Guitarfrenzy Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 consider it bookmarked. What I mean about the "feitenizing" thing (and GF already knows) is that for a "Buzz Feiten" mod, they move the nut location to enhance the tuning. Well, I was thinking : Leave the nut, then find the location where the feiten nut would be moved to, then cut a fret-slot there, and install a fret. The original nut then becomes a string spacer right behind the new zero fret in the feiten position. Kind of like a gizmo called enut (look that up if curious). Exactly, but like we both know, you must use different tuning offsets known as "Stretch Tuning", instead of the old way of intonating a guitar if using this method. waitwaitwait. how does moving the nut do anything except put the guitar out of tune? how does that enhance it? The lower frets 1-4 when fretted are slightly sharp, so if you move the nut up approx. 2mm, you eliminate this problem. Read this link on eNut like Soapbar already mentioned to get a better understanding of what I'm talking about. Actually you can see that one of the methods is exactly what you want, a zero fret right in front of the nut. I thought the Feiten nut only 'adjusts' the three upper strings? Still, if you combine your idea with a thinner nut, that should give plenty of room to add a zero fret. I'm wondering though, why not just glue in a piece of fretboard wood in order to extent the fretboard a bit? --the joint/gap will be where the fret insets anyway. And you could add the string-guide nut at the end of the extension. On an LP-type guitar, the added piece could fit in to where the existing nut goes, and placing the string-guide nut shouldn't interfere with truss rod access either. As far as I know all Buzz Feiten guitars have the nut moved forward appoximately 2mm toward the bridge, that means both sides equally. You still have to "Stretch Tune" the bridge, which will give you a very well playing guitar. You may have been thinking of PRS guitars, which has been moving the bass side forward at a slight angle, not the treble side, to compensate, for years now. They just don't advertise it, but I read an article where he explained it. Basically though, the nut isn't parallel with the first fret the way they do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Feiten's but one in a long line of compensated nuts, although (apparently) it's more than that, including a moved bridge and tuning strings quite specifically. Alternately, there's a great article on nut compensation on the MIMF: http://mimf.com/nutcomp/ As for tuning, relative tuning = the way forward. Check Ryanguitars.com for a good way to tune your guitar: http://www.ryanguitars.com/News%20and%20Ev...uning_Terms.htm Essentially, the the idea is to tune strings by fretting a note and comparing to a harmonic, which takes the nut out of the equation somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Read this link on eNut like Okay, let me get this straight...essentially, this enut IS a zero fret (at least the metal version), right? So what's to stop us from taking a fret, filing off the tang and doing pretty much the same thing? That would cost, let's see, slightly less than $16... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Feiten's but one in a long line of compensated nuts, although (apparently) it's more than that, including a moved bridge and tuning strings quite specifically. Alternately, there's a great article on nut compensation on the MIMF: http://mimf.com/nutcomp/ As for tuning, relative tuning = the way forward. Check Ryanguitars.com for a good way to tune your guitar: http://www.ryanguitars.com/News%20and%20Ev...uning_Terms.htm Essentially, the the idea is to tune strings by fretting a note and comparing to a harmonic, which takes the nut out of the equation somewhat. Nice links Mattia. On Buzz Feiten tuning moded acoustic guitars, yes your going to have to move the bridge, but from what I understand, most electric guitar bridges should be fine and only need adjusting at the saddles for "Stretch Tuning". Dan Erlewine's "How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great", has alternative methods for tuning, which work very well in just itself, just like your showing in that RyanGuitars.com link. I still highly recommend that book, it's probably the best out there on guitar setup! Read this link on eNut like Okay, let me get this straight...essentially, this enut IS a zero fret (at least the metal version), right? So what's to stop us from taking a fret, filing off the tang and doing pretty much the same thing? That would cost, let's see, slightly less than $16... Nothings stopping you. In fact, that's what Soapbar was getting at when he mentioned leaving the nut alone and adding the zero nut in front of it. Next question though, how far exactly? Well now we let the cat out of the bag and everyone knows the proper distance. lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Read this link on eNut like Okay, let me get this straight...essentially, this enut IS a zero fret (at least the metal version), right? So what's to stop us from taking a fret, filing off the tang and doing pretty much the same thing? That would cost, let's see, slightly less than $16... Nothing. Though you may want to the tuning offsets to get the most out of the system. Apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 I actually played around with this...pulled a brass fret out of a beater acoustic neck and slipped it next to my telecaster's nut...one thing I noticed was how the open strings really rang out...I didn't bother to go much farther than that though, like try to get it perfectly in tune, mainly because I didn't do a careful filing of the fret... My interest was more to help me decide on ordering normal fretboards from Stewmac, or go ahead and order ther zero fret ready boards from LMI. Think I'm going to go with LMI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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