9956 Posted January 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 Theres a view of the front with the piece of wood fitted and a load of chip filler slapped in, will look MUCH better when I have sanded flush obviously. I havent used any glue to hold the piece in as of yet, it is SECURELY wedged though, as in you would have to hammer for a sustained period to even budge it. And no its not MDF, I have no idea what it is, but it was light and inflexible and hard. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...sertcloseup.jpg There is a crappy closeup of the insert. I would say I have sanded it down to about 1/2 a mm above the level of the wood before I called it a day and did the filler. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/backhole.jpg And here is where I drilled out the back. I now need obviously to (preferably) purchse the back covers for the cavity, to cover the hole. Anyone know of anywhere I could get this? I could always make my own out of a thin piece of wood, and have it sprayed along with the body....that kinda appeals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 26, 2006 Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 wood putty?! tisk, tisk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevan Posted January 27, 2006 Report Share Posted January 27, 2006 9956- PLEASE re-read the rules regarding pics in posts: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11235 Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted January 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 (edited) http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...moothinsert.jpg Current state of the front, I am thinking it is time to sand and paint the back and sides. Ordered some primer spray, then will be sprayed in a car shop. Then veneering time... I want to do it this way round so absolutely no red paint can flicker onto the veneer, it would ruin the look. I will just have to be really gentle with the painted final object when im doing and staining the veneer + drilling holes for pots. I have decided to screw the single coil at this point in time, I am doing a master volume and a neck tone pot for the 2 humbuckers. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/backtaped.jpg There is the back at the moment, just sanded and cavities covered. My current concern is how to make a cavity cover for the back hole, suggestions would be awesome. I am thinking cut a piece of plastic/wood to size, and somehow sink the edges of the hole (no idea how though) Edited January 29, 2006 by 9956 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 Current state of the front Is it the pic.....or doesn't that front area doesn't look completely smooth. Before veneering I would make sure it's abolutely flat. Repeat filling/sanding/filling cycle couple of times. And I would have waited with painting back until veneer was in place. Reason being....when you have painted back and sides and some glue from veneer will stick to sides.....sanding this smooth will result in area on paint that has to be fixed again. Just with proper masking and taping you could make sure no paint will get to the veneer...specially if you do you staining and clear layers first. Interesting to see you're have tendency to use backwards approach from what would have been mine. Then again more then one route will lead to the heavens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 (edited) You had an opportunity to trace out the control cavity cover right after cutting the back of the guitar out. Trace it out and then expand the edges by about 1/4" for a ledge to screw the plate down. Remove the duct tape and replace it with blue or green masking tape. Duct tape leaves a real nasty, sticky residue. Edited January 29, 2006 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 ...this only reinforces the fact that planning is paramount. Live and learn, and all that jazz. You can still do what southpa recomonded, more or less. Tape a sheet of paper over the control cavity and slide the side of some pencil lead around the edges...much like if you were trying to copy an engraving onto paper. Like he said, expand the edges, then make yourself a routing template and a cover based off of your drawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted January 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 I came up with a "creative" solution as well.....photocopying the front after drawing an outline...lol it will make some kinda template. And no you are completely right, i need to do another filler cycle, sand, sanding seal and prime. Just showing and update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 These control cover backplates are on sales on ebay all the time. This way you can use backplate to trace out a template in MDF....and use this MDF template to cut out the control plate recess. And in PM you asked about issues with masking tape and veneer. Yes, there is an issue with veneer and masking take. I'm working on quilted 1/4" top on my RGT-7 and I must say that tape and the maple don't play well together. With veneer I only imagine it to be worse. Solution could be to finish up the veneer before you move on to rest of body. Meaning, glue veneer in place, clean up edges......sand and stain veneer....and follow up with clear Nitro or other coating. This way you top is secured and you can move on with rest of the body. The clear coat on top (when properly hardened) will make sure you don't have any tape issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted February 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 I will be following that suggestion, it seems the correct way. Would I cut a slot for the switch and drill holes before or after veneering? If i do it before, i can cut the veneer out with a knife, wheras after requires drilling the veneer. Headstock sanded http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/DSC_0435.jpg Control and pickup cavities shielded http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/DSC_0436.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/DSC_0439.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted February 5, 2006 Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 Why did you shield it before you painted? You really need to consider the repercussions of the order of your steps while modifying this guitar. For instance, if you get any laquer on that shielding tape, you'll need to sand through the laquer so you can get a ground signal to the tape. One suggestion for your control cavity cover: make a template to route the lip the cover will sit on, then use that to route the ledge. Wrap a layer of masking tape around the inside, top, and bottom of the template. Fill it with bondo. Once the bondo is almost totally dry, pop it out and allow it to finish drying. This will give you a perfect male template for routing the cover. