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Posted

use a relatively low wattage, or else you could over heat/destroy parts

The only problem with low wattage is you cant get pots hot enough to get the solder to stick. I have a combo. One the switches between 15and 35 W and another designed for stained glass that is about 100W just for pots. I cant stand waiting for a pot to get hot enough to stick, its a pain.

Posted

use a relatively low wattage, or else you could over heat/destroy parts

The only problem with low wattage is you cant get pots hot enough to get the solder to stick. I have a combo. One the switches between 15and 35 W and another designed for stained glass that is about 100W just for pots. I cant stand waiting for a pot to get hot enough to stick, its a pain.

NO NO NO NO NO!!!

100 watts is too freakin' hot to be soldering ANY electronic component with!!

If you can't solder to the back of a pot with less than 25 watts, you need to practice some more and learn to prep your surfaces. Otherwise, use a crimp lug like Lovekraft does for his grounds.

You can pick up a nice little Weller soldering station at Sears for about $50. You don't need a digital station unless you're building effects with extremely fragile discrete components. They also have some GREAT rosin-core solder at Sears. Not quite as good as Kester, but worlds better than RadioShack solder.

Posted (edited)

Anything that plugs straight into the wall, with no controller, is a waste of time and money, seriously. I dont care how much power it has, in my line of work your iron is your most important tool

The one erikbojerik posted is great, but perhaps a little overkill, but I use a duratech 50watter with hollow tip(a must).

The element response times are fantastic, my father bought exactly one the same for home use, and at work he uses an iron he built from two $600+ ones he tore apart. So if he thinks my cheap duratech is good, it really must be.

I've found 380 degrees C to be a good temperature for just about anything, from backs of pots, right through to delicate IC legs.

I assemble custom controllers for a living, so I do know what I'm talking about and since I got my iron I haven't overheated a single part, and I've probably made 10000 joints with it.

Shop around, and get a cheap temperature controlled iron, you wont regret it.

Edit : a 2.1mm chisel tip is the best size you can have IMHO

Edited by Mr Alex
Posted

I got a nice 25W Weller with just one setting: "on". Added to that a standalone "coil"-type stand/sponge (you don't wanna use one of those goofy little metal things that you "lie" your iron on!).

Iron: $20 CDN

Stand: $10 CDN

Total cost: $30 CDN. I saw a decent enough soldering station for $90 CDN, and it seemed like a good deal, but then I thought about it: cheap, but 3 X more expensive than what I really needed!

I've done a decent amount of soldering with it, and it's holding up great.

Greg

Posted

NO NO NO NO NO!!!

100 watts is too freakin' hot to be soldering ANY electronic component with!!

I use a touch and go approach and it works for me. To each his own. I just get tired of solder just smearing around and never getting hot enough to pool. (its not the sticking thats the issue)

Posted

Low is definitely the way to go...but this is what I use...

solderingstationts1400.jpg

This kind of thing is great, heats fast and stays hot to exactly the temp you set...mine will even turn itself off after a set time...so I don't have to freak out that the house has burnt down!!

But for general wiring, a simple low wattage iron is the way to go. Keep the tip clean and coated in solder or it wont work and practice. Soldering things like pots do require preping by sanding it down where you want to join. More heat maybe appropriate (mine goes up to 400o) but is very rare, even for jobs like this...100 WATTS!!...it will be impossible for any electronics (easily destroy the components and burn tracks off boards) and probably melt the insulation off most wires, even causing hidden future shorts...

And...don't even think of going within 3 feet of a pickup with a 100watt iron...that would melt the coil in a flash...even wiring to the pickup itself (not the winding wire) can transfer enough heat to break this stuff with a total rewind the most likely result.

The benefits of a soldering station is that the "pencil" is light and very easy to handle and the heat is always constant and adjustable...some aren't that dear, compared to buying another kind of power tool, if you are going to do a bit of work...this one about $A150. But even with the best tools, it is always technique, soldering is no different... pete

Posted (edited)

I agree with the comments about a temperature controlled station. Spend the money once for something decent, and you'll save yourself a lot of headaches. I always liked Wellers, but I use Xytronic 168-3C. It's a fantastic little station for about $100. Tips can be a bit tough to find, but I know All Electronics has them (that's where I got the station, too). It's got a 45 second warm up time, so I usually turn it on, go wet the sponge, and it's ready when I come back.

I use a Metcal MX-500 at work, which is just awesome, but it's definitely overkill for most hobbiests.

Edited by fookgub
Posted

I agree with the comments about a temperature controlled station. Spend the money once for something decent, and you'll save yourself a lot of headaches. I always liked Wellers, but I use Xytronic 168-3C. It's a fantastic little station for about $100. Tips can be a bit tough to find, but I know All Electronics has them (that's where I got the station, too). It's got a 45 second warm up time, so I usually turn it on, go wet the sponge, and it's ready when I come back.

I use a Metcal MX-500 at work, which is just awesome, but it's definitely overkill for most hobbiests.

Yeah, I cut my teeth on a $10,000 full PACE PRC system about 10 years ago...overkill is an understatement with what we're doing here. The thing was designed for production rework and half the time I was looking through a microscope at the little discretes.

But seriously, there's no need to go overboard on guitar electronics. Like I said, I use a little Weller station I picked up at Sears for $50. It doesn't have a digital temp readout, but it has a 10-50 watt rheostat to control the heat. Perfect for what we're doing here--and Weller makes some damn fine tips for hobbyists and pros alike.

Posted

If you're in the States (lower 48), Circuit Specialists has a nice litlle solder station for about forty bucks:

Auto-Temp Electronic Temperature Controlled Soldering Station (379UL)

I've been using one for about a year and a half - smooth operation, no problems, it even "travels" well (yeah, I pack it up and use it for field work when necessary).

Be sure to check their current promotional special - they usually have a free multimeter or a hand tool set for free if you spend over $50. I bought some extra tips, and got a very nice multimeter.

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