Neck-laminates Too Wide?

[Tinu_CH]

Hello Folks!

I'm planning to build two sevenstring-guitars with a friend of mine, and were planning to do 3pc maple/mahogany necks.

How wide would you recommend the thru-neck to be all-in-all? I was planning on making it 80mm wide (wide at 24th is 68mm) what do you think of that?

Well, and secondly, how wide should the center laminate be? I figured out, that if I would do it 30mm, I would have to spend much less money on the wood as if I would do it more narrow. -> So 30mm would be the ideal measurement. (theoretically )

The problem is: the maple-sidelaminates will only be 9mm at the nut (48mm nut width, 30mm center laminate)

Will this decrease the stability of my neck??? I hope you know, what my problem is, otherwise just tell me, I may try to explain it better

Thanks for suggestions and help!!!

Greez Martin

Edited September 15, 2006 by Tinu_CH

[low end fuzz]

you could taper the center laminate so the maple on both sides are uniform all thru the neck; but if its a 'thru neck' design then it will also be tapered in the body; which isnt that bad;

if your really worried about it, use something stronger than mahogany and it will be more than enough; i dont like mahogany, but the glue on both sides of it should keep it from going anywhere

[Tinu_CH]

Thanx! I may go for 3 pieces of maple, if I happen to find them with you know... different wood "run" - I dont know how to say it in english... Just the stripes in the wood! As they must be in different directions, it might be hard to find that. I won't go for tapered, sounds too complicated

Thanx!

Edited September 16, 2006 by Tinu_CH

[low end fuzz]

different family;

making the outside pieces of the same 'family' and the middle one diffent looks asthetically pleasing

[thegarehanman]

Tinu, tapered laminates are easy if you can get(or have, for that matter) access to a thickness planer or thickness sander. See the link in my signature.

peace,

russ

[low end fuzz]

it obvioslly works for you to do them on a thickness sander, but after reading your page dont understand how you got it to work;

the technique im familiar with is on a table saw;

i liked your equation for working out the angle; ive been using trial and error;

glue one side of laminates (including middle) run thru ancle jig on tablesaw; plane flat, and glue the other half on;

but i just got my OWN thickness sander so maybe i 'll give that a whirl!

[thegarehanman]

What's not to understand. Set the wood into the jig as per the illustration and run through the thickness sander until you get it to your finished thickness, easy peasy.

[thegarehanman]

Edited September 18, 2006 by thegarehanman

[low end fuzz]

i was refering more to the patience of removing wood ; i only thickness tops and glue lines; and that is boring; i sand for bumps and defects; cut to remove stock ;

i read my first post and i did say i didnt get it; not exactly what i meant

Edited September 18, 2006 by low end fuzz

[fryovanni]

i was refering more to the patience of removing wood ; i only thickness tops and glue lines; and that is boring; i sand for bumps and defects; cut to remove stock ;

i read my first post and i did say i didnt get it; not exactly what i meant

60-80 grit will taper lams in short order (2-5 min. tops). If you have a lot of stock to remove you can always take a ruff pass on a saw. Setting wood on a converyor and letting the sander do it's thang may not be exiting, but it gets the job done .

Peace,Rich

[thegarehanman]

I used a thickness planer, to be honest.

I used a thickness planer, to be honest.