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted February 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 A lot of the "order" of this project is to do with "oh I now have money for x thing" "oh x thing is finally delivered" and so on. This is true, but seeing as I plan to tape the cavities up when laquering/painting anyway, I will not be spraying a whole coat onto it thus blocking connectivity. The best grounding method is to solder all the wires marked "to ground" together in one blob and then run a wire to the neutral lug of the jack? That is what i have understood by star grounding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted February 5, 2006 Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 You also must make sure your cavity is getting a ground signal. If there's any laquer in the cavity, you might not get continuity between the grounded pot chassis and the shielding. A multimeter will save you many headaches when working on electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 5, 2006 Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 A lot of the "order" of this project is to do with "oh I now have money for x thing" "oh x thing is finally delivered" and so on. This is true, but seeing as I plan to tape the cavities up when laquering/painting anyway, I will not be spraying a whole coat onto it thus blocking connectivity. The best grounding method is to solder all the wires marked "to ground" together in one blob and then run a wire to the neutral lug of the jack? That is what i have understood by star grounding Well, suppose you're building a house and you're trying to finish it as the materials arrive or as you have money to order more stuff. It isn't going to work. It's like finishing the bathroom before you buy the Jacuzzi tub that won't fit through the finished door frame. You need to make a plan and schedule and stick to it. I know it's tempting to throw parts at the guitar as they come in, but why cause yourself the aggravation later? I mean, you agree that it's easier to shield a guitar that's been painted and cleared rather than shield, then mask, then paint, then clear, then peel, then feather in the exposed tape marks that won't be covered by a pickguard, right? Also, just because you're using star grounding doesn't mean you don't need to connect the shielding to the grounding point. If you lacquer over the shielding, you won't have good continuity and even more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flood Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 i'm stuck with the same problem; i shielded my strat cavity before painting. the reason with me was, i wasn't planning to refuirbish it at that point of time. don't want to hijack this thread; am converting a squier strat into a fretless w. sustainer, maple top and sunburst, original colour was white, and now i'm trying to figure out how i'm going to do that burst without isolating the cavity. on idea i've had was blocking up the cavity with a piece of card/plastic *slightly* smaller than the pickguard; i.e., practically the same size, but reduced at the edges, so that unpainted areas are less likely to be seen. this baby is going to get a veneer laminated pickguard too, in all probability. please comment on this method; the noob needs to know. :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 How about stuffing the cavity with paper towels? Seems to work for those hollowbody guys who don't want finish inside their guitars ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyd Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 yeah or simply mask it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted February 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Yeah it seems kinda simple, I did the whole protecting the neck in about 5 minutes....masking/covering the cavities seems a doss....(famous last words) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted February 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Just took the guitar into the shop at school and cut a slot for the switch with the milling machine. Very tidy, far better than any dremel job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 (edited) Finished (re)veneering, Im happy with the veneer now, its completely flat and solid round the edges. I have smoothed all the edges, it is now completely on and fitted to the basswood. Next I need to work out how to get a nice flame on maple.....sanding back seems to lose me the figure.... http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...neercloseup.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/veneered1.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/veneered3.jpg Edited February 28, 2006 by 9956 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyd Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 very nice work, looks alot better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 I am also in the UK, where did you get that veneer from? marquetry.co.uk? BTW your project looks great, i want to do something similar, but to a neck thru guitar i built, and i wanted to use a flamed maple veneer like that one best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9956 Posted March 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 Yeah marquetry.co.uk is GREAT. Jim emails back really quick and informatively. If your guitar isnt arched at all i would severely reccomend buying 1 sq m of their thermoplastic glue sheets, thats what i used on the flat half of the guitar. REALLY good stuff, just clut veneer roughly to size and iron on through paper. Really strong when cold, but can easily be detached by reheating, unlike glues. If its your first time veneering then order enough veneer to cover 2 guitars (5sq foot should do it), a scalpel and 10 blades, and 1 sq meter of glue sheet. minimum order is £10 so that should sort you for one or two projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 Next I need to work out how to get a nice flame on maple.....sanding back seems to lose me the figure.... Sand it with progressively finer sand paper to around 600 grit. That should bring out the figure nicely. If that doesn't work, I've heard a blowtorch can add some nice flames to a maple top. Just remember not to sand too aggressively; it is only a veneer afterall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 (edited) I am also in the UK, where did you get that veneer from? marquetry.co.uk? BTW your project looks great, i want to do something similar, but to a neck thru guitar i built, and i wanted to use a flamed maple veneer like that one best of luck It is pretty flat, but it's got the arm rest contour, would it work there? Not my first time veneering, but i used contact cement after getting frustrated with the wood glue, the water in it damaged the veneer and i couldn't get it to be flat, contact cement has no water at all, but be messy good luck man, looks beautiful BTW what kinda veneer did ya get? flames sycamore? Edited March 2, 2006 by eddiewarlock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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