Best Way To Trim Fingerboard Blank

[Deadwood jack]

Hi ya'll, I've just removed the fretboard on a strat neck as it is in need of a new one. I'm waiting on a Stew Mac board that comes already radiused and slotted. I am hoping someone can help me with the best way to trim the edges once the board is glued on. I can't find any info on this at all. Hope someone can help. Thanks.

[GregP]

A straight piece of wood and a router with a template bit is what many have used. Depending on the wood, though, all it takes is one nasty chip and whammo... scary stuff for people like me. More effective would be a robo-sander.

I've done it successfully twice, with the following technique:

Measure up and draw the lines of your taper. Use whatever tool you're comfortable with to "rough cut" to size. Keep in mind that the wrong tool is just as dangerous as a router bit "digging in" in terms of getting tear-out, though. I used a scroll saw with a fine blade. Then, with adhesive spray, I stuck a halved sheet of sandpaper to a flat surface, and manually ran the fingerboard back and forth across the surface (as opposed to running a sanding block over IT) until I was lined up with my drawn taper lines.

In your case, since you want to mount and then trim, you could use one of the above techniques to get hella-close to the right size, and then some careful sanding with a level sanding block should bring you flush with the fingerboard.

Keep in mind-- the above is purely amateur advice, partially to bump the thread and hopefully have more of an expert chime in.

Greg

[Deadwood jack]

A straight piece of wood and a router with a template bit is what many have used. Depending on the wood, though, all it takes is one nasty chip and whammo... scary stuff for people like me. More effective would be a robo-sander.

I've done it successfully twice, with the following technique:

Measure up and draw the lines of your taper. Use whatever tool you're comfortable with to "rough cut" to size. Keep in mind that the wrong tool is just as dangerous as a router bit "digging in" in terms of getting tear-out, though. I used a scroll saw with a fine blade. Then, with adhesive spray, I stuck a halved sheet of sandpaper to a flat surface, and manually ran the fingerboard back and forth across the surface (as opposed to running a sanding block over IT) until I was lined up with my drawn taper lines.

In your case, since you want to mount and then trim, you could use one of the above techniques to get hella-close to the right size, and then some careful sanding with a level sanding block should bring you flush with the fingerboard.

Keep in mind-- the above is purely amateur advice, partially to bump the thread and hopefully have more of an expert chime in.

Thanks for the info Greg, I don't have to mount and then trim, I like the sound of doing most of the work before hand, I'm no pro either but I can usually figure most things out but this one has me stumped. It's a rosewood board and I do have a router but I'm not goin near that thing for this job. I guess good old hand sanding sounds like the least scary option. I don't want to narrow the neck one mick hair though. Any pros out there got the answer. Thanks again Greg, Jack.

Greg

[Mattia]

I'd probably lay out the fingerboard, clamp it in place, scribe along the edges to mark where it needs cutting, plane the edges (which is how I usually taper my fingerboards; 3 minutes with a #5 and you're done), glue it down very slightly oversized (1/32" or so), and scrape to get the last little bit faired in.

[fryovanni]

I second Mattia.

Be sure to align your centerline accurately when you clamp. Plane or ruff saw (and square with plane or sanding block). Then mate the edges with a scraper(I do this after it is glued in place). Works very well.

P.S. Adding a pin to keep the alignment during glueing is a good idea. If not be sure it doesn't wander as you clamp it down(keep checking the centers- even a few minutes after you are clamped in place).

Peace,Rich

[Deadwood jack]

Sounds good guys, thanks for the help, my new board should be here soon so we'll see how we go. How hard can it be right?

[Phont24]

I wasn't too confident with my wood working skills so what I did after i glued the oversized blank to the neck was use the band saw to remove the majority of the overhang then use a surform rasp to clean it up with long strokes. At least this way you don't have to worry about extreme chipout like with the router, and it doesn't take too long it only took me about .5 an hour to get the edges flush. You just have to be very careful to keep the surform level or else the side of your fretboard won't be perpendicular to the face.

[whitey]

with my fretboard for my bass,i stuck it on,made sure it was all straight,as it was a pre slotted fretboard

i then used a small hacksaw to take off most of the overhang,with was half an inch either side,i sawed down to the 5th fret,leaving most of it on and sanded the rest flush and its perfect

but a question,is it better to glue ''then'' sand down

or mesure out and cut first?

[fryovanni]

but a question,is it better to glue ''then'' sand down

or mesure out and cut first?

It is best to cut it very close and sanded straight(leaving a tiny bit of extra material 1/32" or less). Glue the fretboard in place. Then use a scraper to mate the neck and fretboards surfaces.

Peace,Rich

[Deadwood jack]

Well my new radiused and slotted board arrived from Stew Mac. I laid the neck down onto the board and marked along the edges. Having said I would not go near the thing with the router I promptly realized I had no other option. I put the router in the vice upside down and very carefully and slowly removed most of the overhang. Looked very ordinary, all over the place but I couldn't see how else to do it, well I could have clamped a board to the thing but I basically couldn't be bothered. Just do it by hand.

