Maiden69 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I wanted to do that with my Epi, BUT, you will need to change the angle of the carve, big time in order to attain a decent angle on the strings to the body. If you use the regular angle the change will be too steep. Just look at a Carvin california and you will see what I mean, the top is semi flat... In order to have a nice rounded top like the LP, and have a nice string thru the top would have to be about 1"thickand the pick up plane would have to end at the point were the strings will go into the body, with a recessed TOM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted August 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 (edited) That's pretty much why I threw the string thru idea right out of the window after thinking about it. I'm recessing the bridge, because I like the look of them. Wrap around it is I guess, I really fancy the Pigtail wrap arounds on Stew-Mac. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...und_Bridge.html I could probaly get away without recessing that bridge too too much. It's pretty low & sleek as it is, once I order it and get the full dimensions i'll have to see. Oh yeah, i'll also be carving the top like those Carvins, or pretty much like PRS. Peace, Chris Edited August 22, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussiepappy Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I know this question is a little late in the stage of this build. What is the best way to route out the neck pocket with the required 3.5 deg angle included? This is the one step on the body build I cant quite work out. Would appreciate any help, thanks! I know this question is a little late in the stage of this build. What is the best way to route out the neck pocket with the required 3.5 deg angle included? This is the one step on the body build I cant quite work out. Would appreciate any help, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custom22 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I know this question is a little late in the stage of this build. What is the best way to route out the neck pocket with the required 3.5 deg angle included? This is the one step on the body build I cant quite work out. Would appreciate any help, thanks! I know this question is a little late in the stage of this build. What is the best way to route out the neck pocket with the required 3.5 deg angle included? This is the one step on the body build I cant quite work out. Would appreciate any help, thanks! I know many make the angle on the neck, rather thanin the pocket. I'm not sure witt LPs though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Well, I know that you can set-up a jig to route the neck pocket it an angle. On this build though, I didn't route the neck pocket angle, it's going to have a flat tenon & mortise, & i'm going to recess the bridge so it solves the action problems that are associated with non angled neck pockets & tall bridges. You can do either a jig, http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=17871&hl= Or cut the angle into the neck itself (there's also a few 'nother alternatives in this thread) http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=18613&hl= Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussiepappy Posted September 16, 2006 Report Share Posted September 16, 2006 Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking about putting the angle on the neck but didnt know if that would affect the heel placement at all. I think it will be best to put the angle in the neck pocket. Thanks for your help Chris and Custom!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 I really wouldn't do the cut the angle into the neck idea if I were you. After having done it on a guitar or two, I can say it's better to make a template for the neck route, then angle it up and route away. I say this cause if you angle the neck, and it's tapered, then when it sits in a non-angled pocket, since it IS angled at the top where it meets, because of the taper, it'll be wider than where the bottom of the neck meets. Leaving a little unsightly gap... which you can obviously fill in... but I won't recommend it. Chris PS: How's the progress on this going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 I agree with Chris, for this reason I prefer to angle the mortice rathert han the tenon. Also, a Les Paul with no neck angle will look peculiar, because the neck angle is integral to the top carve on a LP. I'd put in the extra work to use a regular TOM and an angled neck, or you'll have some serious head scratching to make things work aesthetically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 Don't worry, i've got it all figured out, I hope. Actually, I still have room to angle the mortise if I wanted to, and I may as well just end up doing that instead of recessing the bridge, I still don't know yet. I guess I should get working on this again eh? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 You could put a 4.4 degree shim in the bottom of the mortice. Make sure it's perfect and fits damn snug, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 Don't worry, i've got it all figured out, I hope. Actually, I still have room to angle the mortise if I wanted to, and I may as well just end up doing that instead of recessing the bridge, I still don't know yet. I guess I should get working on this again eh? Chris I think the recessed TOM is a great idea. So much more comfortable than having the strings 3/4" off the body . The wraparound I got (not the stew mac one, mine is a brass badass copy) was too high to my liking. Check out the specs for height on the wraparound before you buy as it could be higher than a TOM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 (edited) I really don't understand how you end up with a gap when putting the angle in the pocket rather than the neck? Surely if you use a straight router bit, the bottom of the pocket will be at the correct angle (say 4 degrees) & the back of the pocket will be 90 degrees to the bottom (86 to the top). So, where's the gap coming from? The only way that I can see a gap appearing is if you use Drak's technique of routing the pocket level (so the sides