The Fatalities Posted April 6, 2006 Report Posted April 6, 2006 What sander can i use to cut more out of the bridge cavity? my floyd rose doesnt fit and the spring holder hits the side and i need something to give it more space. it would be good if it doubled as a sander for the guitar. Quote
The Fatalities Posted April 12, 2006 Author Report Posted April 12, 2006 a router wouldnt work because it would cut too deep and may wreck the cavity. I need a tool that had adjustible depth cutting. Quote
marksound Posted April 12, 2006 Report Posted April 12, 2006 a router wouldnt work because it would cut too deep and may wreck the cavity. I need a tool that had adjustible depth cutting. Like the man said, a router. Quote
j. pierce Posted April 21, 2006 Report Posted April 21, 2006 a router wouldnt work because it would cut too deep and may wreck the cavity. I need a tool that had adjustible depth cutting. Many (most? all? Mine does.) routers have adjustable depth. You get an appropriatly sized bit and your set. Templates and bearing guided bits are also your friends. (I don't think I'd *ever* free hand something on an otherwise working guitar with a router) Although I've done things similar to what you're speaking of with chisels. But I've had a lot of practice with chisels. Quote
Mattia Posted April 21, 2006 Report Posted April 21, 2006 All routers have depth adjustment. A router without depth adjustment would be a profoundly useless tool. Quote
1576 Posted April 21, 2006 Report Posted April 21, 2006 All routers have depth adjustment. A router without depth adjustment would be a profoundly useless tool. Here here Quote
soapbarstrat Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 I haven't come across a non adjustable router, but maybe we should assume they are out there. It's like with C-clamps. You always want to make sure you get the *adjustable* kind (make sure it says so on the clamp) http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B00004S9...SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg Quote
Phil Mailloux Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 It's like with C-clamps. You always want to make sure you get the *adjustable* kind (make sure it says so on the clamp) I'll be sure to ask for them next time I'm in an hardware store Quote
ryanb Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 It's like with C-clamps. You always want to make sure you get the *adjustable* kind (make sure it says so on the clamp) I'll be sure to ask for them next time I'm in an hardware store They are usually located between the left-handed screwdrivers and the metric adjustable-wrenches in the hardware store. Quote
1576 Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 And dont forget the tartan paint and the bubbles for spirit levels Quote
Jalien21 Posted April 23, 2006 Report Posted April 23, 2006 man. routers. people here LOVE them. personally, i can't get the hang of it at all. i always feel like i'm going to kill myself with it and when i do get some limited success, it always causes things to chip and whatnot. i've done all my pickup/back cavities with a drill press and fostner bit followed up with a chisel. it just... i don't know. there is no way i'd be able to do something like you need to with a router. but maybe mine is just really bad or i'm not making my jigs right or something. *shrug* Quote
Mattia Posted April 23, 2006 Report Posted April 23, 2006 man. routers. people here LOVE them. personally, i can't get the hang of it at all. i always feel like i'm going to kill myself with it and when i do get some limited success, it always causes things to chip and whatnot. i've done all my pickup/back cavities with a drill press and fostner bit followed up with a chisel. it just... i don't know. there is no way i'd be able to do something like you need to with a router. but maybe mine is just really bad or i'm not making my jigs right or something. *shrug* Well, see, routers are great tools. If you use them right. And if you've got a good quality machine, no run-out, enough power, good handling (say a Bosck 1617, Porter Cable 690, Dewalt, Festool). Also, the cheapie router bits from the hardware store? Toss 'em. Freud, Whiteside, Amana, CMT, good quality bits don't come cheap, but they're worth every penny. And of course, there's the basic rules of routing: know when to climb cut (to prevent chip-out), how to control it while doing so, and know how big a bit you can and should take (answer: as small as possible, and in terms of depth, half the diameter of your bit is a safe margin). Heck, for semi-hollows, I freehand route to clean up inside routes. Works a charm. Quote
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