Drilling Through Glued On Maple Veneer

[9956]

Is it possible? tips for making sure the veneer doesnt crack etc. Basically i want to drill holes for the pots, posts etc etc, after somehow filling in the control cavity (i want to convert a pickguard ibanez to a non pickguard veneer version)

[Primal]

I wouldn't think you would have any trouble just drilling as usual.

[ToneMonkey]

A wooden block that is clamped firmly over the top of where you are drilling may help, but may well be more trouble than it's worth.

Normally a wooden block would be placed on the back of what you are drilling through so that the object wood doesn't split. In this case, if you put it on the front, it would probably be a nightmare trying to drill in the right place.

I think the age old saying of "Try it on a bit of scrap first". Have you got a bit of wood and a bit of vaneer left?

[adinfinitum]

I have seen on other woodworking tutorials when cutting veneer, use blue masking tape and an exacto knife.

Do other people think that you could use the same method when drilling?

[tasty]

You may want to try drilling a piece of scrap veneer (if you do have some lying around)....not sure if you glued it on yourself? Otherwise the block of wood/masking tape idea sounds pretty good.

[marksound]

You're filling the control cavity? Are you going to rerout the body from the back?

[9956]

Yes hopefully (rerouting from back), as i would like to be able to show off the flame in all its glory without a pickguard. None of this has even begun by the way, I was just working it out in my head. Any tips on how to put the control cavity on the other side? I will definitely try all processes on bits of veneer and wood, im not screwing up my new guitar...its just not my main one and I have caught the modding bug.

[M_A_T_T]

Use a high quality Brad-Point drill bit. They have flutes along the outer edge that score the drilling area first, as well as a central pin point for accuracy. They are actually specifically designed for wood.

[Southpa]

Sharp bits, high speed and slow penetration. Don't give the bit a chance to grab an edge.

[hendrikjan]

Sharp bits, high speed and slow penetration. Don't give the bit a chance to grab an edge.

what also helps if you let the drill go "in reverse" you need a bit more force to push it in, but the chances of cathing on the bitt are a lot smaller

[Mattia]

Honestly, other than backing the exit side, I just use sharp bits and high speed and let that do the work (little pressure, ie, slow feed rate). Clamp the piece, and just drill. Reversing, etc. seems like a case of severly overthinking this. Only place I use a bit of masking tape is if I'm drilling a finished surface.

[ryanb]

Matt got it right. Use a sharp brad point bit or a forstner bit.

[stiggz]

1+

for reverse

well do that until you get through the veneer, then into forwards if you need to go through anything else.

luke