Gluing Binding With Cyanoacrylate Glues....

[Prostheta]

Two methods for not getting your fingers glued to the binding if you have excess.

1 - Keep your finger moving as though you are "smoothing" your binding. This doesn't keep constant pressure on the binding however, if it wants to pop off.

2 - Use some old coarse grit sandpaper as a barrier between your fingers and the binding. The glue doesn't stick to the paper as it can't fill the voids between the grits - unless you flood the binding in which case it won't glue anyway!

Yes, I did learn this by glueing myself to my new Ash/Koa Telecaster. More than once.

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[thegarehanman]

Another tip: masking tape is like a roll of clamps when you're gluing binding.

[Prostheta]

I would have used masking tape, but the binding I'm using is .09" x .25" (2.29mm x 6.35mm) which requires a lot of pressure to keep set in tighter corners!

[Drak]

I hate to say this, but what's happening is that you're just learning how to use CA glue for binding.

Once you do it several times, you will get to the point where you won't need any prosthetics ( ) to help you like that.

Get your gluing down to a very controlled and careful execution, and you won't need anything but your fingertip, and you won't get any glue (or very very little) glue squeezeout.

So maybe that stuff works when starting out, but you won't need it anymore if you do a few more.

Personally, I don't like the idea of dragging coarse grit sandpaper over my binding.

Practice.

[Setch]

The best trick is to prebend the tight radii. I've held onto sections for 10 minutes, only to have them pop open because the bend was too tight for a straight piece of binding material. Prebend any tight areas, and the intial tack of adhesion will hold them in place, with a bit of masking tape every few inches.

Also, seal the binding channel with shellac, or the CA will get wicked away into the end grain, which causes poor adhesion, and staining of the wood, which makes dark patches in your finish and is virtually impossible to sand out.

[fryovanni]

Here is another tip. Don't use CA if it is strictly wood to wood at that kind of width. I use Titebond. Get binding tape it is much stronger than masking (which does work great for 70% of the body that does not require as much pressure.). Pre-bend (be careful not to overbend)-tape will do the job if you have bent the binding properly(if you are forcing or bending the wood that much you take a chance on cracking the wood or a lumpy surface). Bind with slightly thinner wood and use a purfed detail for your top and or back edge (a nice strip of black white or black white fine line binding makes for a really classy line). I think Ash/Koa is a cool combo- nice.

Peace,Rich

[Prostheta]

Thanks guys - this is all a learning process of course, so doing things wrong only helps to accelerate the process a little more ;-)

Now I've bound the top successfully (only a couple of minor defects which I can remedy easily) I'm going to veneer and bind the back today. Any quick pointers on pre-bending plastic binding? I've heard hair dryers don't budge it, and I don't own (or want to go to the expense of) a heat gun.

[Setch]

Try the hair dryer. It won't be as fast as a hotair gun, but it'll soften it a bit.

Alternatively, keep a pan of simmering wter by you, and dunk the binding, then pop it in place, hold it in the curve till it cools, and repeat until it fits with very light finger pressure.

[Prostheta]

I'll try these today and post results tonight. Thanks guys!

[johnsilver]

Try the hair dryer. It won't be as fast as a hotair gun, but it'll soften it a bit.

+1. I use a small hair dryer to soften binding and it works fine. I mostly use celluloid nitrate binding.

[Prostheta]

Duh. Locked my keys in the workshop and I now have to wait until my wife gets home from work to unlock it....GAH!!!