6 Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 I was wondering if there is a "poor-man"s way to install frets. Obviously using an arbor press with a caul that has a corresponding radius is the right way to do it. But are there cheaper ways of doing it? Can they just be hammered in, and then gone over for the details? ~006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Um, hammering is the traditional method, and works great. Some very good repairmen/builders swear by it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 So I really don't have to radius the frets beforehand, do I? Or would it make my life easier if I did? If I must, I was going to do the PG.com tutorial on making my own fret radius device using the two planks of wood, and a ruler to create the radius, and then making slot in the curved peice to fit the fretwire in. Unless, of course, I don't need to radius them, persay. ~006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Black Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Assuming that your fretboard is already at the correct radius, there is absolutely no reason why you would need a caul or anything else to put the frets in. You don't need a fret bender either. Using your hands (gloves help, by the way), carefully bend your fret wire so that it has a tighter radius than your fret board. Then, cut your frets slightly long. Tap in the frets with a hammer (a brass hammer is traditional to prevent maring but you could use a plastic covered hammer). Begin by taping the ends in - then tap the center and the fret will seat itself nicely, provide the kerf is slightly narrower than the fret tang. I use a little Titebond glue in kerf. If the fret pops up, that means your kerf is oversized and then you might want to use a slightly radiused block to hold the fret(s) in place until the glue sets up. I highly recommend that you buy yourself a radius sanding block (Stewart MacDonald - about 15 bucks) for sanding the frets and for using as a glue caul. Of course, your going to need some files to dress the frets and a nippers to trim them. I highly recommend getting the fretting book that Stew Mac sells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 You HAVE TO pre-radius your frets (a little more arch than your fingerboard), but you certainly DO NOT need a caul to press them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughes Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 im giving a flat radius fretboard a try, Neal Moser says they play like butterand alot easier to make if you arent sure how to make a radiused sanding block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 You still want to ever-so-slightly pre-radius your frets. Even if your fingerboard is flat. As to whether or not it plays great, all I know is that chording is much more comfortable on a radiussed board, a radiussed sanding block only costs like 15 bucks or something. Using them is dead simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Churchyard Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 You don't need a fret bender either. Using your hands (gloves help, by the way), carefully bend your fret wire so that it has a tighter radius than your fret board. Then, cut your frets slightly long. Really? Just with the hands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 12, 2006 Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 CAREFULLY is the key word there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Posted March 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2006 Well, I found a guy that will make me a new fretboard. A blank ebony one, 25.5" scale length, 1-11/16" width at nut, compound 12" to 14" radius, slotted for frets, basically a blank replica of the one I have on my Jackson right now. That way all I have to do is route for the inlay, glue it in, sand it down, glue in the frets, and it's done. ~006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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