ToWeR Posted December 20, 2006 Report Share Posted December 20, 2006 Hi all, I`m currently building a mahogany/spruce electric guitar. My question would be: Would tung oil tint my sitka spruce top? Or should I use tru-oil for a plain white spruce top? I guess there are no needs for a grain filler... I searched a bit but I didn`t find much on spruce... Thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted December 20, 2006 Report Share Posted December 20, 2006 I try to seal my Spruce with a wash coat of shellac. It will prevent other finishes from soaking into the wood. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 20, 2006 Report Share Posted December 20, 2006 As far as durability is concerned, I couldn't think of a worse combination than Spruce and Tung Oil, especially regular Tung Oil. And, AFAIK, all oils have -some- color to them. I have never seen a colorless oil. The 2 most colorless finishes I can think of are lacquer and bleached shellac. My best recommendation for your project would be to use bleached, dewaxed fresh shellac applied by French Polishing unless you have spray equipment, and if you're looking for an oil finish, I'm guessing you don't have spray equipment. Oils typically look amberish/brownish, regular shellac is more amberish/orange-brown. Shellac can be left satin, or can be wetsanded to a high gloss, shellac is a great product. There are pieces of furniture well past 100 years old that still have their shellac finish -completely- intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToWeR Posted December 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Thanks to you guys, I'm thinking of aplying shellac on the whole thing! .... On the back of the neck, will it be as smooth and satin as a tung oiled neck? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 You can make it that way, yes. Be SURE to buy bleached dewaxed fresh shellac flakes (unless you want the more standard orange-amber variety, just as easily secured) ...and make your own, that's the best way to guarantee freshness and the fact that it will dry properly, don't buy any shellac in a can, shellac has a shelf life, and most cans don't tell you when it was made or any expiration date. I'm sure there's a truckload of info on french polishing over at the MIMF if you need any assistance, they have a tremendous library of information over there, and many, many people who use shellac regularly. I've used shellac lots of times, but I spray it, so I can't help you with french polishing techniques, but I'm certain they can at the MIMF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToWeR Posted December 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 "bleached dewaxed fresh shellac flakes" Would this do? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...lac_Flakes.html Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 (edited) Here is a great site for getting the basics of French Polishing. It takes a bit of practice to get the loading and your speed correct. It is about as simple as a finish could be after you get used to the technique.Click Note; the biggest mistake you can make with shellac is applying it too thick(I mean as a final finish). If you want a hard long lasting shellac finish it needs to be rubbed down with a fair bit of pressure. The way you do that and get good burn in is all in how much shellac/alcohol/oil you load at a time . Peace,Rich Edited December 21, 2006 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Thank you for that link Rich, I had been thinking about trying a french polish finish myself over the wintertime months, great link, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Thank you for that link Rich, I had been thinking about trying a french polish finish myself over the wintertime months, great link, much appreciated. You would like the technique. It is a very skill/finess based finish. Right up your alley . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToWeR Posted December 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 (edited) Thanks Rich! complete site, exactly what I needed to give this project a go! Edited December 22, 2006 by ToWeR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 (edited) I am glad the link helped. A couple little things that helped me out; 1. Go to a second hand store andbuy an old wool sweater, and possibly the most worn out white T-shirts you can find(trust me the more worn down the better- makes for much smoother application). 2. Buy yourself three bottles with drip tips. I bought three from wood crafters. You will use them a lot. They are your control over your loading. 3. You will find that you need to get a good pattern that allows you to cover a lot of ground without passing over an area twice when you first place a freshly loaded munica. Make your first pass a complete loop around the outer edge of your guitar,then move in, but keep circling until you find the trail flashing correctly. Then you can cross your paths. 4. For sides. Take passes in one direction and sweep the cloth off each time. After you make three or so passes this way. Use a light load and use a circular pattern, but keep it moving! 5. Don't be afraid of oil(it is essential to making this work). add it to your loads until you have a slight sheen over the surface you are working. Then stop adding(no more is needed). Before you finsih each fresh load. work the surface until the sheen is back on the surface and smooth. When you are done with the session be sure to wipe the oil off(the surface should dull slightly). Then take a clean dry cloth and polish it back up a bit and end the session. Peace,Rich Edited December 22, 2006 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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