yorgo Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 I got one cheap and was going to do it as a project but was wondering what actally is aquilted top? I know a flame top has an extra piece of wood on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 (edited) Flame and quilt refer to the figuring in the wood (or the top) theres a thread going right now that that compares some of the best quilt and flame witnessed by PG's members Link> http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...topic=22208&hl= Edited March 7, 2006 by Nitefly SA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 TOTALLY wrong buddy. Flamed does not mean there's another piece on top, that's called a cap The "flame" (as well as quilt) refers to the "pattern" that that cap wood has. If it looks liek a tiger, it's flamed, if it looks like a bunch of waves, it's quilt. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwhiteandthemaple Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 (edited) You can learn alot about woods from this site. Has pictures and explanations that go with them. Link check the maples under section "lightwood" you'll see what verho and nightfly mean. Also, check if that "cap" is a veneer or not (veneer usually means very thin. around 1/16") A maple "top" refers to a maple cap which is much thicker that could go around 1"- 5/16",etc. (dont quote me on the numbers here..) much thicker than veneer... -IR oh, and also, there is a slight variation between curly and flamed maple check this page Edited March 7, 2006 by redwhiteandthemaple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 You can learn alot about woods from this site. Has pictures and explanations that go with them. Link check the maples under section "lightwood" you'll see what verho and nightfly mean. Also, check if that "cap" is a veneer or not (veneer usually means very thin. around 1/16") A maple "top" refers to a maple cap which is much thicker that could go around 1"- 5/16",etc. (dont quote me on the numbers here..) much thicker than veneer... -IR oh, and also, there is a slight variation between curly and flamed maple check this page An 'average' flat cap is around the 3/8"-1/4" mark, for carving we're looking at 5/8" thick wood as a minimum. You can do more, but you don't need more for a carved top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorgo Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 okay. good. Thanks. Next question. There are some scuffs on the guitar. If I totally decided to refinish the guitar(now I know this is blaspamhy) , can I just paint solid colors over it. will I ruin the body since the veneer is so thin? I don't know if that was clear or not so I'll try to completely confuse you 1. Is it possible to refinish a quilt top? 2. Is it possible to refinish a quilt top and paint solid colors over it covering up the quilt? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Refinishing a veneer is absolutely impossible. The dyed would have been sucked up by the wood that it would have gone through to the otherside. NO point basically. ITs better off to sand off the veneer, primer then paint, then clear. But you can still finishing a solid colour on top of a venner if you want. But you still have to sand off the original finsh flat before daring to try anything. Hope it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorgo Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 But you can still finishing a solid colour on top of a venner if you want. But you still have to sand off the original finsh flat before daring to try anything. Hope it helps [/quote how can I sand the veneer to a flat colour if the dye goes straight through??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Just sand everything level to at least 320 grit, so you've got a nice, even surface to paint on, spray your opaque finish coats on that, finish with clearcoats. Seriously, read the old discussions on veneering (and the tutorials on the main PG website), as well as the pinned finishing tutorials. It'll help. Lots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ledzendrix1128 Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 by flat i believe (correct me if im wrong) that you just need to sand the finish thats on the guitar till its flat (as in level) and flat (as in shininess). Ive refinished a few crappy guitars and there was no need to sand it all the way back down to the wood if you are painting with solid colors. You are basically going to need to sand only the finish, keeping it level (dont focus with the sand paper too much on one area or you will get a dip in the final finish). This will give your color coats something to stick to, if you just paint over top of the unsanded clearcoat, then the paint will probably peel or flake off. Someone correct me if im wrong, but this has worked for me on a few guitars now...I hope im right.. .lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorgo Posted March 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Okay sounds good. So I don't need any chemical (or heat gun)to remove the clearcoat? Just a good sanding will do it? I guess that is more for when you have lots of paint? Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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