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Ebonizing Using Vinegar


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I read a few posts about using vinegar to ebonize wood. Well, last night, I stuffed a mason jar full of 0000 steel wool, poured a bottle of white vinegar in and closed the top. That was about 15 hours ago. I expected to see some change in the color of the vinegar this morning, but it's still as clear as it was originally. Is there something I am missing in this formula? I know you're supposed to leave it for a few days, but I expected to see some change...

Thanks!

J

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I think you are missing this in your formula....

Seriously, there are a lot of things you can use to ebonize woo, but this is the best thing you can get. I have used 100% puse stain and it doesn't cover as good as iot should.

Have you used this stuff before? I want the board to be JET BLACK! Also... will this stuff stain the shell too? I don't want that.

J

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Yes it will stain the shell too. If it is shell what you got...

I have abelone shell... though I haven't put it in yet. Should I stain the board black and then put the shell in? Or somehow try to mask the shell off? I could drill the holes for the shell (dot inlays) and then stain and then put the shell in. The only problem I see with that is when I go to sand the shell down a bit, wouldn't I sand off the stain? What should I do?

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I read a few posts about using vinegar to ebonize wood. Well, last night, I stuffed a mason jar full of 0000 steel wool, poured a bottle of white vinegar in and closed the top. That was about 15 hours ago. I expected to see some change in the color of the vinegar this morning, but it's still as clear as it was originally. Is there something I am missing in this formula? I know you're supposed to leave it for a few days, but I expected to see some change...

Thanks!

J

I made such stain an year ago.

It needs time.

I used crystalized vinegar acid that I dissolved in water. (crystalized vinegar acid is used for cooking here).

Even though the solution was really strong and concentrated, it took the acid 5 days to dissolve the steel wool. The result was a dark gray liquid. I never used it on wood, though. I gave away the idea since it looked and smelled bad.

If you leave it for more than a week, it will become grey/white and a clump of hard white carbide (or something like that) will form at the bottom.

Just buy wood stain from the DIY store.

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I've done it, and it works; some vinegar, bit of steel wool, and give it a few days. Make sure it's oil-free steel wool, because otherwise you're in for a slow time. The finer the better (the faster it'll dissolve) as well. It's not a very controlled thing, though; the irons you get could be Fe++ or Fe+++ (if I'm remembering high school chem right), meaning either a greyish or a reddish solution, in part depending on the oxygen content. I forget what the other 'straight up' chemical that can be used to darken wood is, but I can look it up if you want (I want to say permanganate, but that seems wrong, somehow. Dichromate?).

You need to filter the stuff, and then test it on scrap; what it does is react with the tannins in the wood, so it reacts differently depending on species (maple has very little, mahogany or oak a lot of tannin) and the individual piece. It's cheap, easy, and works pretty well. This said, I doubt I'll ever bother using it again.

Honestly, if your bit of ebony has streaks, use it as is. It's wood. A natural material. Accept it. Don't fake jet-blackness with stains. IMO.

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