Camo Paint Help

[xadam270x]

alright, so this is my first project. i bought a epiphone special for 30 bux. it was in rough shape, the kid i got it from sanded down in random spots and colored it back in with a magic marker not to mention it had a ton of dents, and the hardware was total junk. so i have sold all the stuff that was on it except for the neck plate, cavity cover, and the truss rod cover.

i have it sanded and the primer has just now dried. so now i need to know if i can get some tips on how to paint camo. the layout, pattern, if the flat colors will shine up if i put gloss on it. any help i can get is appriciated.

thanx

xadamx

[xadam270x]

and do i have to sand again after the primer is on?

xadamx

[Dino]

and do i have to sand again after the primer is on?

xadamx

Edited July 19, 2006 by Dino

[xadam270x]

man that is an awesome job. since i was using flat colors anyway i didnt think i would have to sand between em, and will the clear coat make the more vibrant instead of the dull flat?

Edited July 20, 2006 by xadam270x

[Dino]

man that is an awesome job. since i was using flat colors anyway i didnt think i would have to sand between em, and will the clear coat make the more vibrant instead of the dull flat?

My comments regarding sanding in between coats was just a general statement.

I would NOT sand in btween coats if using flat colors, however you should take extra time in doing your body prep.

Yes, clear will make the colors more vibrant, however I have decided to clearcoat mine just to even out all of the different layers of the graphics. Then I'll wetsand and just leave the finish dull to give it more of a military "look".

IMO, camo just looks better and alot more realistic without a shine.

[Racer X]

How's that camo, coming, Dino. Dying to see pics of the completed guitar!

[DJohnson]

That camo job rocks!

[Dino]

Thanks guys.

Just waiting on a few parts, and she'll be good to go.

[Racer X]

Picha, picha picha! Me want picha!

[PaintIt]

alright, so this is my first project. i bought a epiphone special for 30 bux. it was in rough shape, the kid i got it from sanded down in random spots and colored it back in with a magic marker not to mention it had a ton of dents, and the hardware was total junk. so i have sold all the stuff that was on it except for the neck plate, cavity cover, and the truss rod cover.

i have it sanded and the primer has just now dried. so now i need to know if i can get some tips on how to paint camo. the layout, pattern, if the flat colors will shine up if i put gloss on it. any help i can get is appriciated.

thanx

xadamx

If you are going to clear the camo it does not really matter if the colors are shiny or flat. The final shine will be relative to the clear used. Use a flat clear and it will all be flat regardless of the paint shine. If I were painting any object with automotive paints this is how I would do it.

1. Prime

2 Spray the lightest color of the camo as the base.

3. mask out the light color shapes

4. spray the medium color

5. mask out the medium color shapes

6. paint the darkest color and unmask

7 spray Gloss clearcoat to level the desgn

8 sand the gloss coat perfectly smooth

9. Spray a couple coats of Clear that has had flattener added to get the matte finish.

The reason for using the gloss clear to level is that it dries harder than the matt clear.

This process is for Automotive basecoat clear coat system but would also work with spray can but the drying time would be lengthed greatly.

hope this helps

[xadam270x]

yeah dude, that helps a ton. im still struggling to find a pattern i like, i think i may just wing it and go at it on my own and hope for the best.

[Dino]

If I were painting any object with automotive paints this is how I would do it.

1. Prime

2 Spray the lightest color of the camo as the base.

3. mask out the light color shapes

4. spray the medium color

5. mask out the medium color shapes

6. paint the darkest color and unmask

7 spray Gloss clearcoat to level the desgn

8 sand the gloss coat perfectly smooth

9. Spray a couple coats of Clear that has had flattener added to get the matte finish.

Spraying the lightest color of the camo as your base would only work if you're going for a lighter camo design, such as the Desert Strom camo.

This was the order in which I did mine in order to achieve a more comventional camo look ...

1. Olive Green as your base

2. Then brown patterns

3. Then khaki patterns

Had I not used the color black for stripes, I would have then used black for my third and final patterns.

Guess it really all depends on the look you're going for and which camo design you want to achieve.

Good luck.

[PaintIt]

If I were painting any object with automotive paints this is how I would do it.

