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Nitro Vs Poly..


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Nitro VS Poly..

I had some questions and I did a brief search but nothing came up.

I also read over MH’s book last night but figured I could get more in depth insight here.

here's the basics of my guitar:


but that was when I still planed on a maple neck. its now this:


here is the render I made:


Now, my question is what are the big differences between the two?

I know poly cures in a few days.

Nitro can take a week, or months, and is never fully cured.

I think Nitro Can take a dye in a standard clear, but do you have to use a special poly? or can I dye it too?

I know you can use less poly then Nitro, and that you don’t have to wait a few days/weeks for the color to cure.

I’m moving in 51 days, and I don’t want to be waiting on these to dry, plus I’m probably going to rent a booth to spray it as I don’t have a compressor here. and I have to pay buy time.

my plan on finishing were as follows:

fine sand

Grey grain filler on body, black stain on maple.

sand back on both

Red dye on pickguard area(or should I reverse the 2?)

clear coat(sand sealer)

2 coats on the body of white dyed paint or candy white

1000 grit

remaining clear on whole guitar(how many coats)

how many coats should I use on the neck?

I heard somewhere to use oil, but I also heard I will have to re-oil it allot..

witch looks better in the end?

any reason ones better?

any suggestions?

Edited by Desopolis
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I'm not trying to be a downer, but by the sound of your questions, you haven't done much spray finishing before, and are expecting professional results the first time out of the gate (unless I'm mistaken, in which case correct me here), so the bit about moving in 51 days is sort of a moot point, as I would tell you if you got it right AT ALL the first time I would be impressed, with either finish.

I'd just practice some spray shoots on some scrap for the 51 day period, then when you've shot some scrap and brought it all the way up to finished and buffed, then do the guitar after you move and are resettled.

But what do I know, it only took me about 6 months' worth of shooting and maybe 10 bodies to finally get the hang of what I was doing to the point where I actually wanted to keep and play something I had shot finish on... :D

You can ask all the questions you want and plan it out to the last degree, all very well intentioned things, but actually doing it is quite another thing alltogether...that's really the ground zero point, the real starting point, this is all preliminary stuff. :D

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absolutly right, I havent done much to anything beisdes cars.

Honestly Im going to have a motorcycle paint shop do the spraying(the rental booth) I just am curious as to witch spray to use. and I want alittle understanding for myself. when I get back in TX I'll have a sprayer and I plan on randomly painting things often.. But I want to get these done before I move.

basicly, I want to use poly so I can get the most of the painting done in a day. But if its going to look like garbage Id rather wait untill I get back. Im also curious if I can just buy a clear poly, and color stain it translucent colors so I can save a bit on paint (my other ones black)

that way I can worry more on the color dyes and grain fillers.. then take it to the booth, spend a day there with him spraying, let em dry overnite, take them home, continue letting then dry for a few days. buff. and enjoy.

Edited by Desopolis
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Well, you're picture certainly depicts a white-tinted finish shot over a (dark) grainfilled Ash body.

I know you can do that easily with white pigment and Nitro, but I don't shoot poly, so I couldn't tell you about how you would mix white into clear poly.

BTW, the amount of white you add to get that effect is VERY small, comparatively speaking.

I have a video (Spray Finishing With Colors, StewMac/Erlewine) that shows how to do that exact finish, and he uses a really small dab of white pigment to do that finish, barely much more than would fit on the tip of a knife, FWIW.

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I've tinted ppg's omni line of poly and some other brand of poly(was an off brand, the name doesn't immediately come to mind) with stewmac's colortone dyes and opaque pigments before with satisfactory results. It will take you a while to figure out what concentration you want to use, so mix up a few test batches before settling on your final ratio.



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hmm... I wonder if I could just color stain it? and just wipe it on.

Nope. White isn't a dye that can be accepted into the wood's pores, it's a pigment, and you get -that- specific look (in your pic) by mixing the white into the finish itself and shooting 1 or 2 light passes over dark-filled porefiller, then clearcoating over top of it.

Trying to wipe it on would yield you 100% dung for a guitar finish, you really don't want to go there. :D

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