Masking Using Contact Paper Vs Tape

[warped]

I'm about to do some masking on my body... guitar body... and have doing some research via the "search function"... 3M blue and/ or green masking tape has been mentioned a few times and seems like a clear choice. I also did a search on contact paper and it seems that it can be used to do masking. Using the clear seems like it would have some advantages, but a I have a few questions:

- Has anyone on here tried it? If so, would it be recomended?

- How "sticky" is the adhesive, will it pull off paint? I would be putting it over Duplicolor Metalcast (enamel?). I would guess that the longer it is on the greater the chance of it pulling the pain off. "Guess" being the key word.

- Would it be easier to use the 3M tapes mentioned above?

- I've also seen "pinstripe tape" at a local autoparts store, but it appears to be pretty permanent. I don't remember any brand names.

In my case I'm going to mask off most of the body in order to paint bevelled edges. I will probably cover most of the body with "kraft wrap" (brown paper used in our shipping dept.) and "seal" the edges.

[Mattia]

Pinstripe tape is generally anything but permanent. It goes on, you spray, you remove the tape. Tapes formulates as safe for finishes are always good, and this includes a variety of 3M tapes, both blue and 'regular flavour' masking tapes. Remember that, as a rule, the more pressure you apply to the tape, the harder it'll stick.

[lovekraft]

In my limited experience, contact paper is problematic. Check airbrush suppliers for "frisket paper" - it's low tack, and much less likely to either lift the paint or leave nasty adhesive behind to screw up your clear coat.

[warped]

I bought some of the blue 3M tape...

fun fact: There are different types of blue 3M tape, so look at the label.

I bought the one with the lightest adhesive (60 day?) it was $6 for 1" x 60 yd

[Southpa]

There are basic rules of thumb and dos and don'ts in regards to masking. I've taped up boats, guitars and cars and its all basically the same. If you are masking over existing paint make sure the paint is well cured. Thats a no-brainer. Regardless of what color/brand of tape you use, leave it on long enough and it WILL leave a residue. Remove the tape before the paint fully dries. If you let it dry totally then you could get chips coming off across the seam. If you want to avoid paint ridges you can curl up the tape edge then spray. The result is a gradual thinning or "feathering" of paint towards the edges. The trick is rolling it so your edge line is right where you want it. Its good to practice this technique on scrap before hand.

Edited April 5, 2006 by Southpa