Willin Posted February 25, 2006 Report Posted February 25, 2006 Hey, guys! I am about to shield my strat as per the instructions at guitarnuts.com. The problem is that I bought solid core 20 gauge wire at radio shack yesterday and I think I may need braided wire instead? Will solid core do the trick as well or am I digging a hole for myself by using it? Also, I have 18 gauge braided audio cable and I was wondering if that would be a suitable alternative or should I take the trip back to radio shack to get some regular braided wire? Thanks a bunch for responses! Quote
Thoughtless 7 Posted February 25, 2006 Report Posted February 25, 2006 (edited) There was a discussion on this ages ago and i think someone said it wouldn't make much difference except that braided is usually easier to bend without breaking. I THINK anyway. {EDIT} Damn spelling. Edited February 25, 2006 by Thoughtless 7 Quote
GregP Posted February 25, 2006 Report Posted February 25, 2006 On paper, braided is more "efficient". However, in addition to the fact that solid will still work and it's not likely you'd notice the difference anyhow: The wires on the inside of your guitar are all short little jobbies. With that short a distance to travel, the electrons aren't going to be inconvenienced by travelling through a solid core rather than a braided one. They wouldn't MAKE solid core wire if it didn't work. Greg Quote
Willin Posted February 25, 2006 Author Report Posted February 25, 2006 Since I have 18 gauge speaker wire that is braided can I just use that? Or is that a no-no? Quote
JohnH Posted February 25, 2006 Report Posted February 25, 2006 I think it will make no difference at all to your sound, whatever wire you use in the guitar, and whatever gage it is. The subtleties of electron flow in different wire configurations are not sugnifacnt at the tiny currents and moderate frequencies within a guitar. Solid can be easier to strip and shape. Braided is more resistant to breakage if, like me, you want to keep changing the wiring. Even a very thin wire has negligible resistance compared to the pickups. Wires which go outside of the shielded cavity, to a jack socket, or to something like an Les Paul 3-way switch should be screened however. John Quote
TeiscosRock Posted February 26, 2006 Report Posted February 26, 2006 18ga is mighty heavy for a guitar cavity, imho, but you can use it. I rewired my Telecaster and Teisco using 22 guage stranded wire, but I used 18 guage for the bridge-ground connections, because I'm voodoo like that. Quote
lovekraft Posted February 26, 2006 Report Posted February 26, 2006 You can use 10AWG solid core Romex™ if you want (and have room), and it won't ever make an audible difference. Let's put this myth to rest, so we can go back to obsessing about NOS tubes and vintage caps! Quote
TeiscosRock Posted February 26, 2006 Report Posted February 26, 2006 (edited) True that. Listen to LK! Doesn't matter what you use. My only preference is stranded and between 20-14gauge. Other than that, who cares? Make sure it's easy to work, won't break with normal movement, and won't make a mess of you cavity. Nothing ticks me off more than a messy electronics cavity. Oh yeah, and as for my own answer to your orignal question: Yes, by all means use the 20ga solid core wire, it makes no difference. Just try not to sling the harness around by the wires or anything. Solid core WILL break at solder points if it moves too much. Edited February 26, 2006 by TeiscosRock Quote
jnewman Posted February 26, 2006 Report Posted February 26, 2006 (edited) Solid core does have one big advantage - it stays where you put it . If you bend it, it stays bent, while stranded wire has a tendency to try to be as straight as possible (i.e. big wide curves, not tight bends). (Edited for spelling) Edited February 26, 2006 by jnewman Quote
j. pierce Posted February 28, 2006 Report Posted February 28, 2006 Something I recently discovered is "pre-tinned" stranded wire - I got some from Small Bear electronics, when I was ordering parts for some pedals I've been building. It's great stuff, it's flexible without breaking like stranded, but being pre-tinned, it's got just firm enough to stay where you want it. It makes connections easier, and unlike the stuff I end up with from radioshack, the insulation can handle being next to a hot soldering iron for more than a second when you're trying to get something stuck to the back of a pot. Quote
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