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Algee's Carved Top Lp


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Here's my latest project (I'll actually finish this one unlike my tele :D ) for ya's.

Specs:

  • 1-3/4" African mahogany body
  • 3/4" Curly maple top
  • Mahogany set neck
  • Indian Rosewood fretboard
  • Golden Age overwound humbuckers
  • Grover locking tuners
  • Trapezoid MOP inlays
  • Top dyed black, sanded back red and the neck and body will be sprayed with trans-red lacquer buffed to a high gloss
  • White body/fretboard/headstock binding

Here's all the woods, now i'm just waiting on the templates, as usual. :D

DSC021161.jpg

The body blank weighs a hefty 13 pounds, and the neck blank just over 5 pounds B)

I'm really disappointed in the neck blank. It's -very- rough cut, and I paid 55 bucks for it. For that kind of money, I expected it to be planed flat and ready for action, but I guess not. The neck blank cost almost as much as the body blank.

Chris

Edited by AlGeeEater
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The body blank weighs a hefty 13 pounds, and the neck blank just over 5 pounds :D

I'm hollowing out mine after I hoisted around the mahagony blank. :D Sounds like a great guitar. I'm doing a carve top (first project) as well. any tips on how to shape it?

-- Carl

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Carl, have you seen this?

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16098

Crafty, no that's not a huge crack, it's just a real looong dark strip of grain. I'll try to get a closer picture of it so you can see what I mean, but it's not a crack. I don't think Larry would send me a blank with a crack in it, and I'd send it right back for a new one if it did. Also, i'm not using 'locking tuners' per se, just the grover 'locking tuners', they're not sperzel locking tuners or anything.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,...r_Machines.html

Edited by AlGeeEater
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Also, i'm not using 'locking tuners' per se, just the grover 'locking tuners', they're not sperzel locking tuners or anything.

Uh...so the Grover locking tuners aren't locking tuners, they're locking tuners? :D

Anyway, I use the Grovers on all of my guitars (I like the Grover minis, even for my 3x3s, don't like huge buttons), I refuse to use anything but locking tuners--no more string winding, so worrying about the wraps slipping, easier to string up too. I'm tempted to try the Wilkinson Ez-loks too.

Didn't see what happened to your tele --hope this one goes all the way for you!

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I'm with Mickguard on this one. I have sperzel locking tuners on my strat, and I wouldn't use anything less! String up is so much easier. Locking tuners, they aren't just for tremelos anymore.

Good luck with your build algee. Looks like it should be a sweet axe.

Edited by jer7440
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The Grover locking tuners are very good. They are very easy to load and much lighter than the Sperzels.

BTW - we sell neck blanks as well and they will come sanded smooth and not rough cut.

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Algee, looks like a great project. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

A word of caution from experience. I put a 5/8" top on my LP build because I got a great buy on some flame maple from a local supplier and that was the max thickness we could get from the board. A 5/8" top is cutting it very close to get a typical LP carve and not carve or sand through to the mahogany below. My carve came out great, but when I was sanding up through the grades, I sanded through the maple at both sides of the waist. Annoying because I couldn't then proceed with my intended amber finish. Current finish plan is to do a burst to hide the sand throughs.

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5/8s" should be fine, that leaves an 1/8" thickness once you've done the 1/2" carve. Your binding should conceal the thin edges of the maple. 1/2" is doable if you don't mind slightly shallow carve, and you're extra careful around the edges...

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Hey thanks for all the replies and encouragement!

Mickguard - What I mean is they're not locking tuners with thumbscrews or locking thing-a-ma-bobs B)

mammoth - thanks for the offer, but I got the board smooth this weekend. I really had no work to do today, so I went at the board with my planes, surform and sandpaper and it's perfectly flat. I love working with my hands :D It would have been nice to have a perfectly flat neck for that money, but i'll take it in stride.

John - I was planning on using a 5/8" top, but I think i'm going to swing the money for a 3/4" top. I wan't to leave about 1/4" on the side of the top, which would give me 2", hence a typical LP. I know Setch used a 5/8" top on his LP, and I could too probaly but i'll most likely end up telling Larry I want a 3/4" one :D

I'm STILL waiting for the templates, I haven't gotten an e-mail from Ronny on the shipping yet :D

Chris

Edited by AlGeeEater
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I can't imagine it'd be the without-binding width, since most people will either add a "ledge" after the fact, or reduce the width of the fingerboard itself to accomodate binding; the template seems to be for full neck, not fingerboard.

But, as mentioned, measuring is the way to go. :D

Greg

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Simple test: If the nut width is 43mm give or take 1mm, it includes binding.

Frankly, I'm certain it includes binding anyway - it's a *neck template* not a fretboard template. Tell you what, I'm so sure, go ahead and cut it. If I'm wrong, I'll shout you a new neck blank...

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Got the body routed flush today. Next on the agenda is cutting the mortise, doing the control cavity and possibly hollowing out a few parts of the body. Oh yeah, the channel for the wires and the control knob too! Before all that i've got to do a ton of hand sanding, despite how good it looks already.

DSC021331.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC02129.jpg

See ya guys!

Chris

Edited by AlGeeEater
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Here's a shot of the back, wetted with a damp rag. Sorry about the crap lighting, makes everything orangish.

DSC021351.jpg

I'm diggin' the black strip of dark grain in the back. I've also changed my mind on the finish, i'm going to be dying the top red, scraping the binding and keeping the mahogany natural. It should look killer with the black pore filler. :D

Edited by AlGeeEater
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  • 4 weeks later...

Got the top in today :D Now I can finally get some real work done on this sucker!

DSC021461.jpg

It's hard to take pics of the flame, but it looks a ton better in person of course. Also the bass side doesnt really look flamed but the camera was at an angle and it's still a little rough sawn in areas. When i get it sanded flat i'll take better pics!

Edited by AlGeeEater
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