My Future Guitarprojekt. What Do You Think?

[TheCross]

Hey everyone. I'm new to this board and I'm mainly here because I'm planning on visiting a guitar building camp on Formentera (www.formentera-guitars.com) where I will build my dream guitar. This will be in about htree years when I'll finish university. So now I'll start making design drawings and thoughts about the wood choice and electronic stuff...

I plan on making a enlarged LesPaul style guitar(I'm tall and most guitars look rather small when I play em) with one f-hole.

The woods should be mahogany/korina body with a walnut cap, the neck will be a maple neck with a ebony fretboard, a 25" PRS like neck, a PRS like Trem, locking Tuners, a Humbucker at the neck, a middle single coil and a P90 at the bridge plus a L.R. Braggs Piezo system.

The custom shaped f-hole should be on the non-pot side and maybe a tone chamber under the walnut cap on the other side for weight reasons. Wiring-wise I'm not yet to sure... I'd like to have a Gretsch style tone toggle, master Vol, Master tone, a blender pot for the Piezo system, not sure if I'll use a 3way toggle switch and add the middle SC via a Push/pull pot or if I'll go with a 5way...

What I want to achieve? A guitar that is capable of doing some nice Gretsch hollow-body sounds and has enough substance to deliver a solidbody tone. From open glassy fenderish crunched to grunting bluesy and maybe a tad more...

What do you think? Tips? Advices?

[azz230]

Enlarged LesPaul!!??

Dam it man.... how Enlarged???

those things are heavy, but i gess u wold be holowing it out.

but still how Enlarged??

[fryovanni]

So you are going to build this one in three years. Is your plan to build a couple before then? Or will you just plan for three years then build a guitar?

Peace,Rich

[TheCross]

well... I just want to make it bigger! not as big as an ES335 or something. just some inches bigger. the body shape won't be too LP-ish anyway and yes I want to hollow it out... at least on one side(remember the f-hole thing)...

and yes it might sound weird but it's true... I will build just ONE guitar in THREE years... but I'm so excited about it that I want to have all plans done and finished when I go to the isle and visit the guitar camp... Nik Huber is one of the instructors and he started his career there... check out his stuff...

so.... any comments on my idea/wood choice?

[j. pierce]

so.... any comments on my idea/wood choice?

I think Mahogany with a walnut cap looks killer, and the one I built sounds really great. Maple necks always sound great to me, and look killer. Although with two other woods in the body, I'd think about staining it to match. Ebony boards (especially ones of a uniform colour) are great in a case like this where you've already got a lot of disparate woods.

I've always thought LP's seemed small on some people. But if you make one bigger - yeah, either go hollow or thinner.

I like the idea of the three different types of pickups; particularly because those are my favorite pickups for each of those positions, and the idea of having all those sounds in one guitar makes me happy! But I wonder about the asthetics of that odd layout, three different sized and looking p'ups. Perhaps you'd be well served by one of those Gibson P-94's; a P90 in a humbucker route - could clean up the look a little bit. (I think the P-94s, while more expensive, nail the classic P90 tone, while the Seymour Duncan Phat Cats and the GFS pickups of a similar style, while good sounding pickups, don't deliver on the P-90 promise.)

[TheCross]

well... I already thought about the pup layout stuff and yeah the p94 is an option though I won't buy it.... when I go to the isle I will wind em myself! HA! maybe I'll even go for a triple bucker look if I make the SC in the middle in a bucker route. not sure bout that I guess it will work out fine the other way around just as good...

handwound baby! the instructor I've talked to that it ain't voodoo doing it just experience and that they will instruct me properly so I will do a real good job...

what kind of guitar did you build out of mahogani and walnut? tell me about everything and the tone!

well... I already thought about the pup layout stuff and yeah the p94 is an option though I won't buy it.... when I go to the isle I will wind em myself! HA! maybe I'll even go for a triple bucker look if I make the SC in the middle in a bucker route. not sure bout that I guess it will work out fine the other way around just as good...

handwound baby! the instructor I've talked to that it ain't voodoo doing it just experience and that they will instruct me properly so I will do a real good job...

what kind of guitar did you build out of mahogani and walnut? tell me about everything and the tone!

btw what can you guys tell me about several pieced necks? like a maple and mahogani striped neck... is it just cosmetic or will it affect the tone as well... ?!

