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Clay Inlays And Relic Tools,relic Marks,relic Hardware


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How can i make my neck with clay inlays? what machine puts the clay inlays in? where do i get the clay inlays please?

What relicing tools is there to make relic marks,nicks,scraches,scraps?

Most early 60's strats didn't have a lacquer or gloss over the nitrocellour paint right? so just using sand paper would take off the nitrocellous paint? i heard using flat head screw drivers to or a paint scrapper, cheese cutters, house keys

What chemicals or solvents or sprays names/brands are used to soak in the hardware? springs,jacks,saddles,bridges,tuners,knobs,pickup covers,pickguard? (to make them look relic old)

If i get a strat wood body what is the painting processes? i add what kind of wood filer oil or what other kind? do i add white ash or primer? when do i but the clear lacquer on after the wood filer? do i sand the lacquer and then add the nitrocellous colour paint and then spray a clear nitrocellour paint over it?

Relicing a guitar Neck "Back"process:

I buy the woodneck just pure wood do i sand it and then add a wood stain? it looks like relic luthers really sand the back of the neck but they stain it too and they don't add that glossy lacquer at all it seem which i like so feel the wood or they add some stain oil?

Relicing a guitar neck "front" process:

I have seen old fender strat and teles have wore out finger boards is this done with stain and sand paper files? or just sand paper to make the finger marks on the fret boards mostly on Maple necks not rosewood i have seen dark black finger wore out marks inbetween the fret to fret space where your fingers go there is worn out marks but how do u make them please?

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Which question do you want answered first?

First of all, "clay" fingerboard dots aren't clay at all; they're just cream-colored plastic. Warmoth sells some cream-colored phenolic dots that are dead ringers for the so-called "clay" dots. To install them all you need is a 1/4" brad-point drill bit and some glue. Mark the EXACT center of the dot's location with an awl or a push pin, and drill the hole about 1/16" deep. Squirt in some Titebond (for example) and press the dot into place. Then it's simply a case of leveling the top surface with a file until it's flush with the surrounding fingerboard wood.

Secondly, one of the easiest ways to "relic" most metal guitar hardware is to use DILUTED muriatic acid ... which is commonly available at most paint suppliers. It's used to etch the surface lime off of concrete before painting it. I use is an old glass cooking pot with a glass top. DO NOT just dunk the parts in the acid however. Use something like an old plastic pickup box (or something equivalent) as a stand inside the pot, to keep the part to be etched suspended over the acid. Pour about an inch of muriatic acid in the pot, place the part to be etched on the stand, and put the lid on the pot. The process is called "fuming" and it doesn't take long for the acid fumes inside that pot to etch chrome or nickel plating.

In case it isn't obvious, I STRONGLY suggest practicing this technique on old chrome-plated junk -- like el-cheapo forks and spoons from the junk store -- before even thinking about trying it on your guitar hardware.

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