So I glued the thing on and then just sanded it down with a block and 60 grade paper and it went fine.

The drama started when I had a look down the line of the neck and saw that the neck now had a fairly severe downward bow. How the f#*# did that happen. Did I clamp the board too tight? Probably but still, how did this happen. Oh well, I then had no option but to lay out and stick 60 grade paper on this glass table top in had in the shed and run the neck over the paper until the prick looked straight which I eventually did and now that the board is flat as well I now have to put a radius on it. Well I didn't have any radius blocks but I remembered, I think it was on this forum, someone showing how to make a radius block using a router in a home made jig. So I spent a couple of hours making the jig and then made myself a block with a 10'' radius. So now the mongrel's finished and all is well but boy, the downward bow put a real dampener on this job. Anyone out there know how the phantam bow happened. I'm guessing I clamped the board on too tight.

Edited April 15, 2006 by Deadwood jack

[fryovanni]

Well my new radiused and slotted board arrived from Stew Mac. I laid the neck down onto the board and marked along the edges. Having said I would not go near the thing with the router I promptly realized I had no other option. I put the router in the vice upside down and very carefully and slowly removed most of the overhang. Looked very ordinary, all over the place but I couldn't see how else to do it, well I could have clamped a board to the thing but I basically couldn't be bothered. Just do it by hand.

So I glued the thing on and then just sanded it down with a block and 60 grade paper and it went fine.

The drama started when I had a look down the line of the neck and saw that the neck now had a fairly severe downward bow. How the f#*# did that happen. Did I clamp the board too tight? Probably but still, how did this happen. Oh well, I then had no option but to lay out and stick 60 grade paper on this glass table top in had in the shed and run the neck over the paper until the prick looked straight which I eventually did and now that the board is flat as well I now have to put a radius on it. Well I didn't have any radius blocks but I remembered, I think it was on this forum, someone showing how to make a radius block using a router in a home made jig. So I spent a couple of hours making the jig and then made myself a block with a 10'' radius. So now the mongrel's finished and all is well but boy, the downward bow put a real dampener on this job. Anyone out there know how the phantam bow happened. I'm guessing I clamped the board on too tight.

I have to say-If I understand you correctly when you say you put a router in a vice upside down and started cutting- STUPID MOVE!!! Lord that is dangerous. Trimming a fretboard is not worth a finger, eye or worse. I am sure glad that did not go horribly wrong for you my friend.

Anyhow, So you glued down the fretboard to the neck. Then you sighted it and it had a bow in it. Did you check the neck to see if it was straight before you attached the fretboard? Was the truss rod seated well and not protruding against the fretboard? Did you use a long straignt block between the fretboard and clamps? I guess I am trying to figure out if the fretboard was seated flat along its length. A fretboard with no frets in it is very flexable. I just hope the slots have not been compressed, because it is going to push back when the frets are pressed in place, and that would be a problem since you re-surfaced the fretboard. A slotted and radiused board from Stewmac had about a 99% chance of being machined spot on.

Peace,Rich

[Deadwood jack]

Hey Rich, thanks for the concern. I've been putting routers in vices upside down for 20 years and have not come close to an accident. I routed the overhang very slowly taking a smidge off at a time.

As for the neck being straight? Well it was before I removed the original fingerboard and the neck is less than a year old. I didn't sight the neck after I had removed the f/b but I wish I had. I can't see why it would have bowed from removing the board. I had loosened the trus rod. It has some kind of yellow bog cementing it in and sure hadn't moved. As for the fret slots, there wasn't much of them left by the time I had refaced the board. Just reading your post again I get the impression you are thinking the bow is upward but it is downward. Anyway as I said, the new frets are in, the neck has not done anything since and is not going on the guitar for some time as other stuff needs to be done. So I don't see the neck moving in the future. Cheers, Jack.

[fryovanni]

Hey Rich, thanks for the concern. I've been putting routers in vices upside down for 20 years and have not come close to an accident. I routed the overhang very slowly taking a smidge off at a time.

As for the neck being straight? Well it was before I removed the original fingerboard and the neck is less than a year old. I didn't sight the neck after I had removed the f/b but I wish I had. I can't see why it would have bowed from removing the board. I had loosened the trus rod. It has some kind of yellow bog cementing it in and sure hadn't moved. As for the fret slots, there wasn't much of them left by the time I had refaced the board. Just reading your post again I get the impression you are thinking the bow is upward but it is downward. Anyway as I said, the new frets are in, the neck has not done anything since and is not going on the guitar for some time as other stuff needs to be done. So I don't see the neck moving in the future. Cheers, Jack.

Jack,

I didn't want to sound like a nag about the router, but I hate to think about what could happen. If you have been working with them I am sure you know what I am saying. I hope other guys reading this don't get the idea it is a good practice.

You are right. I was picturing upward bowing. The neck must have relaxed after you loosend the truss rod. I guess checking the neck before attaching the new board would have confirmed or denied that. Up side, It sounds like you have it back together, and fretted. Everything is looking good. Congrats!!! Sounds like you battled your way through a tricky fix and came out a winner.

