Jockson Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 I built a shooting board for a tablesaw for cutting the fret slots. I did one fretboard which I screwed up later. In the meantime, the table saw died on me so I got another, cheaper one. I modified the jig, installed it on the new table saw and cut the slots on another board. When I finished, I checked everything and all slots were cut perfectly parallel etc. however they are a tiny bit wider than before. I think this is because the new table saw isn't as "precise" (it probably "wobbles" a little) but the difference is very small. In the Koch book it says "The fret slots should ideally be of exactly the same width as the fretwire (without barb) or only marginally (by 0.1mm) less wide". I measured the slots and they are 0.05mm (1/500 of an inch) WIDER than the fretwire (without barb). I will use CA glue when installing the frets. Is this going to be a problem? I tried hammering (I will use an arbor press on the real fretboard) a fret in both the old and new board and it was harder to hammer the fret in and harder to pull it out on the old board. The fret on the new board was not loose by any means, it was just noticeably easier to pull it out. Is using this board a bad idea? Am I making a big deal out of nothing or should I just order a preslotted board (which I would hate considering the money i spent on the Stewmac blade and templates). Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 just use the glue and you will be fine...its a tricky issue but i would in this case probably try to use medium viscosity ca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cherokee6 Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Agreed; use the glue method and you'll be ok. There is another very recent thread about the same problem. The responders recommended Titebond and if any fill was needed, to use veneer slivers the same color/ type of wood as filler. I'm assuming your frets will hide some or all of the fret cutting issue. Check the thread out for further info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 .05mm is nothing; if the frets hold, they should go in fine without any glue. If anything, I'd use some titebond (yes, really). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 i think titebond is probably better than ca..i bet it is less messy to clean off the board...it'snot nearly as invasive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 (edited) It could be the blade or... Try traming the tablesaw. The blade is running sideways most likely. If so, it makes your saw very dangerous. I can lead to very nasty injurys from binding and kickback. Under the saw......if the saw is worth anything, there will be an asjustment nut to loosten the saw and arbour assembly. Build a shuttle that has a dial indicator that runs allong the side of the blade in the 3/4" slot on the table. Make sure the blade dials in at .001" or so along its length and tighten the blade/arbour assembly down. I'm sure there are tutorials about this on the web somewhere. Just make sure it is unplugged first, a no brainer but still should be said. Edited December 8, 2006 by GuitarGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockson Posted December 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 Titebond? Really? I never thought about using a wood glue for that job. That's even better cause I hate working with CA! GuitarGuy, thanks for the tips Now I've got another problem. Don't know should I post it in another topic as it's a different issue altogether but I'll try here first. The second board that I slotted has a beautiful wavy grain so I used the board in a way that it follows that grain the way I liked. Then I tapered the board and the actual grain pattern looks fine BUT when I look closely I can see the pores are going in a different direction (not straight with the board but at a slight angle) Here's an illustration of how I used the fingerboard blank: http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/3259/rguo9.jpg Was this another stupid idea and another board wasted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 Titebond? Really? I never thought about using a wood glue for that job. That's even better cause I hate working with CA! GuitarGuy, thanks for the tips Now I've got another problem. Don't know should I post it in another topic as it's a different issue altogether but I'll try here first. The second board that I slotted has a beautiful wavy grain so I used the board in a way that it follows that grain the way I liked. Then I tapered the board and the actual grain pattern looks fine BUT when I look closely I can see the pores are going in a different direction (not straight with the board but at a slight angle) Here's an illustration of how I used the fingerboard blank: http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/3259/rguo9.jpg Was this another stupid idea and another board wasted? As long as the fret slots are on target (or at least close enough..ahem), there's no reason not to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockson Posted December 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 Hehe, the fret slots are on target. I planned everything ahead and the fretboard looks just the way I wanted... at least it does when looking at more than 15-20 centimeters away. From close up, it looks very weird and I'm not satisfied with that at all. I can see the pores are not going straight with the board. I think I'm gonna give up trying to build a guitar. I already spent too much money on this thing (already wasted one body blank due to innacurate template, one neck blank because I messed up the headstock and now two fingerboard blanks) not to mention all the tools that I bought. I can't see myself ever finishing this guitar and being satisfied with it. I'm a perfectionist with no ability and skill to make things "perfect" and that's frustrating me to no end. Hats off to you guys who manage to finish your builds. I have to admit it did seem a little easier than it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 Hey man dont give up yet. My first guitars sucked to say the least. You get better and better the more you build. Just a point of advice. Use cheap wood the first few times. That way if you screw up its ok. And always test out a new procedure on said cheap wood. Easier on the pocket book and not so heartbreaking when you screw up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cherokee6 Posted December 18, 2006 Report Share Posted December 18, 2006 Use what you got. The board will be well sanded and only you'll notice the pore direction. If it feels fine in your hand it should be ok. Think you want to try an asymmetrical neck to go with that fingerboard?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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