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Ive been browsing here for almost a year now, and finally decided to sign up. Ok wasnt exactly sure what section amp questions would go into, but here we go anyways. Id love it if you guys could answer some of my questions.

Ok im making myself a little 112 cabinet. Ive never made cabinets before, but im good at woodworking. Pretty much what i want to know is, what are some dos and donts of cabinet making? Maybe post some pics of open cabinets, just give me some tips, and possibly post some links or something. This would be great guys, i really appreciate your help. Maybe just some general knowledge on the construction of cabinets and stuff. Thanks for the help guys.


Edited by farlee
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Look at the cabinets that have made their mark on the industry and figure out why they're the masters. That said, Marshall 1960 cabs look like crap on the inside but have been servicing drunken metallers (and by their drunken roadies) for centuries.

1/2" birch ply seems to be the weapon of choice with solid circa 1"-2" bracing. As for dimensions, porting and padding I have no idea myself. I know there's a lot of math and science behind it, but I think common sense achieves 90% of all that anyway.

Sorry if I didn't post the do's and don'ts you wanted, but I'll give them a go.

DO make the cabinet strong and stable.

DO protect your speakers and input sockets

DO use dovetails/combs wherever possible

DO seal potential air gaps other than planned porting

DO NOT make it tartan or plush covered

DO NOT lick 9v batteries

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awesome, thanks for the tips dude. Anyone else? Im kind of wondering about something too, maybe someone can answer me. I know you have the four sides, and a removable back, but then theres the front. My question is, for the front is it kind of recessed in, non removable, with the hole cut for the speaker, and then an insert for the grille. Or is it like the piece with the speaker with the grillecloth over that, then screwed in? Just kind of wondering. I really gotta go look at some other cabinets

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My experience is with 4x12s primarily. The front board is inserted from the back and secured to the interior of the front which is "lipped in". The strut(s) attached to the front board are pushed forward slightly by the backboard giving better stability. Threaded bolt inserts are essential, the ones which mount on the far face of the board with a broad face and teeth which bite backwards into the board. Search on Google Images for Marshall Cabinet for an interior shot. I believe that a small 1x12 cabinet wouldn't require this level of stability as it's size would give it that anyway. Simple 1" bracing inside and 1/2" birch ply would be overkill but would get the job done for sure :-D

Glued, screwed, and you're fine!

In fact, you've inspired me to tackle building a short 15"/18" extension cab for my Trace Elliot 4x10....!! This isn't good dude, because I always have way too many projects on as it is....

Please keep us up to date with your designs and progress of course!

Edited by Prostheta
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I haven't got any to hand, but if you Google marshall cabinet then there are a few internal shots. I would have thought there'd be a few different cab shots from different manufacturers also if you dig around. Basically, the front board which the speaker(s) mount to is inserted from the back, and secured to the front lip from inside. This means the board (from the front) is recessed and well protected.

There aren't that many specific rules to building cabinets unless you go to the lengths of reducing resonances or porting etc. Some people prefer infinite baffle enclosures (sealed, like Marshalls and most 4x12s) although open enclosures (think combo amps, ported cabs) have different characteristics also.

Best thing to do is to build one up and mount your speaker in there. Experiment with having a backboard on or off, see how a bit of wadding inside changes the sound and you can get a feel for what you prefer. Also refer to the speaker manufacturers tech specs to see if the speakers are designed to work in specific enclosures (closed, open) etc.

I want to go buy a dovetail jig now, and make a 1x18!

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see if this link helps you


the results will show what they have for drivers

but you can use thier parimeters to find a matching driver of a brand your interested in

Edited by spazzyone
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