guitarchump Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 I was considering making a guitar with a fiqured bubinga back and a quilt Makore top, but the guitar would end up only being 1 1/2 inches in thickness. I was even considering making it a semi hollow carve top as well. But is a 1/2 inch top even thich enough to carve? I havnt tryed a carve top yet and need the gaps to be filled in on the information on the thickness. Any help would be great. The bubinga I found is enough for two guitars and was only 25 bucks but only an inch thick. Quote
MiKro Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 I was considering making a guitar with a fiqured bubinga back and a quilt Makore top, but the guitar would end up only being 1 1/2 inches in thickness. I was even considering making it a semi hollow carve top as well. But is a 1/2 inch top even thich enough to carve? I havnt tryed a carve top yet and need the gaps to be filled in on the information on the thickness. Any help would be great. The bubinga I found is enough for two guitars and was only 25 bucks but only an inch thick. Not that it can't be done but 1/2" is quite thin for a carved top, 5/8 or better is the norm (unless very experienced) A thinline flat top would work with 1 1/2 " total thickness whereas, 1 3/4" would be the norm as far as minimum that most use. Others will probly chime in with more info on this. Quote
guitarchump Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Posted July 3, 2006 ok cool thats just what i needed. Damn why does this bubinga have to be all 1 inch thick! any ways thanks a lot Ok so if i get a 1 1/4 makore slab resawn so its book matched would it lose to from the resawing that i wouldn't be able to use it for a carve top? Quote
mammoth guitars Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 We have sold many 1/2 inch tops that were to be used as carved tops. Quote
verhoevenc Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 My up and coming project: 1/2" flamed _____ wood top, with 1" flamed ____ wood body (don't wanna give much away). The top will be carved, one of those carves where it extends PAST the top's material and into the back's material giving a nice contrast line view-able from the front. So it'll only be 1.5" thick in the center, about 1" at the sides, in some/most spots even slightly UNDER 1" at the sides. Also, having it hollow will also not be an issue.... go check out Scott French's website. He did it on that guitar he won GOTM with a bit back. Chris Quote
guitarchump Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Posted July 3, 2006 Thanks verhoevenc. I think I may have to steal the idea of the over carve if you dont mind. I think that would looks really nice with the contrasting dark bubinga and the light makore. By the way has anyone used Makore? Ive heared it is similar to cherry. And would it be ok as a laminate in a neck that also includes bubinga? Quote
brian d Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 Isn't bubinga a dense wood? If you had more than an inch thick, it'd probably be a reaalllly heavy body. Bringing the carve over the edge is probably the way to go. You may want to chamber the bubinga a bit too, just to cut the weight a bit. Cheers, Brian. Quote
johnsilver Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 A guitar 1 1/2" thick for the body is ok. That is the standard thickness of a Gibson SG for example. If your piece of Makore is 1 1/4 thick, a skilled shop should be able to resaw it such that you end up with two pieces at least 1/2" thick. That assumes the piece is already pretty flat and that cleanup after resawing is minimal. I recently had my local shop resaw a 6/4 piece of curly maple and I ended up with finished pieces 9/16" thick. Quote
verhoevenc Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 Steal away, mainly because there's no WAY I'm the first guy to do it lol. www.kritz.com do it www.scottfrench.com does it etc. etc. Chris Quote
MiKro Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 See I told ya others would chime in. I stand corrected and apologize for any miss information? LOL:)) Thanks guys for setting him straight. MK Quote
johnsilver Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 See I told ya others would chime in. I stand corrected and apologize for any miss information? LOL:)) Thanks guys for setting him straight. MK MiKro is right to caution about the thickness of the top and careful carving. On the piece of maple I mentioned above, I carved it to a Les Paul type carve (or as good as I can do one) and it came out ok but when sanding I sanded through the maple at the very edge at the waist. Its still ok, I'll just have to finish it differently than my original plan. I'm working on it today since I took the day off for the 4th. Quote
guitarchump Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Posted July 3, 2006 Ok thanks alot guys. Yes it will be chambered and have some koa binding and black and white purflling and a neck made of laminates from both woods. Hopefully it will work out ok. Quote
guitarchump Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Posted July 6, 2006 Well I got out bid on the makore so I May do a Cocobolo top. Time to buy a nice mask and pair of gloves. I hear its nasty stuff. If not I may have to go the normal flamed maple route. Whats your guys opinions? Types of top woods to choose from: Cocobolo, redwood, wenge, ZEBRA wood, claro walnut( if i can find a peice under 80 bucks), Koa( if i can find it cheap and wide enough). Whats your opinions? I Would love to hear them! Jeff Quote
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