j. pierce Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 I have a one-piece mahogany body I'm working on. Just put one-piece black plastic binding on it the other day. Used the tape the binding on, then glue it by wicking in water-thin CA glue method I have used in the past with success. Looking at it today, I realized I screwed up - my binding is flush against the body (so looking at the top it is fine) but looking at the sides, I realized in just a of couple of places I have a barely noticable gap along the bottom edge. I don't know how I managed to do this. I'm kind of bummed out. So I imagine my final decision is going to be to re-do the binding. (Probably route it off, I can't think of any other methods for getting the binding off after it's been CA'd in there) But in the meantime, I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas for "fixes" I could try - If something actually works well enough, I may just go with it. I'm up for trying a few things out, as long as it doesn't prevent me from starting the binding over again. (And I can't see what would) So anyone have ideas? Being plastic binding, I'm almost wondering if I can heat it up enough to soften it slightly and sort of flex it down a little bit to hide that gap. Doesn't seem like the best idea. Seems like a filler would work best. Would the black CA glue I've seen at the hobby store work as a filler? Can I dye epoxy that dark black? The gap is fine enough that I think as long as I can make it a non-noticable as a gap, fill it with something black, it wouldn't stand out. (I say that now, but I imagine I wouldn't be happy with it and still start it again) What about those laquer burn-in sticks? I have a black one of those at home, but no idea how to use it. Is there anyway to get the CA glue to give? If I could get just this one or two small areas to give, I might be able to re-position it. Eh, I think I'm going to have to do it again, no biggie, but any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks. (BTW, My planned finish is the System 3 epoxy grainfill followed up by KTM-9 waterbase laquer, for compatibilities sake if anyone has ideas that depend on what goes on top of this) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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