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Posted

Got some questions for my next project:

I will do something Tele-like with a baritone Padouk neck(ebony fretboard; deep set), a Walnut body and a goncalo alvez top, Tele style bridge + STB, Tele bridge middle'n'neck P90, BigD Varitone, Master Volume + push/push to activate the middle pup and a TBX as master tone

so:

I want to do a wooden pickguard which is recessed into the top and covered up with a thin plexi PG so that it doesn't lie on the top but in it. is that too fancy?

a) therefore I'd like to know if it makes sense to do a 7/16" thick top without any carving(never did that before so I don't know if I should do it especially on this guitar being Tele like), maybe an arm rest but that's it(I'll post a quick first drawing later). Does this make sense? using a top but not carving it? can someone show me some example of guitars which have something like that? But not like a Tele thinline or something... that's not really what I want, cos I won't use any f-holes in this guitar.

:D I want to do some weight loss chambering and to get some more open woodier tone, but keep feedback etc a small as possible, like with a normal solid body. Are there any rules for that? Or should I just rout some stripes into the walnut body like the warmoth chambered bodys have?

c) neck-joint wise I want to do something similar to myka guitars here: http://www.mykaguitars.com/instruments/039/default.htm

something like an all access neck and take some wood from the back of the guitar. Should I use a normal neck width at the joint or should I maybe make the neck half an inch or 1/4" broader for more stability if I won't use CF rods for the baritone neck(which will already be a chunky one for my big hands) or is there no need for that?

Posted

My last "chambered" guitar (The black guitar linked from this thread.) had a 1/4" top, and I have had no problems. No carve on mine either. I did leave plenty of wood underneath the bridge and neck joint, basically just chambered the "wings" (although it's set-neck, not thru-neck.)

I don't know how much the tone changed by being "chambered", but it seems much more "woody" and "open", a little more mids and a little more "full" than the other, similarly built guitar I made at the same time. (Which was made with mahogany from the same board, but has a different tailpiece and a 1/4" of walnut instead of wenge, and a different scale length and different pickups and different shape … so maybe not the best comparision - and I know those descriptive terms aren't great. But I love that guitar (will be sad to see leave this week, it was made for a friend)

But yeah, I basically chambered it like this picture, but w/o the chamber at the bottom. 1/4" top, no f-hole. Certainly no problems with feedback. If I turn the gain way up on my ac-30 clone, and rap the top with my knuckles, I can get a neat "door-knocking" sound out of my amp. (sounds cool through an octavia and a delay pedal!)

Actually, the strings seem to ring a little bit more when I tap the top of the guitar, so I can get some funky sort of bell-like feedback from the guitar by holding a chord and rapping on the body with the side of my thumb or palm with the gain up, which is useful if I *want* feedback, but I certainly don't have any problems with it feedbacking by accident.

I don't know how much an F-hole would change things.

I think a recessed wooden pickguard would be great looking. I've often been thinking of doing something like that myself, with a flying-v.

Posted

crapness. those guitars look nice... kind of inspiring for my planned edge design to rasp the top a bit more than the body.... and a flat top can look real slinky as well. I guess I feel a lot more comfortable with my plans now...

ok... hm. did you take all that wood out with a forstner bit? probably. less work than those dozens of small stripes. I was afraid to get too much annoying feedback from my guitar if I'd do it that way, this guitar being my math rock etc. axe and that might require some heavier tones from the guitar as well.

anyone else for the neck questions? :D

Posted

My last "chambered" guitar (The black guitar linked from this thread.) had a 1/4" top, and I have had no problems. No carve on mine either. I did leave plenty of wood underneath the bridge and neck joint, basically just chambered the "wings" (although it's set-neck, not thru-neck.)

I don't know how much the tone changed by being "chambered", but it seems much more "woody" and "open", a little more mids and a little more "full" than the other, similarly built guitar I made at the same time. (Which was made with mahogany from the same board, but has a different tailpiece and a 1/4" of walnut instead of wenge, and a different scale length and different pickups and different shape … so maybe not the best comparision - and I know those descriptive terms aren't great. But I love that guitar (will be sad to see leave this week, it was made for a friend)

But yeah, I basically chambered it like this picture, but w/o the chamber at the bottom. 1/4" top, no f-hole. Certainly no problems with feedback. If I turn the gain way up on my ac-30 clone, and rap the top with my knuckles, I can get a neat "door-knocking" sound out of my amp. (sounds cool through an octavia and a delay pedal!)

Actually, the strings seem to ring a little bit more when I tap the top of the guitar, so I can get some funky sort of bell-like feedback from the guitar by holding a chord and rapping on the body with the side of my thumb or palm with the gain up, which is useful if I *want* feedback, but I certainly don't have any problems with it feedbacking by accident.

I don't know how much an F-hole would change things.

I think a recessed wooden pickguard would be great looking. I've often been thinking of doing something like that myself, with a flying-v.

how did you do the control cavity on the chmbered guitar? .... I mean there ain't no wood left round there, right? and how bout shielding the electronics? copper spray or did oyu do it?

Posted (edited)

how did you do the control cavity on the chmbered guitar? .... I mean there ain't no wood left round there, right? and how bout shielding the electronics? copper spray or did oyu do it?

As you're not doing f-holes, get some shielding paint like this and paint all the cavities (and maybe the back of the top that'll be positioned at the cavities) with it. Completely invisible solution, and the guitar will be shielded.

As for the neck questions you had earlier, use a deep-set neck tenon (going back to the bridge pickup maybe?) and run it into the body with the taper of the neck, then carve the joint from behind. You shouldn't have any problems with too little wood.

Edited by Supernova9

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