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Pimping My Rg505


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Please dont be tempted to get the blowtorch on that veneer, and dont sand it too much either, be aware of how thin the veneer is and how easy ity is to go through it at the edges. The flame looks great and will look even better when finshed, dont get greedy. If this is being finished a colour then its ok to dye the maple black and sand most of it off before spraying the colour, when i say most of it i mean it, you want most of the wood to be maple coloured again with just a hint of shadow on the flames. Bare in mind this means more sanding and therefore more chance of going through the maple veneer so i propbably wouldnt do it on a veneer topped guitar. This is probably the most effective way of popping the figure, but some people think it takes something away from the 3d effect of the flamed maple

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Real quick question.... Are you planning on putting a pickguard back on the guitar? If so, why go through all the trouble of filling and rear routing only to show the wire hole between the pickup holes?

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I was thinking exactly the same, but I didn't want to spoil the fun :D

Well, when you're not working from any sort of plan and simply throwing parts at the guitar to begin with, what's wrong with having a couple of nice, copper colored HOLES in the face of the guitar that you forgot to fill in? :D

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OH come on now... no need to pick on him... Now that it is pointed out, he probably feels like poo now... The big question is how hard is it to remove that veneer and use the second one he had to get when he ordered the first one....or can he just lay the other veneer directly over this veneer...

There is no need to bash him or make fun of him, even though I have noticed that he hasn't wanted to listen to some of the more experienced guys here on the forum...We should instead come together and help him find a solution.... :D

On a more personal note though, I think a nice pickguard would look awesome against that flame... Maybe a colored mirror finish... you can just use the pickguard you already have against a piece of mirrored acrylic and use the original as a router template... just be very careful and precut the acrylic beforehand to make it very close to the original size before routering it, otherwise you can risk breaking the acrylic... I would glue the acrylic down (with the paper on of course) to a piece of 1/4"MDF in order to precut so to reduce the risk of breaking the acrylic with the jig saw... just a thought though... and of course only if you can't come up with another solution...

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OH come on now... no need to pick on him... Now that it is pointed out, he probably feels like poo now... The big question is how hard is it to remove that veneer and use the second one he had to get when he ordered the first one....or can he just lay the other veneer directly over this veneer...

There is no need to bash him or make fun of him, even though I have noticed that he hasn't wanted to listen to some of the more experienced guys here on the forum...We should instead come together and help him find a solution.... :D

I normally wouldn't mess with someone who's made a mistake or two, but a lot of people have been pointing out the fact that he has no master plan and is wasting time, materials, and money throwing parts at costly mistakes. He really needs to work out an order of completion for this project before he throws a third veneer at this thing.

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I normally wouldn't mess with someone who's made a mistake or two, but a lot of people have been pointing out the fact that he has no master plan and is wasting time, materials, and money throwing parts at costly mistakes. He really needs to work out an order of completion for this project before he throws a third veneer at this thing.

Ah, to be young again! Or at least to remember what's that's like... (and even thegarehanman must have an impetuous moment every now and then... :D )

I think 99 has learned, and is learning, a lot on this one -- the fact is, no matter how many times some old fart (eh hem!) tells you you're making a mistake, none of that will make any sense at all until you go ahead and make the mistake and find out for yourself why it's a mistake. It's a question of personality type too--some of us NEED to live that way.

And for you other guys, you do remember what it's like screwing up? Not always easy to say oops.

So, now that the mistake's there--how can he fix it?

Well, yes, that IS why they invented pickguards! :D

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Thanks guys for not slating me. I initially honestly thought the best way would be to leave the holes inbetween the pickup slots, as i didnt want to leave veneer over empty space.

I dont really like pickguards, but many thanks for the suggestions

I have got 2 humbucker rings already, will see how it looks then, i may make my own single coil ring with the milling machine at school.

Another veneer is not happening, i am far too proud of the edges on this one.

For finishing advice, this is hard/not wafer thin veneer, it took me a long time to sand through a piece of scrap mounted on mdf. (I literally deliberately sanded through to test it out)

I found when i sand it at all i lose 3d figure, so im honestly thinking just red dye then clearcoat might be the best option i have. The black/sand back/red idea seems wicked in theory, but no matter if i only sand back a bit, the 3d effect is robbed from me!

Im planning to spray on acrylic gloss laquer and sand to 2000, im assuming this will enhance the figure to the point where it pretty much looks how it does when laquer is still wet. If i did the black/sand back/red thing, would the shiny gloss help to restore the 3d effect??

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What sandpaper grit are you using for sanding back? You'll find that laying on the clear coat will accentuate the figure that you thought you'd lost. Also, 2000 grit isn't really enough. That will give you a matte look. You'll need to buff the body with 2 or 3 progressively finer buffing compounds after sanding to 2000(don't start at 2000 though). By the way, you can get the top looking pretty good with only red dye. If you put on enough coats, you'll start to see quite a bit of variations in color in the figuring. Also, you probably wouldn't want to go with black if you're sanding back and dying red. A maroon or very dark red would probably be a better route.

and even thegarehanman must have an impetuous moment every now and then...

Every now and then? Probably a little more often than that :D. All of the cool kids just fix it and move on...except for misplaced tuner holes and things of that nature. Obviously, that's something that has to be brought to light :D .

EDIT: I also meant to say that the guitar you posted at the beginning of this thread was definitely not given the black sand back treatment.

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So a lot of weakish coats of red would give me more of a 3d effect than one really strong coat?

I will buy some buffing compounds, probably use the wheel at school. I have grades 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000, i know i need to move through progressively. Mmmm shiny gloss finish will be mine.

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So a lot of weakish coats of red would give me more of a 3d effect than one really strong coat?

I will buy some buffing compounds, probably use the wheel at school. I have grades 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000, i know i need to move through progressively. Mmmm shiny gloss finish will be mine.

Test on scrap, see which colour effect you like best. More weaker coats give you control over exactly how strong you want the colours.

As for buffing compounds and sandpaper: the grades you're talking about are all good, use 'em wet, and make sure you remove ALL scratches from the previous grit before moving to the next.

Also, don't expect good results buffing if you're using a general purpose wheel that's got who-knows-what on it. You need a seperate, clean, dedicated buff for each polishing compound you use. Otherwise you'll have residue from the coarser stuff stuck in there when you try to buff with finer compound.

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