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Posted

Hello. I was looking at this hardtail bridge from guitar fetish and it doesn't really give much information about it. I was wondering if anyone has used it and could answer some questions.

1. It doesn't say anything about how it is installed. I don't think I'd need to use a router for anything but the strings are probably fed through the body and I use ferrules, right? It doesn't say anything about being top loading.....

2. Does anybody happen to know the radius? I was hoping to use this with a 12" radius fingerboard....

If anybody has used this bridge or knows about it then I would appreciate any help. Thanks in advance. :D

Posted

1. You wouldnt need a router because it just fits straight onto the top of the guitar.

It probably is intened as a string-through body bridge (ie you would need ferules) although I cannot say that with certainty as I've never bought that specific bridge. I've got a near-identical one though

It says its designed for a tele as well, which makes me even more convinced its a string-through bridge

2. It can be whatever radius you want it to be- the height of each saddle can be adjusted individually- so you could use it with your fingerboard

As I said, I've never bought that exact bridge, but I have one thats almost 100% identical, and bridges of that style are pretty common

Posted

Hello. I was looking at this hardtail bridge from guitar fetish and it doesn't really give much information about it. I was wondering if anyone has used it and could answer some questions.

1. It doesn't say anything about how it is installed. I don't think I'd need to use a router for anything but the strings are probably fed through the body and I use ferrules, right? It doesn't say anything about being top loading.....

2. Does anybody happen to know the radius? I was hoping to use this with a 12" radius fingerboard....

If anybody has used this bridge or knows about it then I would appreciate any help. Thanks in advance. :D

Posted

Thanks. That's what I thought about the bridge too, I just wanted to confirm it. :D And sorry to change topic slightly, but I was thinking that a wraparound bridge might be nice instead (just an idea for now). Has anyone used this one before and happens to know the radius? It looks the nicest to me out of the ones on that site. And Mickguard, I think I've read that you've used wraparounds before. Not sure if this is the same as the one you used before, but any comments? Mainly for all these bridges I was just wanting to know the radius' and how easy they are to install.... Sorry for all the questions guys, thanks for putting up with me. :D

Posted

Sorry for all the questions guys, thanks for putting up with me. :D

My question is: what guitar are you working on? Is this a new build or are you trying to modify an existing guitar.

Because you can't just slap any old bridge on an existing guitar and hope it'll work. And if you're building your own, the different bridge types require a different treatment of the neck.

ALL of guitarfetish's parts, including his pickups, are cheap imports --hell, even the Wilkinson stuff is cheap licensed stuff (but better quality, presumably). Then again, a lot of parts these days--even the stuff with the hefty price tags--are imported from some Asian sweatshop or other. That's just how it goes.

The problem I have with guitarfetish is not that his parts are cheap, it's just that I feel he's misrepresenting them --the photography and the overdose of marketing blah-blah make his parts seem like a lot more than they are. Otherwise, his parts are exactly the same as the non-branded parts StewMac or the dozens of other ebay sellers are pumping.

And I've ordered enough parts from him to be able to judge the quality. For the price (never pay his store price--look at his auctions on ebay, you'll usually pay half as much), the parts are just fine. But the plating is cheap, the specifications are not very precise, etc.

For the price, they're great. But for my guitars? Not good enough anymore.

It took me a while, but I've come around to realizing that there's no point in cheaping out on certain parts--and the bridge is a pretty critical part of a guitar.

Now as for these specific bridges --I've switched from the Badass style to the compensated because I don't like all those little parts, and the Badass is pretty heavy too (I have a 'real' Badass bridge here). I'm not very **** about intonation -- I'm no shredder, it's not really a huge issue when I play. If it is an issue to you, then the more adjustability you have, the better, obviously.

But the Badass and wraparounds are generally standardized at a 12" radius, I believe. You can alway notch the Badass saddles to match your radius though.

Posted

Thanks for all the advice Mickguard. B) Since you're wondering what projects I'm working on I'll tell you. I just finished a saga kit (still having those wiring troubles though) and I currently don't have enough money to start a new guitar, so I've actually been working on a dulcimer I started long ago. All of my questions in the past have generally been about two builds that I eventually want to do...a flying v and a prs-ish maple top. I figured I'd do the flying v first and keep it really simple, then move on to the harder project. And if I'm going to make it nice, then I think I will listen to you and get better hardware. Seems to me that you like Stewmac better...? Anyway, right now I've just been doing lots of research on how I want to make my guitars when the time comes (stupid college wastes a lot of my money :D )

EDIT: About that top loading bridge in your link, it says that it requires a routed channel in the guitar body. What exactly does that mean? If the strings don't go through the body, does something else? If so, that's not exactly top loading.... :D

Posted

EDIT: About that top loading bridge in your link, it says that it requires a routed channel in the guitar body. What exactly does that mean? If the strings don't go through the body, does something else? If so, that's not exactly top loading.... :D

You have to remove some of the wood beneath the bridge to accommodate the ball ends of the strings. It doesn't have to be much, just enough to get the ball ends wedged in there. It's a hell of a lot easier than trying to get string-through ferrules lined up.

The big advantage I see that Stewmac has is that you can get pretty much everything you need from them --so you only pay once for shipping. Usually that means that Stewmac ends up being a lot less expensive than going to five or six different vendors for your parts.

Otherwise, Stewmac sources its no-name parts from the same factories, no doubt.

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