Take care,Rich

[Deadwood jack]

Thanks Rich, yeah it was a real challenge for my first re board. The reason for the new board is that I bought a 24 3/4'' conversion strat neck and I didn't like the feel of it at all, so I thought I had nothing to lose as I'm a lefty and I had scallopped the neck as well and so getting a decent price for it was a long shot. So I got out the steam iron and the putty knife and the old board came off pretty easy.

I also had to lengthen the neck by about 3/4'' which turned out really good as well. What I didn't factor into the equasion was the side dots. They will not be in the same position now with the 25 1/2'' scale. So I have had to fill the old half holes left from the old side markers. I'm still working on a way to cover them. All in all this was a learning experience and the neck now has the new frets in and has been scallopped. I'm just waiting for some Paua 3mm dots for the side and it's ready for decal and clear coating. Because the neck had to be lengthened, the front two mounting holes are now exposed. I dowelled them and then recessed 1/4'' paua dots into the holes. looks interesting now. The 3mm side dots are bigger than norm as well, I plan to inset them a little lower than the norm as well but the old side dot patch ups are plagueing me. I'm thinking of air brushing a thin line down the side of the neck, probably only need to go about 1mm lower than the board line, hence the new dots being put in a smidge lower. Thats the only part of the whole job that I'm not happy about but at least the thing will play good now.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice on this thread, in the end, my instincts guided me through this challenging and very rewarding experience. Thanks again. Jack.

[Jalien21]

I just drew out where the sides need to be trimmed down to, and used a big sanding belt thing on it until it was the right shape. took like ten minutes. worked well

[Mickguard]

I'm getting ready to put on a fingerboard --this one is preslotted but NOT radiused. And it doesn't have a centerline drawn in. The sides appear to be straight (i.e., no taper). Although the edges have been rounded off.

I'm thinking I should measure the board as it is and determine the center line, then trim both sides to match the neck (I'm planning to use the carpenter's pull saw I picked up for that).

But it occurs to me I can also line up one edge of the board along one edge of the neck--that way I'd only have to saw the other edge of the board. Then I can plane/scrape both edges flush to the neck.

Which do you think is the best idea?

[Mattia]

Mark the centerline (measure, and check by drawing an 'X' in several frets, two lines diagonally across. The intersection is the centerpoint of that fret, and the line perpendicular to the frets, whether it's tapered - assuming its tapered evenly - or cut straight), trim the fingerboard down to almost perfect (I like using a plane), glue with brads/nails drilled through some of the frets (say third and 19th) to keep it all lined up (you can remove them later), and trim back using a scraper. Much more control than a pullsaw, which I've done once, but don't plan to do again.

That's what I'd do, anyway.

[Mickguard]

That's what I'd do, anyway.

Good enough for me!

I have a nice ruler here--one of those half round things that give angles and has a straightedge with a 0 at the center, so between that and the diagonal line idea, I should have no problem establishing the center line.

I've been wondering about the brad point thing -- do people drill through the fret slots? Through the dot markers?

I'm using two carbon fiber tubes in addition to the truss rod-- so there's not a lot of wood left for drilling into.

Although I also plan to place the dot markers along the sides (like Gretsch used to do), so that might help.

On the first fingerboard it's less of a problem, since I'll be adding a slot for a Fender-style nut (above the zero fret), I can drill through that.

[Mickguard]

I glued the first fingerboard on last night...looks like it came out okay!

In the end, I decided it was easier for me to glue the board on first, then trim it. This board is rosewood, by the way.

For the trimming part, first thing I did was lay down four layers of masking tape on each side of the neck. Then I used my scroll saw to take off the excess in a couple of long strips (I have an idea for how to use the scrap that's why).

Right now I'm using a surform to trim the board pretty close to the masking tape. I'm going to use sand paper to get it closer, then start taking away the layers of masking tape. I'll finish with the scraper, although I'll probably leave a layer of masking tape on for the time being.

Maybe it's excessive, but since it's the first time, I want to be as careful as possible.

The only thing is...the next board is ebony. I get the feeling that it's going to be a lot more brittle than the rosewood board? I don't think that will be a problem with the scroll saw, which seems to cut quite neatly. But maybe the surform will be too rough?

I'm in the process of rigging up a drum sander (basically a large hole cutter with sandpaper glued to it that I'll put in my drill and drill stand). That might be the best way.

[matttheguy]

What if I want the board to be less than the neck, for a bound fretboard? How do I trim it then?

If this wern't a board that had been shaped or the fret slots cut, I'm sure I could just use a router to cut the binding channel, but what should I do in this case?

[Mattia]

What if I want the board to be less than the neck, for a bound fretboard? How do I trim it then?

If this wern't a board that had been shaped or the fret slots cut, I'm sure I could just use a router to cut the binding channel, but what should I do in this case?

A sharp plane.

I always, always trim my boards after slotting and radiussing.