Drilling Holes In A Finished Body...

[Logical Frank]

I want to install a switch for a coil tap in one of my guitars which means drilling a small hole. Is there some way to do this that minimizes the risk of chipping the finish? I was thinking I might try to score a small circle through the finish just slightly larger than the hole I wanted which would hopefully stop it from chipping any farther than that point. Or I might just not worry about it.

[prauny]

Ive heard of people putting masking tape on the spot where they want the hole to minimise cracking. Its meant to work well.

[Logical Frank]

I was thinking that would work too. I'm honestly not that worried about the finish on this sucker (if I was I would likely not be drilling holes in it) so I think I might just try the masking tape for all the trouble it would save me.

[Desopolis]

one thing I might suggest before drilling new holes is to see how much space you have in the control cavity.

if theres enough try a switching pot.

that way when its down its normal, pull up on the pot and it goes coil tapping.

plus you dont have to drill any holes and no one would know.

[Logical Frank]

Oh--I thought about the push/pull pot and don't really want it. For one, I wanted it so I could get either the north or south coil in addition to humbucking and as far as I've found there's no center-off push/pull pots which is what I need unless I wanted to do two push/pull pots. And, for two, I think the switch will look pretty cool.

[Desopolis]

oh agreed. i just thought you wanted only one...

when we do stuff with cars we use the sharpest bits we can use, usually use a super strong tape and actually drill through it.

also avoid putting weight onto the bit, the preasure can cause it to crack. let it drill out the material slowly.(but spinning highspeed) once your through the paint you should be fine.

and if it does chip alittle, most switches have a bevel abit larger then the hole to hide the edges..

Edited September 19, 2006 by Desopolis

[spazzyone]

Try drilling in reverse until you break through the finish

then switch to foward rotation to finish the hole

this has always worked for me

Edited September 19, 2006 by spazzyone

[ryanb]

Use a sharp brad point bit.

[Logical Frank]

Well--I did it. I just used a regular drillbit and w/ a bit of masking tape over the finish. Worked like a charm. Thanks.

Of course, I'm not 100% sure if I got the wiring correct but I think I'm gonna deal w/ that later...

[Digideus]

Thats an old trick on ceramic tiles as well. A little insulation tape prevents the drill bit cracking the enamel coat on the tile.

[al heeley]

helps stop it skidding around too before the bit bites.

[Wonko]

With some soft or brittle woods, tape only helps a bit, and a cracked edge (wood or paint) is likely with any standard drill bit. There are bits made for this. They have spurs on the outside of the cutting faces designed cut the circumfrence of the hole BEFORE the center of the bit puts any real pressure on the wood. It's the only way to go, if you want to be sure. Mine are brad-pointd to keep the spurs from dancing across the work.