Brass Shim Thickness? (trem-blocking)

[zeppenwolf]

I've blocked off my tremolo-- the "standard" Strat type, with 3-5 springs in the back...

In addition to blocking it off, I was thinking of putting a thin brass shim underneath the top-protruding part of the bridge, between the bridge and body, giving the trem a a more flush seat to contact the body.

It needs to be thin, or it won't fit, reasonably. But if it's too thin, it will bend.

What thickness should I try? Is brass "sheet" available in different alloys?

Ideas, comments?

[GuitarGuy]

Look for shim stock. you can get it in many thicknesses. Also try local hobby shops there's a company calles K&S that sells brass for model making.

But i still don't follow what you're trying to do?

[doug]

Why not just block the trem where you want it from underneath? I've even heard of people drilling the block and screwing it to the body with a shim in between. You wouldn't even need springs at all or the brass piece.

That K&S brass is some kind of alloy which is really hard too, btw.

-Doug

[zeppenwolf]

Responding to both of you, yes, the trem is already blocked off with balsa wood crammed between the trem flange and bridge-side wall of the trem cavity. I could take off all the springs and nothing would move.

The purpose of the shim is to sit between the body and bridge portion of the trem, on the front side of the guitar, (I'll need to cut a hole in the middle of the shim), so that A ) there is a firm and large area contact between trem/bridge and body, and B ) it will look more like a finished, fixed bridge than a non-moving tremolo. The shim doesn't serve as a block-- the wood shims still need to be in place in the back cavity.

Yes, I guess I'll check the hobby shops. Thanks.

Edited January 7, 2006 by zeppenwolf

[Setch]

Cant you just screw the trem down all the way and raised the saddles to maintain the same action? Or is a 2 point which won't screwall the way down?