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Fretting A Bound Fingerboard


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All the previous axes I have made had unbound Rosewood fingerboards as I couldn't be bothered with the hassle involved.

I am fast coming to the stage on My ES335 when I be ready to fret the neck. What I have done previously is to cut the fret wire with about 1/4" longer than slot, pre-bend them in radius block I have and tap them in unglued with a nylon faced hammer. I have had no problems getting frets to seat.

I made a copy of the Stew Mac neck rocker support and glued on some thick cork gasket material to the vee shaped face. It is very solid and gives a firm support for fretting or a good angle for general work or re-stringing etc and suits any guitar without damage to the neck.

I am assuming I will need to nip off the tang flush under the crown with a bit of clearance between binding faces to allow for shrinkage of neck. Angle filing the ends without damaging the bindings, what is the best solution for this? I looked at my friends PRS and the fret ends are about 1/32" inside binding edge.

Incidentally my binding is maple as I made the finger board to narrow so glued a 1/8" strip down either side. Looks awesome actually.

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Correct me if I'm wrong (I don't have any hands-on experience).

Slot fingerboard ~> Bind fingerboard ~> Nip fret ends flush ~> Press / hammer frets in ~> Bevel frets

For beveling, are you familiar with this tool? I think if you take your time you'll be able to get a precise job beveling with that tool, regardless of binding material. You can also use a single file and to it to your liking much more slowly. This will take a great deal of time, though.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...ling_Files.html

I personally haven't fretted a fingerboard yet, but I'll be giving three tries at it in the next week as I finally have all the supplies to do it, so I can give a better response then.

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