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Yellow Glue On Body Blank


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Do you mean like Titebond, Elmer's woodworking glue, or similar, aliphatic resin glues?

If so, that is what folks mostly use for almost all wood to wood joints.

the Titebond original formula ( not II or III ) comes especially recomended.

I use the Elmer's, just cause I always have. It works very well, too.

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Titebond Original (NOT II or III) is my bog-standard glue for 99% of all my wood-to-wood joinery. I'll be trying hide glue on my next few acoustic builds; can be had from StewMac, LMI, possibly your local fine arts/paints store (mine has it), ebay...any number of sources. You want to use the stuff made afresh, used hot, all that stuff, not the bottled one. Frank Ford's website (FRETS.com) has some great info on glues and their uses, albeit more geared towards repair than building, it's still highly relevant.

Edited by Mattia
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Personally I would recomend not using hide glue on a solid body guitar. It's sticky, it's hot, it's hard to get the peices clamped before the stuff gells up, and it basicly falls apart with too much heat.

It's great for violins, deffinitly not so great for solidbody guitars.

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Personally I would recomend not using hide glue on a solid body guitar. It's sticky, it's hot, it's hard to get the peices clamped before the stuff gells up, and it basicly falls apart with too much heat.

It's great for violins, deffinitly not so great for solidbody guitars.

Hide glue is *the* best heat resistant wood glue there is. It's because of this that people use it inspite of it's somewhat fiddly aspects. There is a ton of info on the MIMF about working with hide glue, such as warming the pieces to be jointed, and applying from a squeeze bottle with large bolts in it to retain heat.

There's no real need to use it on electrics, but certainly no reason not to if you know how.

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Personally I would recomend not using hide glue on a solid body guitar. It's sticky, it's hot, it's hard to get the peices clamped before the stuff gells up, and it basicly falls apart with too much heat.

It's great for violins, deffinitly not so great for solidbody guitars.

Hide glue is *the* best heat resistant wood glue there is. It's because of this that people use it inspite of it's somewhat fiddly aspects. There is a ton of info on the MIMF about working with hide glue, such as warming the pieces to be jointed, and applying from a squeeze bottle with large bolts in it to retain heat.

There's no real need to use it on electrics, but certainly no reason not to if you know how.

Really? Weird, I thought it gave up at about 115 degrees

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Really? Weird, I thought it gave up at about 115 degrees

Only if wet. Titebond and epoxy will release with just heat, quite easily, hide glue needs moisture. Hide glue needs a lot more than 115 degrees if we're talking farenheit. It sets at about 95 degrees, should be kept at 145 for working, but once it's cured and set HARD, without moisture left, it won't let go (without humidity) until temps hit the 400 mark or so.

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