[SwedishLuthier]

This will be in about htree years when I'll finish university

So you have plenty of time to try something simpler. There is no real problem with what you are planning, but you shouldn’t do this as your first one. The most common guitar to do as a first is probably a Tele, and there are REASONS for that. It is simple and you don’t need to fancy/expensive tools to do it (if you use another truss rod system) and it is very rewarding to get a decent guitar done as a first. Remember that if you really would like this dream guitar of yours to be good, you have to do it as your third guitar or something like that.

I plan on making a enlarged LesPaul style guitar

25" PRS like neck,

just some inches bigger.

OK, some thoughts about this. A few inches wider are quite much on a LP-style guitar. I don’t have any dimensions, but I guess that you’re only shy of the dimensions on a 335 with that. And a really big body might look oversized if you are using a 25” neck. You can fix this by moving the bridge/pickups/neck attachment point to get a good look. Experiment full size on paper to get the picture. Draw the neck together with the pickups and bridge on one piece and the body outline on another. Then you can easily slide the papers back and forth and se how it will look.

The woods should be mahogany/korina body with a walnut cap, the neck will be a maple neck with a ebony fretboard,

Humbucker at the neck, a middle single coil and a P90 at the bridge plus a L.R. Braggs Piezo system.

A guitar that is capable of doing some nice Gretsch hollow-body sounds and has enough substance to deliver a solidbody tone. From open glassy fenderish crunched to grunting bluesy and maybe a tad more

Those woods and body construction (mahogany/korina and solid body with chambers) together with a 25” neck will not give you a “glassy fenderish” sound. You need to use a 25.5” neck and maybe Swamp ash or something like that. And a P90 in the bridge will not help either. Don’t get me wrong, I love P90s, but that’s not what you need. Try an overwound Gretch style Pickup like the TV Jones ore something like that. It might work together with your choices of woods.

not sure if I'll use a 3way toggle switch and add the middle SC via a Push/pull pot or if I'll go with a 5way...

Keep it simple. If you’re going to play it in concert you don’t want to fiddle around with too many switches and buttons and stuff.

btw what can you guys tell me about several pieced necks? like a maple and mahogani striped neck... is it just cosmetic or will it affect the tone as well... ?!

Most of all it add strength to the neck. A laminated neck will also have less dead spots compared to a solid neck Adding mahogany between the maple will change the tone somewhat, and actually move it further away from your fenderish sound.

[Mickguard]

so.... any comments on my idea/wood choice?

My first thought? You're wasting our time. Come back in three years when you're actually ready to start.

Second thought? You're wasting YOUR time. And your money.

My third thought: For the EUR 2350 you'll spend (and that doesn't even include the flight to Ibiza and the food and drinks you'll need to pay for while you're there) and the three years you'll waste dreaming about this, you could build 10 guitars.

This site is all about building guitars. You'll find everything you need to know here to get started. And while you're actually working, you'll find tons of help along the way.

So if you're serious about building your dream guitar, then you've come to the right place.

You won't have to wait three years to play your dream guitar. And you can always take a vacation to Ibiza with the money you save.

[marksound]

Enlarged Les Paul kinda? Solid and hollowbody tones kinda? Say no more.

Howard Roberts Fusion, anyone?

[Drak]

The problem here (if you could call it a problem) is very common among new builders, and that is that they typically want to include every option under the sun on their first guitar, use all the best woods (on a new design no less), and they think that their first build will be a tremendous instrument.

Rare is the case that this actually becomes truth.

Not really a problem, BUT the expectations start to get out of hand sometimes, and that is why it's best to start out with a simple first project, because rarely (if ever) does a first project come out to be a pro-grade player. So all those expectations of a killer guitar with every switching option known to man wind up in frustration because there was no EXPERIENCE to back up those well-laid plans.

Even under the instruction of a seasoned pro, rarely does a first attempt come out as one you will want to keep for years. It's possible, but almost every single builder will tell you that their first guitar really was an experiment in progress, and their second was far far better because they finally had some EXPERIENCE under their belt.

So I would recommend that you keep your appointment, but start building now, so that when you attend your pro shop, you will have enough experience under your belt already to really whip out a killer guitar.

Let's say you made an appointment with a hunting preserve to hunt your first grizz, and you had never hunted in your life before.

You researched all the best rifles, the recommended ammunition, researched the roaming habits of the grizz, researched the terrain beforehand, etc.

