liquid_gabe Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 What bit are you all using for the angled router scarf jig? I have a planer bit which, though wonderful for planing, seems to grab the very tip of the neck and do some terrible tear outs. Quote
TonyB7539 Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 put a sacrificial board on the end to prevent tear out and remove it when done if possible. I would just hold a scrap board tight up against the board you are working on. Quote
Setch Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 I just use a 5/8th flat bit with a 1/4" shank in my Trend T5 router. Lots of small cuts it works a treat. I do occasionally get a little tear out at the very edges of the feathered end, but these usually get trimmed away when I join on the peghead ears. Quote
erikbojerik Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 What Setch said....take off small amounts in many passes. Also, glue up the scarf joint before doing most of the shaping of your neck, and that way the tear-out will be in a waste area that will be removed when you shape the back. Quote
Mattia Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 I'm using a stanley block plane. Sometimes the #5. Mmmm...handplanes. This message brought to you by the department for the promotion of hand tool use. (but I still do a fair bit of thicknessing with my router. For solidbodies. When I need to remove a lot of stock) Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 Basically, I use the jig that is displayed in this video you can download or view at my site. Here's the link .. Using the Scarf Joint Jig!! It will give you all the information you need on how to use it, and how to make multiple passes like Setch suggested. I just use a regular straight bit with this jig also. It works great if you have everything setup correctly, and take your time. Good luck.. Quote
liquid_gabe Posted March 16, 2006 Author Report Posted March 16, 2006 I'm using a stanley block plane. Sometimes the #5. Mmmm...handplanes. I ended up with a #5 also, but never managed to get it quite square. I prefer working with hand tools myself, but have a hard time being accurate with them. Quote
Setch Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 I'm not averse to using my Sergant or Record no.5's, and I've actually used them in tandem with the router jig. If theres relatively little to remove after rough cutting, I clamp the blank to the jig, and put the jig in the bench vice. Then, I rest the sole of the plane on one side of the jig, and plane at 45 degrees across the blank until the joint is nice and level. You have to be a bit carefull not to plane the jig, but this is pretty easy with a scarysharp blade and a well tuned plane. Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 I agree if you can do it with handplanes and get accurate results, then that's what I'd do. I've also used a belt sander with a jig I built to hold it at the correct angle, and it works great also. So many ways to do this, but ultimately, I always start by bandsawing the angle first, then using either one of these mentioned methods to finish it up. You don't even have to use a bandsaw either, a handsaw will work also. Quote
egdeltar Posted March 16, 2006 Report Posted March 16, 2006 Basically, I use the jig that is displayed in this video you can download or view at my site. Here's the link .. Using the Scarf Joint Jig!! It will give you all the information you need on how to use it, and how to make multiple passes like Setch suggested. I just use a regular straight bit with this jig also. It works great if you have everything setup correctly, and take your time. Good luck.. I use the same jig. Ive had the best results using a 4 flute end mill using small passes. Im not too good with a hand planer, I like things that make noise! Quote
GregP Posted March 17, 2006 Report Posted March 17, 2006 I was about to ask how the jig works (or if there was a link to the jig thread), but that video cleared it up. I was a bit confused, though: didn't you just re-attach them so that they're still parallel? I can't see an angle being created! It should end up being one of the original flat surfaces + one of the "bevels" in order to create an angled scarf joint for an angled headstock. Greg Quote
Guitarfrenzy Posted March 17, 2006 Report Posted March 17, 2006 I was about to ask how the jig works (or if there was a link to the jig thread), but that video cleared it up. I was a bit confused, though: didn't you just re-attach them so that they're still parallel? I can't see an angle being created! It should end up being one of the original flat surfaces + one of the "bevels" in order to create an angled scarf joint for an angled headstock. Greg First off, that's not me in the video.. lol Just a short clip I had of the scarf joint jig being used. They used it to glue two boards together to lengthen it, so the only difference is that with building guitars, you use it to create a angled headstock. Example below of a neck I recently made, you should be able to see the scarf joint angle. Quote
GregP Posted March 17, 2006 Report Posted March 17, 2006 Righto! For some reason, I thought it was you in the video! All clear. Greg Quote
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