end to match the channel by filing, pairing and sanding, so I had to round off the end on the 6" bench grinder : Did the job. The tuner holes were drilled using a 10mm bit (the actual post measurement is 25/64, which is 9.9something mm) and they fit really well. Piloted the bits for the screws for the tuners also, and the tuners fit, even though the headstock is still a little too thick on the top (haven't touched it since I thicknessed it on the table saw). I made the neck/headstock scallop with a coping saw and then with a chisel. sanded it with some 60 grit paper afterwards and now it's pretty smooth. It'll be smoothed off with everything else when I finish cutting out the headstock and sanding it down. Just got the finish cutting the headstock out, drill the truss rod hole and thickness the headstock a little before I can insert the truss rod, glue the fingerboard on and begin shaping, fretting and inlaying the neck. Front of neck and fingerboard (blurry, but didn't look it on the camera when I took it. meh) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4118.jpg Back of neck and fingerboard http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4123.jpg That's it for now :cheers: Calum Edited January 16, 2006 by Calum_Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 If the arguments very cheap and incredibly versatile (from shaping to surface finishing) can't convince you, I'm not sure what will. I'm all for buying tools as you need 'em, but buying scrapers is practically on the same level as buying s'more sandpaper in terms of outlay, and they last, essentially, a lifetime. Or at the very least a few decades. The only 'risk' is that you might like them so much you'll want a wider assortment of them for different tasks (thinner, thicker, curved, etc). Nice work on the neck so far, though! Lookin' good! For the record: I always use a 10mm drill bit for tuning machines. It's the 'proper' diameter for Gotoh and Schaller, I believe (both from 'metric countries'), has worked fine, with a good tight fit, with all other brands of modern machines I've used (Sperzel, Planet Waves). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 I'll have a look at buying some when I go to get a spokeshaver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 Been in the garage doing some cutting sanding and planing to get the neck right. The headstock is cut out now and sanded, and the whole neck is ready for the truss rod nut hole to be drilled (was going to do it today, but I forgot to take the neck to school). Once that's done I can insert the truss rod and glue on the fretboard. Need to make myself some radiused sanding blocks for the fingerboard too, and I thought I'd make quite a few at once (different radii) while I've got the router set up for doing so. Anyway, just a few pics in case you didn't know what a Tele headstock looks like: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4133.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4136.jpg Ugh, blurry. I should start taking pictures in the daylight, cause I hate taking pictures inside with a flash without setting up a flashgun and such. If I use the camera's flash you can't see the shadows and such and it looks flat. Whatever. When I finish the guitar I'll remember to take some proper, IN FOCUS, pictures Also, there's a little chip on the back of the heel. No idea where it came from but I'll sort it out later or I may just leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Thought I might actually drill through the top at first, as the wood is thin there, but I didn't and it's pretty strong. Had to drill to 9.5 to give it a loose fit, and it's perfect now. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4238.jpg Here's the walnut! Don't worry, the radiator isn't on. Used the flash on this one so you can see the grain in it's realy colour; without the artificial warmth of the tungsten bulbs. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4251.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted January 26, 2006 Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 that is some beautiful walnut. I love working with that stuff. Where'd you get those pieces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 that is some beautiful walnut. I love working with that stuff. Where'd you get those pieces? Andy Fellows. Simo recommended him. I'd certainly reccommend him to others. He has fantastic wood, he's fantastic to deal with too. That cost me £45 too incl. P+P. Not bad eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted January 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) Anyway, got back from work today and decided that I'd unclamp the neck today. Tidied up the sides of the fingerboard so they're straight (couple of little notches at the bottom left of the fretboard, but they can be sorted after) and flush with the side of the neck. Doesn't have to be perfect cause obviously I'm shaping the neck afterwards. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4282.jpg Check out the grain http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4309.jpg Put the tuners on just for the sake of putting them on to show you how they looked. Not my choice in colour, but they'll do for now. Tomorrow I'm going to start (and maybe finish) making my jig for my router so I can make some radius sanding blocks. Also, during the week I'm going to chamber one side of the body so that on the weekend I can get onto fitting the top (), and cutting and binding the f-hole. Until then, that's it! Edited January 30, 2006 by Calum_Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Ain't done anything for a while, but I got the neck pocket for the 6 string routed out. The body is a bit messy in places, but I'll tidy it all up when I've chambered, fitted the top, binded and routed etc. So far I'm really pleased for a first try, and neck pocket it nice and tight. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4502.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4510.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4515.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted March 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 (edited) Made a radius sanding block today by hand, because I couldn't be bothered making a router jig properly. I made one, but it was pretty inconsistent because I didn't make a cradle/box for the block to sit in. Took about 30 mins I would say and I got it just right. Also cut the nut slot today, and shaped the nut to fit. Ain't glued it or anything yet though as i need to go buy some epoxy which I'll go do tomorrow along with some other stuff (such as polystyrene for my case ) Anyway, pics: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4535.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4536.jpg As you can see, the nut does not match the fingerboard radius, so I'll have to sort that out later. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4542.jpg Just to give an idea of the radius. In the foreground there's a dirty patch in the middle where it didn't get sanded, but this will probably disappear tomorrow when I do some more sanding after cutting the fret slots. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4544.jpg Another view of the radius. The sides don't look too straight on here, but that's just the camera angle. That and the fact they aren't actually bang on perfect yet, which will be done when I shape the back of the neck. I love inset days. Calum Edited March 9, 2006 by Calum_Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Lookin' good man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 (edited) Thanks! Went shopping today and bought: Mitre box Needle Files Epoxy Resin Sandpaper (in various grits) 2 off. 2400 x 1200mm Polystyrene sheets for the case, one of which broke in half in the car park due to the wind When I got back I set up the Mitre box and got all the slots cut for the frets. I also ran over the board with some 120. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4555.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4558.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/Calum/PICT4560.jpg Calum Edited May 10, 2006 by Calum_Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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