Then the day comes when you are armed with your new rifle, ammo, terrain knowledge, etc., (but not a lick of experience) and you come face to face with a wild grizzley bear, and he does something completely unexpected on you, gets the better of you, takes you by surprise and attacks you, and your new rifle and ammo are hurled 10 yards away from you.

A SEASONED hunter would have been thru all these situations before, he would have the voice of experience to lean on to get him out of that situation, or to not let that situation happen at all, because he probably started out hunting rabbits and squirrels and such years beforehand and worked his way up the food chain to wilder game as the years went on.

You diggin' me?

[fryovanni]

Ok, I have to agree totally with Drak here.(Scary )

The problem here (if you could call it a problem) is very common among new builders, and that is that they typically want to include every option under the sun on their first guitar, use all the best woods (on a new design no less), and they think that their first build will be a tremendous instrument.

Rare is the case that this actually becomes truth.

Not really a problem, BUT the expectations start to get out of hand sometimes, and that is why it's best to start out with a simple first project, because rarely (if ever) does a first project come out to be a pro-grade player. So all those expectations of a killer guitar with every switching option known to man wind up in frustration because there was no EXPERIENCE to back up those well-laid plans.

Even under the instruction of a seasoned pro, rarely does a first attempt come out as one you will want to keep for years. It's possible, but almost every single builder will tell you that their first guitar really was an experiment in progress, and their second was far far better because they finally had some EXPERIENCE under their belt.

So I would recommend that you keep your appointment, but start building now, so that when you attend your pro shop, you will have enough experience under your belt already to really whip out a killer guitar.

This is so very true.

Here is the thing. You have selected wood, pickups, chambers and so forth based on what you have read(not a bad idea exactly). However, you need to build a bit before you can really understand how much these things actually effect the guitar. When you read about wood it will tell you species X has certain tonal properties. This is a general statement about that type of wood. Each piece of wood can have a very different effect. Things like how the wood is cut, what kind of climate the tree grew in, age of the tree, how the wood was dried and how dry it currently is, etc.... All come into play. All that said these factors are only so significant(experience tells you how they effect the guitar). The design, mass, neck construction, pickups, pickup placement, scale length and on and on... All play on each other to generate the guitars sound(then we could talk about amp choice), and one factor will effect the others. When you want a bright crisp sound, and lets say choose a Maple neck. Then want warmth so you choose Mahogany body. Well the Mahogany is going to attenuate some of those highs and cut the brightness(countering the effect of your first choice, all be it to a certain degree). What you can wind up with is a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well. All of the design and material choices aside. You need to practice with tools to become good at using them and be able to build a good instrument. If having an experienced person looking over your shoulder could steady your hand or keep a blade at the correct angle. Then we would all become master craftsmen in short order.

That sounds pretty lame, but I only say it because I believe it to be true and hope to help. You show that you know how important planning is(very wise). You seem to be willing to do a lot of research. Just get some hands on going so you understand what you are doing. Get a little construction time under your belt so you can work the tools. Maybe building a neck would be good. Use basic tools(you will get a better feel for the process and not have to invest a lot). Build a body and practice finishing. Experience is important, and you don't want to get "booksmart-stupid" over then next three years then build a so-so guitar.

Peace,Rich

P.S. Your wood choices are fine(all have been used commonly with success). Laminates are cool and I prefer it for all of my builds.

[TheCross]

I got your point(s). sure.

I know that it's a whole lot of money I almost could use to get myself a good amount of machines n tools n stuff...

but I really think that the workshop will be 10 times better than getting my information via internet, books etc.

To build a rather simply guitar first makes absolutely sense to me... but the point is: I don't have the time nor the money for it. My plan is to live on the cheap side for the next three years and then see what's left of my savings and if it's enough to visit the workshop, that's what I want to do. I ain't poor. I jsut want to build a really decent guitar and see if I'm really into it and learn a lot more about guitar(s/ construction) and after that might get some good tools to continue building some stuff at home...

All the former participators are perfectly happy with their guitars and most didn't went hunting before either... and check out the pics on www.formentera-guitars.com they all look pretty.

