Fanatic1 Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 (edited) Well i couldnt resist and i bought this Delta 9" Bandsaw. Delta 9" Mi impressions.- Its very quiet, very light and beautiful . I test a piece of mahogany and works very good cutting circles and all. I suffered my first accident cutting an mdf templates, i feel in safe and in control and i make a little circle an !zas!!! for an instant i just quit my hand and look what happens, the band saw blade was out off the rail, i adjust the bandsaw again but right now its like mmm different, its not quiet anymore, maybe it needs more adjust or something. In resume its a good machine for small pieces, i try to cut a heavy piece of mahogany and start to smoke a little. Somebody who knows the same bandsaw? ups sorry for the mistake, well the mistakes Edited May 13, 2006 by Fanatic1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 It sounds like your bandsaw isn't properly adjusted. The blade shouldn't come loose like that. Spend the time to adjust it well and it should cut better. If i has gotten noiser since you adjusted check the blade is not coming into contact with the top or bottom guide bearings and that the blade is tensioned correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 Read your manual that came with it. I have one just like it, and if it's properly setup it will do a good job for you. You need to go step by step and do everything they say in the setup, to insure everything will work right. On a side note though, I had a bandsaw blade have the same issue, it wouldn't align properly and keep coming off, I had assumed it was my bandsaw and it turned out to be an imperfection in the way the blade was joined together. I replaced the blade with a new one, and problem solved. So, that might also be something to look into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 On a similar topic, someone here recommended a bandsaw book in a thread a while back - I can't seem to find the thread, but was interested in checking the book out. I'm looking to get a bandsaw at some point and while I can't swing it now, I can get a book and learn about it. I'd like to know what I'm doing when I finally get one, and while tool manuals help, I find a good book teaches me a lot more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 I believe it's called 'The Bandsaw Book', published by Taunton Press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 Also, the "Bandsaw Handbook" by Mark Duginske. Sounds like you might have bent the blade a little when you knocked it out of the guides. Or maybe knocked the guides out of alignment. If the sound is like a tic-tic-tic-tic, it is a blade problem. If it is a constant grinding or squealing noise, it is likely the guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic1 Posted May 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 And what about the bearing? when i adjust the blade again all the time its touching the blade and spinning, and in a professional bandsaw its only when you press the blade, it its for the small size of the bandsaw or its about the adjust? Thanks guys, i looked the blade and its a little warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 And what about the bearing? when i adjust the blade again all the time its touching the blade and spinning, and in a professional bandsaw its only when you press the blade, it its for the small size of the bandsaw or its about the adjust? Thanks guys, i looked the blade and its a little warp. This is my method when I mount the blade and set the guides. 1.loosen the guides so that the blade is free to travel. 2. Place the blade on the wheels(aligned close to center of the tires). 3.adjust the tension. 4.Spin the wheels by hand adjusting the travel. Until it travels close to the middle of the tires. Again all guides are still loose and not touching the blade. 5. Level the table so that it is square with the blade.(I use a machinists square). 6. check the blade to confirm it runs staight up and down perpendicular to the table(again no guides yet). 7. spin the blade by hand a bit (10 or so revs.), and double check it is still running in the middle of the tire, the blade is square side to side with the table and straight up and down. 8. Bring the rear bearing guide close to the blade. As close as possible without touching. Spin the wheels a bit and confirm it is not pressing on the bearing while it spins( a lite touch is ok, just make sure the bearing is not forcing the blade in place. If it is balance on the wheel this should be easy to set). Check to be sure the blade is still runiing straight up and down to the table. At this point you should also confirm that the front of the side guides will alight with the rea teeth of the blade. Sometimes it is acceptable to have them encompass smaller blades (like 3/16" and smaller blades) when using plastic blocks or Cool blocks (it will chew the surface of the block up though, but may be needed because those guides are not accurate enough to prevent slipping). 9. Set the inner blade guides top and bottom. You want to bring them as close as you can without pushing on the blade. Now if you are using bearing guides you can touch the blade lightly (I run Carters and I run 0 clearence no problem), Cool blocks can be run very very close, stock plastic should have a bit more clearance. Then spin the blade and confirm it is stil running straight from side to side. Remember the welded seam will bump a bit (better blades have smoother welds). You don't want the weld to touch stock plastic guides. It can lightly bump Cool blocks. If you are running good bearings it can slightly maintain contact. 10. Set the outer guides. This is the tricky one. You want to allow enough clearance to avoid pinching(especially at the weld). A bearing can be set very close as long as it smoothly travels past the weld. Cool blocks and stock plastic guides will compress when snugged up and usually have worn surfaces (you can't get them too close or they will pinch the blade). Set them looser, to avoid heat and pinching. Again spin the wheel and check the side to side alignment. After all that is done spin it one more time to make one last check. Close it up. Start it and let it run for a minute, and then check one last time. Hope that helps. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic1 Posted May 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Thanks a lot Rich, i was blind now i can see . I found info about shaping bandsaw blades, care maintenance etc. Its amazing. BandsawDoctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfcoast Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 I had one of these bandsaws and it completely fried on me. Was cutting some 1.5 inch thick mahogany on it. The machine started winding down real fast, heard a pop and saw smoke come out of the power switch area. I quickly unplugged the machine and said many words that cannot be repeated here. It never seemed to work quite right after I resawed a ~3.5 inch mahogany board about 3 feet long on it. The machine's blade shield barely went up high enough to clear the piece of wood. I probably overworked it. I plan on getting a larger machine when I get back to the states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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