1. Prime

2 Spray the lightest color of the camo as the base.

3. mask out the light color shapes

4. spray the medium color

5. mask out the medium color shapes

6. paint the darkest color and unmask

7 spray Gloss clearcoat to level the desgn

8 sand the gloss coat perfectly smooth

9. Spray a couple coats of Clear that has had flattener added to get the matte finish.

Spraying the lightest color of the camo as your base would only work if you're going for a lighter camo design, such as the Desert Strom camo.

This was the order in which I did mine in order to achieve a more comventional camo look ...

1. Olive Green as your base

2. Then brown patterns

3. Then khaki patterns

Had I not used the color black for stripes, I would have then used black for my third and final patterns.

Guess it really all depends on the look you're going for and which camo design you want to achieve.

Good luck.

It can be done either way of course. The reason I use the lightest colors and go darker is an issue of coverage. The darker colors need less coats to achieve the color so you get less of an edge when unmasking each color. This saves tim in the clearing stage when you are trying to bury those paint edges.

I have done it both ways and the design does indeed dictate the best method.

[xadam270x]

well i laid the olive green down this morning and painted the neck black again and laid the graphics out on the headstock so that is done until i clear it.

so to get the camo design on do i mask it off then draw on the shapes for the first color, and after i have them on cut them out with a razor blade?

[Dino]

Here's a pic that illustrates the process pretty well ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/Din...moProgress1.jpg

And here's a pic that shows the masking technique I used ...

Basically what I did was take the backing off decal paper and cover it with masking tape.

I then drew the patterns, cut them out, and used the negative of what I cut out to mask the guitar.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/Din...moProgress2.jpg

I also use a product called "Sticky Micky's" masking paper.

It's mainly used in the automotive industry and works well for these types of graphics, however I didn't want to have to cut out the shapes while the paper was on the guitar body. Cutting them out with scissors made for smoother patterns and I didn't have to worry about leaving razor blade marks in the finish.

Dino, your pics are a bit too large!!! And only one allowed per forum rules.

Edited July 31, 2006 by Maiden69

[xadam270x]

how did you get the paper to fit so well on the curves and bends of the body?

[PaintIt]

"

I also use a product called "Sticky Micky's" masking paper.

It's mainly used in the automotive industry and works well for these types of graphics, however I didn't want to have to cut out the shapes while the paper was on the guitar body. Cutting them out with scissors made for smoother patterns and I didn't have to worry about leaving razor blade marks in the finish.

"

Nice job on the guitar and also the progression pics. Alsway hard to remember to take them at the correct time.

I like to use the positive shapes or masks which is another reason I start with the light colors and work darker. I first paint the light color and stick the shapes to the object and then paint the medium color. Next I stick the medium color shapes leaving the light colored shapes covered. Spray the dark color over the whole thing and remove the masking from the light and medium shapes. I find it easier to lay out the positive shapes and you also do not have to mask of the whole guitar each time. No wrong way to do this just different.

I use application tape for a lot of masking (similar to Sticky Mickeys) and it is available at any sign supply store. I have a plotter so I use a lot of Gerber Mask which is a low tack paint mask vinyl. This same material ccan be cut by hand and has good flex for going around curved areas.

[Dino]

"

I also use a product called "Sticky Micky's" masking paper.

It's mainly used in the automotive industry and works well for these types of graphics, however I didn't want to have to cut out the shapes while the paper was on the guitar body. Cutting them out with scissors made for smoother patterns and I didn't have to worry about leaving razor blade marks in the finish.

"

Nice job on the guitar and also the progression pics. Alsway hard to remember to take them at the correct time.

I like to use the positive shapes or masks which is another reason I start with the light colors and work darker. I first paint the light color and stick the shapes to the object and then paint the medium color. Next I stick the medium color shapes leaving the light colored shapes covered. Spray the dark color over the whole thing and remove the masking from the light and medium shapes. I find it easier to lay out the positive shapes and you also do not have to mask of the whole guitar each time. No wrong way to do this just different.

I use application tape for a lot of masking (similar to Sticky Mickeys) and it is available at any sign supply store. I have a plotter so I use a lot of Gerber Mask which is a low tack paint mask vinyl. This same material ccan be cut by hand and has good flex for going around curved areas.

I agree there are several ways to do it and starting with the lighter colors and using the "positive" cut-out of the pattern will give the same results.

For me, it was just easier to anticipate the layout of the patterns by using the "negative" pattern method.

You're right though ... either way would work just fine.