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Posted

Hi guys, i was just wondering if someone could help me here:

Basically i want to make a bypass switch for use with my laptop because i've started using an effects processor software i got recently. It should go like this:

diagram.JPG

So the switch has to be a footswitch, not a toggle switch, but not a basic on/off one. It has to switch between the two leads, effectively bypassing the laptop and going straight to the amp when i want it to.

Would this work?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...S&doy=21m11

cheers,

bouli

Posted

That wouldn't work unless you plan to have your foot on the switch all the time. What you want is an on-on DPDT switch, not a momentary type. :D

So what Desopolis suggests would work yes? BTW, anyone use a setup like this at all? I really like some of the sounds the effects software gives me, and it's a hell of a lot cheaper than buying effects.

oh, and would i need to shield the enclosure (it's plastic), and do you guys think the switch would cause much distortion of the sound, or create much noise?

cheers.

Posted (edited)

yeah I didnt mention that the switch you posted was a hold down, not a locking SPDT.

Dunno, why not sheild it though? I definatly would the wires at least.

Im going to make one as a effect loop switch, that way I can have multiple stuff on at one time. Also my Loop pedal uses somthing similar to switch between patches.

Edited by Desopolis
Posted

cheers man, can't wait to build it and get it all running. at the moment i've been just plugging my guitar into my laptop, and using the speakers. I'll get an extra lead to run it through my amp, and then i'll make the switch at the weekend.

I'm studying engineering in college, and i was discussing it with a friend, and we got to a more complicated solution using transistors and other such elaborate devices. I knew it could be done much easier!

thanks again. :D

Posted

Yep, all you need is a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch (ie, a standard A/B box - this one looks pretty sturdy, and you'll only use half of it) - ground is common, and doesn't need to be switched. If (and only if) you have ground loop noise problems, you'll need an isolated output for the laptop, and an iso box between the laptop and the amp, but don't burn that bridge until you come to it. And not for nothin', but a plastic box that you step on has never sounded like a good idea to me - even my Mom's sewing machine had a metal foot controller. Maplins carries several metal enclosures that are ideal for small projects; this one is not very expensive, and it's probably big enough to get a switch and 3 jacks into without any problems.

Posted (edited)

An iso box (also called a ground lift) isolates the ground from one powered unit to another. Since any two pieces of equipment may have different potentials at their ground busses, the ground noise from one can be shifted into the audible range in another that has a slightly higher (or lower) potential at its ground bus. The solution is a transformer with a floating ground on the secondary or an opamp pair configured as a floating ground output.

Edited by lovekraft

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