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Finding Holes

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For a pick guard I just re-drill using a smaller bit than the size of the mounting screws, I've found most guards to be off in one way or another on some models and with the top it give's you the chance to align the plate better.

On bridge's it's another story. Generally I take down notes and measurments from different reference points on the body before even getting started. you can always mark a point from the side with a piece of masking tape if need be and remove the tape later.

Since bridges have a fixed point because of the scale of the neck and all the formula's that go with it, if you do loose your place or points of reference you can always re-calculate the position it should be mounted in.

Doing that will require you to mount the neck, since it will be your main guide for alignment and also distance.

A good rule of thumb is to remember the distance between the trailing edge of the nut and the 12th fret will be equal to the distance between the 12th fret and the edge of the bridge saddles where the strings first touch.

Make sure your saddles are adjusted in the neutral or middle position so you will have plenty of room to adjust the intonation later. For case's such as a ash tray bridge on a Telecastor you'll have to take into account the extra amount of adjustment available with the screws which can make placement even easier.

Instead of using actual guitar strings for the alignment from side to side on the body tape common sewing thread to the outside saddle's and string it around the high and low E tuners. This will help you judge alignment so your strings down't fall off or go deep down the side's of the fret board.

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The simplest way is this,

Lay a sheet of clear mylar (like for an overhead projector) over the body before you put the veneer on. Then mark out all holes relative to something you can easily find, neck cavity, pickups etc.

Then, once your veneer is on, and you cut your cavities again, you lay the mylar back down, aligned with those cavities, tape it, and drill your holes through the mylar, into the wood.


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Hum Wax paper

zip it te du daaaa zip ity a

Since I'm going to have this very problem in a week or so... (Kit's here, BTW Brian. Taking my time and pictures.)

I was going to use the old "pencil trick". I was just going to take a piece of printer paper and tape it down to the body and rub with the side of the pencil lead.

That way, I'd have a reference from the pickup cavities, the control route, right down to the smallest screw hole.

Wait a sec, did someone say that they are putting a pickguard over the veneer? I hope it's a clear one...

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the reason I prefer the clear mylar is it's a little thicker, doesn't tear easy, won't distort, and will lay on in the exact same position and you can easily see the original cavity spaces again.

Now there's a thought. I've seen all these pictures of y'all dressing up the guitars with fabric and swirly paint... yadda yadda yadda... Now, what about the inside?

Recently, extreeme gaming PC's have clear cases, or windows cut in the sides, they have low voltage neon lights in them. All the cables are extra neat and bundled to look purdy.

Now, with a clear pick guard, it seems natural that you could also make the inside of the guitar just as interesting. Neat wire job, chrome plate the route "walls", or inlay Burl Walnut just on the inside...

Hmmmm... Experiment time again...

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