I'm pretty confident that things can work out fine. No doubt - I want a lot from that guitar... apparently... but I guess it ain't the weirdest ideas I have I just want the guitar to become worth the money I'll spend. And I'm not just experimental concerning my first selfbuilt guitar... I love all that wiring stuff, pup swaps etc... I do that all the time...

and not even the most experienced guitar builder can tell you exactly how things will sound in a guitar...

hm.. maybe I'll build a neck anyway... can I use cheaper woods for that as well or aren'T they comparable with real tone woods?

[SwedishLuthier]

Try oak (at least it is cheap in Sweden). I have built two necks out of oak and both play and sound good.

And “real tone wood” doesn’t mean a thing. All kinds of woods that isn’t considered “tone wood” can, and have been used in guitars. You just have to find a piece of stable, seasoned (dry) piece of wood and call it tone wood. Remember that a lot of old violins have been made out of cherry, pear or almost any other wood.

[Mickguard]

but I really think that the workshop will be 10 times better than getting my information via internet, books etc.

No, you're misunderstanding us.

What we're saying is that you're better off spending this time getting some practical, real-world, hands-on experience , instead of just dreaming and twiddling your thumbs hoping you can save up the cash.

[Drak]

What you can wind up with is a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well.

That is SOOOO true. Well said!

And Cross, -all- good luthiers are hard headed, mine is like plate-steel, so you do indeed have a shot at this.

[Mickguard]

You just have to find a piece of stable, seasoned (dry) piece of wood and call it tone wood

Hmm...I just found a couple of the uprights that were part of our staircase (they were taken off when the house was renovated)....they're at least 100 years old, nice and thick and still perfectly straight --that seasoned enough?

I'm sure I can find a way to fill in the nail holes....

[marksound]

I'm sure I can find a way to fill in the nail holes....

You could always put a pickguard on it.

[TheCross]

but I really think that the workshop will be 10 times better than getting my information via internet, books etc.

No, you're misunderstanding us.

What we're saying is that you're better off spending this time getting some practical, real-world, hands-on experience , instead of just dreaming and twiddling your thumbs hoping you can save up the cash.

What you can wind up with is a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well.

That is SOOOO true. Well said!

And Cross, -all- good luthiers are hard headed, mine is like plate-steel, so you do indeed have a shot at this.

yup. but what I need before I go to the 'real-world' is lecture and tools. and what you misunderstood is, that I simply set a living 'real-world' instructor behind my back is ten times better than having a book behind you...

that's all. for the workshop there's no knowledge needed. usefull yes. required no. that's what all the participants told me.

concerning the tone wood thing... I thought it was a bad way of saying it... there are even guitars made out of stone.... http://www.guitarmaniacs.de/html/users/har...-selfmade.shtml

and double no doubt to the heard-headed guy which I am...

where can I wind up with a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well when I use a classic mahogani body with a maple-ish cap, a maple neck for the feel and attack and an ebony board for the feel and the higher frequenzies?

[weezerboy]

i *think* [its always tough when drak is concerned] the point that these guys are trying to point out to you is this:

you will be paying a large sum of money, to basically watch a guy build your guitar for you as its yours first and you will essentially be lost.

they don't do it to be mean to the newbs, they do it because they're right.

[Drak]

How did Ormsby's classes ever turn out?

He should have a good viewpoint or three on this topic.

[fryovanni]

but I really think that the workshop will be 10 times better than getting my information via internet, books etc.

No, you're misunderstanding us.

What we're saying is that you're better off spending this time getting some practical, real-world, hands-on experience , instead of just dreaming and twiddling your thumbs hoping you can save up the cash.

What you can wind up with is a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well.

That is SOOOO true. Well said!

And Cross, -all- good luthiers are hard headed, mine is like plate-steel, so you do indeed have a shot at this.

yup. but what I need before I go to the 'real-world' is lecture and tools. and what you misunderstood is, that I simply set a living 'real-world' instructor behind my back is ten times better than having a book behind you...

that's all. for the workshop there's no knowledge needed. usefull yes. required no. that's what all the participants told me.

concerning the tone wood thing... I thought it was a bad way of saying it... there are even guitars made out of stone.... http://www.guitarmaniacs.de/html/users/har...-selfmade.shtml

and double no doubt to the heard-headed guy which I am...

where can I wind up with a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well when I use a classic mahogani body with a maple-ish cap, a maple neck for the feel and attack and an ebony board for the feel and the higher frequenzies?

