CA glue

[daveq]

I've always tried to stay away from CA (super) glue when possible. A recent topic about cutting fret slots (a bit fiery - whew!) reminded me. It seems like CA glue sets very very quickly. When using it for fretting, what keeps it from setting while you're trying to get the fret seated properly? Suppose you need to adjust something or re-start while pressing the fret in - screwed, right? I know I ran into a similar issue when gluing inlays - I got it partially in and it stuck before I had a chance to finish seating it .

So how do you keep that stuff from ruining your fret work? Do most of you use the technique where you apply the glue after the fret is seated? If so, doesn't that stain the fretboard when the glue gets apsorbed in? (Same question for inlays.)

I'd appreciate any clues you can provide on working with this stuff. I have some experience with fretting so please don't confuse my question with needing help with fretting techniques.

Thanks,

Dave

[westhemann]

i was on a super glue site recently and they had types with slower setting times if i remember right

[Kevan]

CA (which stands for cyanoacrylate) is what we call "super glue". It comes in many forms (liquid, gel, semi-solid), and even in colors (I've seen black, clear, white and red). It was originally designed for the troops in Vietnam, to help quickly seal up the brutal cuts caused by the jungle grass.

Try some out on your finger some time. Notice how brittle it will become. It's a great glue, with incredible holding properties, but much like epoxy, it can be brittle. Given, you don't have much flex going on with frets. So, if you can find a slower-setting CA, it might not get as brittle as the 'original' and will help you with your seat times.

CA is not toxic to skin. It doesn't 'burn' or 'sting' when applied. This means there's a lack of solvents in it. So, it's safe to use on wood (which usually has it's own protective oil, much like human skin). CA shouldn't stain your wood and can be removed with a little bit of soap and water (via q-tip, or sponge) and some elbow grease. Another good idea is to tape the fretboard to protect it during the inlay/fretting processes. Remember: tape is your friend! :-)

Personally, I would set the fret, lay down the CA, then finish seating, as quickly as possible. If you can, find an applicator with a long, thin nozzle tip that can get into tight places easily.

I'll get LGM to post his suggestions in here. He's done a ton more re-fretting than I have. And his inlays...well...if you've missed them....I can't help ya there. LOL

[Scott Rosenberger]

The thicker the consistancy of the super glue, the longer it takes to set. When I fret a neck i use the medium consistancy super glue and apply it to 4-7 fret slots at a time depending the temperature outside.(it dries faster when hotter) then press the frets in, and work my way down the neck from there. Someone mentioned that it doesn't stain the wood which is correct, however if you use accelerator to help it cure faster some accelerators will stain a maple fingerboard sort of greening yellow. I found out the hard way