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Posted

I and mounting tuners at a sharp angle to the the fretboard. Meaning, after the string passes the nut, it will go close to an 80-degree angle sideways. (Picture an extreme Explorer headstock). What's the best way to direct the string to the nut?

I want the string to straighten out before the nut, so it needs to wrap around something.

I am trying to use strap buttons for the string wrap, but wonderd if there was a better way.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Mike

Posted

Joh Lang from Langcaster guitars uses some kind of paua topped strap button type thingy-ma-jig on his newer guitars. I can't see why you couldn't use an actual strap button though. I'd clean it up a bit though, otherwise it would be a real string muncher.

Posted

I heard of someone using the old string ball ends with a screw through them. A lot smaller and easier to find real estate for them than strap buttons.

Posted (edited)

That is tuff. Low friction would be a must. I would imagine a roller of some sort, but it will be tricky to prevent binding. Why such a strong angle?

(I have a small piece of wood, with no room for tuners at the head, so I am trying to get them on the tail side of the guitar. I said that it was for the headstock, so that I wouldn't have to explain the set up. It always makes me give a big description of the design).

The tuners are very far apart. I want to line up the strings before they go onto the bridge. I am trying to see what I can use to guide the strings without binding them.

Having the tops of the tuners at the right height is another matter too.

The original design wasn't for the Steinberger's. I want to be true to the original design.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/MP63/IMG_1149.jpg

This is what I have come up with. I want to add tuners to the edge. That will require me to spread them out.

Originally, it was space that made the design choice. The wood was to short for tuners at the head.

Then, I thought, tuning as I was playing would be easier too. "Give it a go," I thought.

I've even contemplated using a stop tailpiece with Pro Tone studs, to align the strings.

The locking studs will keep the tailpiece from falling back. I'm not sure if the strings will bind with the tailpiece.

Edited by MP63
Posted

Ok, I just want to make sure of something. You plan to spread the tuners along the back of the guitar(not aligned as shown in the pic). Look at Babicz bridge design. Not exactly your situation, but may give you som ideas.click

Peace,Rich

Posted

Yes, that same idea.

The picture I have is with Steinberger tuners.

The space I have on this particular guitar is limited.

I want to use the six-in-line tuners that I originally planned on.

I didn't realize how narrow the wood I had was.

I drew the plans without knowing the exact size of wood I had.

I had it close to 25 years, in the storage.

I'm still trying to make it work.

Thanks for that link,

Mike

Posted

Yes, that same idea.

The picture I have is with Steinberger tuners.

The space I have on this particular guitar is limited.

I want to use the six-in-line tuners that I originally planned on.

I didn't realize how narrow the wood I had was.

I drew the plans without knowing the exact size of wood I had.

I had it close to 25 years, in the storage.

I'm still trying to make it work.

Thanks for that link,

Mike

The idea I wanted to point out in that link. Is the split bridge concept. Using a custom made piece like that (you could even laminate a graphite core between wood, and drill angled holes to re-direct the strings). You need to accomodate a proper angle from the TOM(possibly angle the base of the piece re-directing the strings) so that it clears. The big down side is wearing out the graphite, but it should be pretty long lasting and could be smoothed out if needed(there would be a little deflection that would be acceptable).

I dunno.... It is just a thought. I suppose some kind of flaired barrel insert could work also (again inserted in an angled base).

Peace,Rich

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Regarding Steinberger tuners, do you find that there needs to be lots of space for tuning?

Can I mount them as shown in the picture I have, or does there need to be more space?

I'm sure that the slack is taken out, so there isn't a need for multiple windings.

That's the nice part of having the tuners in-line for the bridge.

I got big fingers and won't mind the spce if it doen't need all the winding that regular tuners require.

Once I drill, there's no tuning back.

That's a bit intimidating.

Thanks for all your help guys,

Mike

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