I understand why instruction in person is better, and I think it is a great way to go. I just really think you will get more out of the experience and build a better instrument if you don't go in cold. Take it for what it is worth.

As for wood for building a bit. Use what you can when you have a chance. Take the oportunity to learn about what to look for from the wood you use. If you know what makes for a good piece of material you may find many inexpensive woods make great building material.

Like I said the woods you picked out are commonly used with success. My comment about parts that fight each other and do nothing really well. I am saying if you try to get a guitar to sound hot and cold you get warmish sound thats all. Tight crunchy leads and warm full hollow body sounds require different construction. You can meet in the middle (semi-hollow), and it will sound good in a different way. However it will not pull off either as well as guitar designed for its purpose.

When it all comes down to it do what makes you happy. It's your guitar and your project. Enjoy designing and building it.

Peace,Rich

[Mickguard]

Yeah, I'm not trying to be mean.

Actually, I'm trying to encourage TC to go ahead and give building a try NOW --just because it's a blast. Nothing is going to stop him from going to the workshop later.

See, the way I figure it, once you get the dream of building a guitar in your head, it's already too late --you have to go for it. Sooner or later.

[tirapop]

To drag out Drak's hunting metaphor... Cross is going on a safari, a guided hunt. Someone is going to stalk his prey, hand him the rifle, to take the shot, and guarantee that he leaves with a trophy. He's paying to have the experience of building his dream guitar. That's a pretty cool thing.

Cross, you're getting pushback because PG regulars build guitars as a hobby, as a lifestyle. They aren't building "a dream guitar". A nice guitar is a happy byproduct of the process. Each guitar project is an opportunity for self expression, an opportunity to aquire new skills, an opportunity to stretch existing skills. One project begets another.

You say that you're going to wait 3 years and save your money to take this class. PG'ers look at that as 3 years wasted and the missed opportunity to do cost neutral or low cost projects that would make you a better luthier. There are lots of students on this board who have similar constraints on time and money, and still manage to build guitars.

There's nothing wrong what you want to do. If you want to build guitars you can start now and still take that camp in 3 years.

[SwedishLuthier]

concerning the tone wood thing... I thought it was a bad way of saying it... there are even guitars made out of stone....

Yes, and Dan Armstrong made a granite guitar for the Fender research department in the 70’s. I don’t get your point.

And don’t get us wrong. We are NOT putting you down, just giving you some advices. We love guitar building and think that you should try it out. If you think that this course thing is right for you, go ahead.

But I think Mickguard expressed it very well when he noticed that you can get yourself a shop full of the necessary tools AND the wood you need to build a couple of guitars for the money you are planning on spending on that one guitar. And you also have 3 years to build those guitars.

I’m curious. Have you actually spoken to some of the earlier participants in real live, or have you read their comments online? I have a hard time to believe that those instruments showed online is made in 2 ½. Remember that the finish has to cure for a week if you are using water borne finish and some FIVE WEEKS if you are using nitro. I can’t get the timeline together. Are they using UV-curing finishes? I’m suspecting that those guitars are made over several courses and not only one. Pls be aware of this so that you don’t get fooled/disappointed.

where can I wind up with a mix of parts that fight each other and do nothing really well when I use a classic mahogani body with a maple-ish cap, a maple neck for the feel and attack and an ebony board for the feel and the higher frequenzies?

Wood and sound is something that we have debated a lot in this forum. We are good at giving advices about things like this, but you must remember that it is all PERSONAL OPINIONS. IMHO walnut isn’t at all very “maple-ish”. If you want the sound of maple, use maple. You say that you would like a “fenderish” sound. What guitar is made out of a mahogany body/maple top? A Les Paul (OK, with a mahogany neck) How do LPs sound? Not very “fenderish”, eh? I have built a guitar with mahogany body, maple top, laminated maple neck, ebony fretboard and a soapbar at the bridge. Forget about “fenderish” tone in that guitar. And it was a bolt-on! Use a set neck and you will move that sound even more into the LP range.

I wouldn’t say that the woods are fighting each other, tone-vice. Maybe you just end up with something that doesn’t sound like you wanted. That is why so many of us stress this point: Get some tools, build a couple of guitars, get experience of how wood work together to form sound and THEN build your dream guitar.

[TheCross]

concerning the tone wood thing... I thought it was a bad way of saying it... there are even guitars made out of stone....