are square) & then sanding the angle into the bottom....because then you'll be making the angle from the back to the bottom wider (eg. 94 degrees with a 4 degree neck angle)...But, if the tenon extends into the neck pickup route anyway, nobody will see it....or just cut the neck's heel straight. Edited October 10, 2006 by biliousfrog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 yes, that's exactly what Chris V was saying - if you use straight mortice, angled tenon, you'll have a gap, or have to trim the end of the tenon. It's no big deal to trim the end of the tenon, unless you're trying to squeeze a neck out of a smallish blank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted November 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 (edited) OK, here we go again since the other neck I built for this seemed to have just broke one day. Gluing up the scarf joint here, 15 degree angle. Another view of how I glue them up, it works awesome! Side view. You can also flip the way I do it and have it work just as well. Here's a side view of the scarf joint after I bandsawed the initial neck shape out. Stressing the importance of having good surface prep before gluing (flat, well sanded & clean surfaces). Also, it's basically seemless aside from the intersecting grain. Just a shot of the whole neck after bandsawing. I left a little bit more material around the headstock area as I wasnt sure at the time if I drew the headstock inline with the rest of the neck. I also left a bunch of material at the tenon end of the neck for the heel I had to glue on. Gluing on the neck heel. Got enough clamps? That's all for tonight. I'm sorry about the poor lighting in most of the pictures, I was halfway through installing new lights when I just gave up on that and started working on this. Tomr. I plan on cleaning up the neck profile, routing & installing the truss rod and possibly gluing on the fretboard. Also, althought it seems like i'm going backwards (i've built 3 necks for this already) I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm not there yet, but it's a good feeling to know that I will finish this (in under a year I hope ). Chris Edited November 12, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 G'day AlGee, Beautiful job there. how do you stop the scarf joint slipping as you clamp it? Doesn't the clamping pressure push the headstock part down across the neck part? Thanks, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 I personally let the glue set for 5-10 minutes before clamping, that way it doesn't go crazy the moment I start clamping. I also wedge an angled block cut at the angle of the scarf joint against the headstock to prevent it from slipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted November 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 (edited) Yeah, I do the same thing as Jon. If you let the glue 'tack' for 5 or 10 minutes you can usually clamp it without it going crazy. I also put on all the clamps loose before I applied any pressure on it, then started clamping down everything slowly. If you flip the whole thing over, you don't have to worry about slipping. Also, if you can see the spool clamp that clamps the headstock to the table, the edge hangs over so it stops the neck from sliding. I'll see if I can get a picture to explain it better. Chris Edited November 13, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted November 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 (edited) Just a few shots of the neck cleaned up for the most part. Except around the tenon part, but that doesnt really matter. This afternoon i'm going to be routing the truss rod channel, installing the truss rod and gluing on the fretboard hopefully. Chris Edited November 14, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 How do you rout your truss rod channel? I always do mine on the router table, but that would require not tapering the neck first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted November 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 Godin, I set up a fence on my workmate basically, it's been working great for me. Now, the reason I usually wait until AFTER I taper the neck because it allows me to find the exact center of the neck, and then I go from there. I'll take my digital calipers and measure where the two anchors will go, divide it by 2 and mark the exact centers. Then I take the truss rod, mark where the anchors will go (directly over the center of the neck), set the fence up and go from there. I could easily do it on the router table too, but I like to be extra certain the truss rod is dead center. Pet peeve I guess. I uploaded a picture just incase you didn't understand my explanation. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 (edited) Didn't really do as much as I wanted to today, but that's ok. I routed out for the truss rod, installed it and really quick start the tenon. Sorry about the pencil, I realized I left it on the neck after I took the pictures, oh well. By tomr, I should have the neck fitted (tenon done) and fretboard glued on. Then from there on it's a lot of measuring, theorizing and thinking. Chris Edited November 15, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted January 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 (edited) New beginning, new neck, new method to glue the neck to the body. I'm not going to use binding on the neck, I really like how the orange/brown grain looks on the egde of the fretboard. You'll see it once I get better pictures after I inlay the board. Chris Edited January 28, 2007 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Yay! I've really been waiting to see more progress on this build. Can't wait! CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 looking great so far when u gonna get mor epics up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted February 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 More pictures will be up this weekend. I'm going to be re-routing the neck pocket to accomodate the new neck, inlaying the fretboard & possibly start carving the top. We'll see how things go! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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