S.Dodding Posted January 24, 2006 Report Share Posted January 24, 2006 (edited) Uglogirl is partly right in what she says. If you remove the first fret, and put a nut exactly there, it will shorten the scale length by exactly that amount, the only problem is that all the dot markers will all be one place out. While this doesn't help with all the other problems doing this on an existing guitar will create, I thought the first particular point should be cleared up. This isn't comparable to fitting random a new neck to a warmoth body or something, this is a mathmatically solid. 25.5 minus 1.43 (the length from the nut to the first fret) = 24.069 So we take a 24.069" scale length and work out the distance to the first fret, you'll find that it's exactly the same as the distance from the first fret on a 25.5 inch scale length from the first to the second fret. First off, the distance from the first fret to the second fret on a 25.5 inch scale length is 1.351" So now to work out the where the first fret on a 24.069" scale length is from first principles. 24.069 times 25.4 (to convert to mm) 611.3526 611.3526/17.817 (rule of 17) = 34.313 34.313 which converts to 1.351" which tallies with with where the second fret is on a 25.5 inch scale length. Therefore it does modify the scale length. If you read up on it, the simple theory of the rule of 17 proves this anyway, simply by how it is actually used to work out fret distances. Feel free to try it for all the other frets, but you'll find the result is the same. The bridge will still be situated in the right place also Edited January 24, 2006 by S.Dodding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglogirl Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Well... I worked on this for 4 hours tonight - I filed the floyd locknut until it looked like it would work, then I cut the wide slot for it at the former first fret position using a mini router freehand, a hacksaw and a file. OMG It worked! I installed the nut and the E string rubbed the back of the fretboard as expected so I filed a slope from the back of the nut to the beginning of the peghead and it all works great now. Tuning it is fine because the string rests on the front slot of the floyd... then I just lock it and it doesn't change pitch. The Floyd nut is way ugly for sure... I just had a ugly gold one around and I think a black one would be least obtrusive. The whole neck/peghead thing is not really as ugly as I thought it might be either..not really that weird. yay. I'll post pictures when the whole guitar is doneThe neck is a maple/ebony MM with big jumbo frets and really feels pretty nice though I haven't really played it yet. $75 VS $200 to Warmoth. I 'm happy. thanks for the mathematical underpinnings validating my intuition to S. Dodding too. Kiira Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edslides Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Well... I worked on this for 4 hours tonight - I filed the floyd locknut until it looked like it would work, then I cut the wide slot for it at the former first fret position using a mini router freehand, a hacksaw and a file. OMG It worked! I installed the nut and the E string rubbed the back of the fretboard as expected so I filed a slope from the back of the nut to the beginning of the peghead and it all works great now. Tuning it is fine because the string rests on the front slot of the floyd... then I just lock it and it doesn't change pitch. The Floyd nut is way ugly for sure... I just had a ugly gold one around and I think a black one would be least obtrusive. The whole neck/peghead thing is not really as ugly as I thought it might be either..not really that weird. yay. I'll post pictures when the whole guitar is doneThe neck is a maple/ebony MM with big jumbo frets and really feels pretty nice though I haven't really played it yet. $75 VS $200 to Warmoth. I 'm happy. thanks for the mathematical underpinnings validating my intuition to S. Dodding too. Kiira kiira, my name is barefoot ed ( i gave the advice about the razor blade) have i got the bridge for you. it is a washburn tremolo with fine tuners individual intonation, adj. height and requires no routing. if you WILL use this, you can have it. FREE. if any future mods or changes become necessary, the most work you will have to do is unscrew 4 screws. move the bridge and screw it back down.e mail me if you are interested............edslides13@yahoo.com. hope to see your mutation work out.i love it when the naysayers are made to eat humble pie! i have a project goin on myself. i show you mine if you.............keep slidin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglogirl Posted January 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 kiira, my name is barefoot ed ( i gave the advice about the razor blade) have i got the bridge for you. it is a washburn tremolo with fine tuners individual intonation, adj. height and requires no routing. if you WILL use this, you can have it. FREE. if any future mods or changes become necessary, the most work you will have to do is unscrew 4 screws. move the bridge and screw it back down.e mail me if you are interested............edslides13@yahoo.com. hope to see your mutation work out.i love it when the naysayers are made to eat humble pie! i have a project goin on myself. i show you mine if you.............keep slidin Hiya ed! I've heard of those tremelos... but alas I'll have to refuse your kind offer because I already have a Kahler flyer on this guitar. I love Kahlers... hate Floyds! I finished the wiring yesterday... strung up the E string and worked on the action some... I will need to work on the nut action some so I'll wait until the black locknut I bought arrives. The wiring is impossible... the frankencaster from steve aholas blue guitar site. It's WAYYYY too complicated so I'll put in something simpler later. peace, love and soul Kiira Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamelessOne Posted January 27, 2006 Report Share Posted January 27, 2006 I'm a bit late getting here, but i am confirming that moving the nut to the 1st fret position WILL work. On any (properly fretted) guitar, the 12 fret is exactly 1/2 of the way between the nut and bridge. Just like the 13 fret (the new 12 fret) is exactly halfway between the 1 fret (new nut) and the bridge. Or the 24 fret is exactly 1/2 of the way between the 12 fret and the bridge. Theoretically, 12 frets is one octave. To raise the frequency of a vibrating string an octave, you need to make it vibrate twice as fast. To do this, you must reduce the length along which it vibrates by 1/2. So, 12 frets up from any fret is exactly halfway between it and the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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