Yes, and Dan Armstrong made a granite guitar for the Fender research department in the 70’s. I don’t get your point.

But I think Mickguard expressed it very well when he noticed that you can get yourself a shop full of the necessary tools AND the wood you need to build a couple of guitars for the money you are planning on spending on that one guitar. And you also have 3 years to build those guitars.

I’m curious. Have you actually spoken to some of the earlier participants in real live, or have you read their comments online? I have a hard time to believe that those instruments showed online is made in 2 ½. Remember that the finish has to cure for a week if you are using water borne finish and some FIVE WEEKS if you are using nitro. I can’t get the timeline together. Are they using UV-curing finishes? I’m suspecting that those guitars are made over several courses and not only one. Pls be aware of this so that you don’t get fooled/disappointed.

Wood and sound is something that we have debated a lot in this forum. We are good at giving advices about things like this, but you must remember that it is all PERSONAL OPINIONS. IMHO walnut isn’t at all very “maple-ish”. If you want the sound of maple, use maple. You say that you would like a “fenderish” sound. What guitar is made out of a mahogany body/maple top? A Les Paul (OK, with a mahogany neck) How do LPs sound? Not very “fenderish”, eh? I have built a guitar with mahogany body, maple top, laminated maple neck, ebony fretboard and a soapbar at the bridge. Forget about “fenderish” tone in that guitar. And it was a bolt-on! Use a set neck and you will move that sound even more into the LP range.

I wouldn’t say that the woods are fighting each other, tone-vice. Maybe you just end up with something that doesn’t sound like you wanted. That is why so many of us stress this point: Get some tools, build a couple of guitars, get experience of how wood work together to form sound and THEN build your dream guitar.

a) what I wanted to say about the guitar made out of stone was that one can make a guitar out of almost everything if he's doin a good job. that's my point.

B)I know how much time is left and what I could afford from that money, hell I could even get a freakin decent guitar from that money if I'll go to a music store... but I simply can't get started real big at the moment cos I have a rent to pay and a living to do plus I don't have enough space to put any machines in my apartment. When I want to do something I want to do it right. and sitting at home with a knife cutting chips from a log ain't how it's supposed to be and it will take way too much time.

c)I didn't speak to one of the participants in person. I've read their e-mails and posts. And yes those guitars were made in 2 1/2 weeks. that's for sure. that's what the instructor told me. AND they use an oil or wax finishes exclusively which doesn't take too long.

d) I know you guys can jsut give me advices and it's all a matter of taste AND vocabluary... one mans brittle is another mans glassy... I'm aware of that. the vocabluary is what lead to a lot of misunderstandings in this thread, cos I might have used the wrong words to describe my goals. I know that THE (recognize THE) Fender sound is coming from a bolt-on neck, the 25.5" neck and so on. But if I wanted exactly that I would build a Strat style guitar. But I want a LP. modified but a LP. I'm a bluesy guy and for that I love mahogani body guitars(I know I know a lot of the bluesers were fender users). What I've been missing with LPs was that they almost always come with finished mahogani necks -> I love natural maple necks, they have rosewod fretboars -> I love the feel and attack of ebony, they easily sound mushy -> I like guitars with a rather defined tone, fuzz boxes etc will get the tone mushy enough... I like Gretsch and other hollow-body guitars or some reasons but I never wanted to buy one just for that, so I decided to make my guitar semi-hollow. I like the PRS neck dimensions and the 25"(playability is the main factor here) and often dislike the short Gibson necks though I love the guitars. And I didn't want to go with a maple top cos Is afraid to have to much bright wood in that guitar so it won't have a tone comparable to a LP so I wanted to go with walnut.

And I'm planning to do some special stuff I'm interested in, like a deep-set neck tenon, an easy access neck(carving out some wood om the back so one can reach the upper frets better) and I don't think I an do that on my own.

I ain't expecting that guitar to be the master guitar. I just wanted to shape a LP to my likings. that's all

I will see at the end of my university years how much is left and if I can go to the isle or not. I WILL go there, no doubt... the time is the vague factor here. btw there are as well a LOT of theory lessons included about wood, construction and stuff... did I mention that nik hber started is luthier career there? www.nikhuber-guitars.com

I see your good will... in everyone. So could you give me a quick advice, what would be a good start? which tools would I need for doing a neck? how much would that cost?(*checkingthebudget*)any additional lecture except the one I will find here?